How to turn on the detection light in tanks. Various ways to connect one, two or more lamps. Types of lamps for home use

When the wiring in the apartment or house is already present and there is no need to connect additional light sources, then the question of how to connect the lamp is not relevant. But how to do this work when the need arises. Here you cannot do without elementary knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to draw up a principled, seemingly elementary diagram.

All light sources are fluorescent (housekeepers), incandescent lamps, LED lamps can be connected, as in principle, and all the resistances in the electrical circuit, in parallel, in series, mixed. The mixed connection is not used for connecting lamps, as it is simply not necessary. But on parallel and serial connection it is worth stopping your attention in more detail.

Series and parallel connection of two or more light sources

In order to connect the simplest incandescent light bulb, like, in principle, any other, you need to connect its one contact to the phase, and the other to zero, the most common AC voltage of 220 volts in the domestic conditions of the CIS countries.

Parallel connection of lighting devices implies the connection of two or more luminous flux sources in parallel, that is, some lamp contacts are connected only to the phase, and all others only to zero, as shown in Figure 1.

A current will pass through each light bulb, which will depend on its power, just as the brightness of the light flux emitted by them will also depend on the power of each lamp. Naturally, the current I will be equal to the sum of all three currents, therefore the cross-sectional diameter of the main conductors should be chosen according to it. This connection is considered the most common and acceptable, since it will be possible, if necessary, in the future, to add light sources to it and they will not affect those already installed.

With a series connection, shown in the figure, the current flowing through one light bulb will depend on the power of each light source, and the voltage across them will be divided by the number of lamps and at a given input voltage of 220 volts, it will be 110 volts at each light source.

Such a connection must be made with luminaires of equal power. This can be seen using the example of two incandescent lamps. Since if you connect one 20 Watt lamp, and another, for example, 200 Watt, then a lamp with a lower power will immediately fail, since the current will pass through it the same as in the second 200 Watt lamp, and this is 10 times its face value. This connection can be used to extend the service life of incandescent lamps, for example, in porches and stairwells. By connecting two lamps of 220 volts and a power of, for example, 60 watts each, they will burn half-heartedly and will last a very long time. It should be noted that this is only possible when incandescent lamps are connected. Serial connection of two or more LED lamps (luminaires) and economical lamps is impractical, since they already have a rather long service life.

Connecting a lamp to one switch or several

How to connect a lamp through a switch? The main nuance when connecting is that the neutral power wire is directly connected to the 220 volt network, and the phase is broken through the switch. This is done so that you can safely solve problems with the lamp holder by turning off only the switch. If two switches are connected in series, then only when both keys are pressed, the lamp will light up. Such types of connection of light switches are very rarely used, only under certain individual conditions.

More interesting is the connection of the so-called pass-through switch.

The essence of such a scheme for connecting one lamp is that the lamp can be turned on and off from both the first and the second switches, regardless of which position each of them is in. For example, it is convenient, for example, in a long corridor, when entering it, a person presses the switch key 2, and calmly walks through the illuminated room, reaching the end of the corridor, you do not need to return to turn off the light, but you can lightly press the switch 1 installed at the end corridor, turn off this light source. With this connection, the phase also passes through the switches.

Improving lighting by installing a motion sensor

The main function of installing a motion sensor and connecting it to the lighting system is to automatically turn on the lighting without pressing the light switch button. That is, a person entered the room or into the sensor triggering zone and the light turned on, after leaving the light turned off on its own (automatically). When choosing a motion sensor, you must first take into account the maximum power of the lighting lamps.

The connection diagram of the motion sensor also does not cause any particular difficulties. It can be installed with or without a switch. Simply when the switch contact is turned on, the motion sensor is removed from the lighting network, and the lighting device is turned on directly without a sensor.

In any case, when working with voltage, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements, in particular:

• check the presence and absence of voltage on current-carrying elements to which a person touches during installation;
• lighting power supplies must be locked;
• work with a serviceable tool.

Video about connecting lamps

Fluorescent lamps (LDS) are widely used to illuminate both large areas of public premises and as household light sources. The popularity of fluorescent lamps is largely due to their economic characteristics. Compared to incandescent lamps, this type of lamp has a high efficiency, increased luminous efficiency and a longer service life. However, the functional disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is the need for a starting starter or a special ballast (ballast). Accordingly, the task of starting the lamp in case of failure of the starter or in its absence is urgent and relevant.

The fundamental difference between LDS and an incandescent lamp is that the transformation of electricity into light occurs due to the flow of current through mercury vapor mixed with an inert gas in the bulb. The current begins to flow after gas breakdown by a high voltage applied to the lamp electrodes.

1. Throttle.
2. Lamp bulb.
3. Luminescent layer.
4. Starter contacts.
5. Starter electrodes.
6. Starter housing.
7. Bimetallic plate.
8. Lamp filaments.
9. Ultraviolet radiation.
10. Discharge current.

The resulting ultraviolet radiation lies in the part of the spectrum that is invisible to the human eye. To convert it into a visible luminous flux, the walls of the flask are covered with a special layer, a phosphor. By changing the composition of this layer, you can get different light shades.
Before the direct launch of the LDS, the electrodes at its ends are heated by the passage of current through them or due to the energy of a glow discharge.
A high breakdown voltage is provided by the ballast, which can be assembled according to a known traditional scheme or have a more complex design.

The principle of the starter

In fig. 1 shows a typical LDS connection with a starter S and a choke L. K1, K2 - lamp electrodes; C1 is a cosine capacitor, C2 is a filter capacitor. An indispensable element of such circuits is a choke (inductor) and a starter (breaker). As the latter, a neon lamp with bimetallic plates is often used. To improve the low power factor due to the presence of the inductance of the choke, an input capacitor is used (C1 in Fig. 1).

Figure: 1 Functional diagram of LDS connection

LDS startup phases are as follows:
1) Warming up the lamp electrodes. In this phase, the current flows through the circuit "Network - L - K1 - S - K2 - Network". In this mode, the starter starts to randomly close / open.
2) At the moment the circuit is broken by the starter S, the magnetic field energy stored in the choke L is applied in the form of a high voltage to the lamp electrodes. An electrical breakdown of gas occurs inside the lamp.
3) In breakdown mode, the resistance of the lamp is lower than the resistance of the starter branch. Therefore, the current flows along the circuit "Network - L - K1 - K2 - Network". In this phase, the choke L acts as a reactive current-limiting resistance.
Disadvantages of the traditional LDS start-up scheme: acoustic noise, flickering at a frequency of 100 Hz, increased start-up time, low efficiency.

The principle of operation of electronic ballasts

Electronic ballasts (ECGs) use the potential of modern power electronics and are more complex, but also more functional circuits. Such devices allow you to control the three phases of starting and adjust the luminous flux. This results in increased lamp life. Also, due to the supply of the lamp with a current of a higher frequency (20 ÷ 100 kHz), there is no visible flicker. A simplified diagram of one of the popular ECG topologies is shown in Fig. 2.

Figure: 2 Simplified electronic ballast circuit diagram
In fig. 2 D1-D4 - mains voltage rectifier, C - filter capacitor, T1-T4 - transistor bridge inverter with Tr transformer. The electronic ballast can optionally include an input filter, a power factor correction circuit, additional resonant chokes and capacitors.
A complete schematic diagram of one of the typical modern electronic ballasts is shown in Fig. 3.

Figure: 3 BIGLUZ electronic ballast diagram
The circuit (Fig. 3) contains the main above-named elements: a bridge diode rectifier, a filtering capacitor in the DC link (C4), an inverter in the form of two transistors with a strapping (Q1, R5, R1) and (Q2, R2, R3), choke L1, transformer with three terminals TR1, trigger circuit and resonant circuit of the lamp. Two transformer windings are used to turn on transistors, the third winding is part of the LDS resonant circuit.

Methods for starting LDS without a specialized ballast

If a fluorescent lamp fails, there are two possible reasons:
1) . In this case, it is sufficient to replace the starter. The same operation should be performed when the lamp flickers. In this case, upon visual inspection, there are no characteristic darkening on the LDS flask.
2). One of the electrode strands may have burned out. On visual inspection, darkening at the ends of the bulb may be noticeable. Here you can apply well-known startup schemes to continue the operation of the lamp even with burnt-out electrode filaments.
For an emergency start, the fluorescent light can be connected without a starter as shown below (fig. 4). Here the user acts as a starter. Contact S1 is closed for the entire period of lamp operation. S2 button closes for 1-2 seconds to ignite the lamp. When S2 opens, the voltage across it at the moment of ignition will be much higher than the mains voltage! Therefore, great care should be taken when working with such a circuit.

Figure: 4 Schematic diagram of starting LDS without starter
If you want to quickly ignite LDS with burnt filaments, then you need to assemble the circuit (Fig. 5).

Figure: 5 Schematic diagram of connecting an LDS with a burnt out filament
For a 7-11 W choke and a 20 W lamp, the nominal C1 is 1 μF with a voltage of 630 V. Capacitors with a lower rating should not be used.
Automatic schemes for starting LDS without a choke assume the use of an ordinary incandescent lamp as a current limiter. Such circuits, as a rule, are multipliers and supply the LDS with a direct current, which causes accelerated wear of one of the electrodes. However, we emphasize that such schemes allow for some time to launch even an LDS with burnt-out electrode filaments. A typical connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp without a choke is shown in Fig. 6.

Figure: 6. Block diagram of LDS connection without choke

Figure: 7 Voltage on the LDS connected according to the scheme (Fig. 6) before starting
As you can see in fig. 7, the voltage across the lamp at the time of start-up reaches 700 V in about 25 ms. A choke can be used instead of an HL1 incandescent lamp. Capacitors in the circuit fig. 6 should be selected within the range of 1 ÷ 20 μF with a voltage of at least 1000V. The diodes should be rated for a reverse voltage of 1000V and a current of 0.5 to 10 A, depending on the lamp power. For a 40 W lamp, diodes rated for 1 current will be sufficient.
Another version of the startup scheme is shown in Figure 8.

Figure: 8 Schematic diagram of a multiplier with two diodes
The parameters of the capacitors and diodes in the circuit in Fig. 8 are similar to those in fig. 6.
One of the options for using a low-voltage power supply is shown in Fig. 9. Based on this diagram (Fig. 9), you can assemble a wireless fluorescent lamp on a battery.

Figure: 9 Schematic diagram of LDS connection from a low-voltage power source
For the above circuit, it is necessary to wind a transformer with three windings on one core (ring). As a rule, the primary winding is wound first, then the main secondary (indicated in the diagram as III). Cooling must be provided for the transistor.

Conclusion

If the fluorescent light starter fails, emergency "manual" start or simple DC power circuits can be used. When using circuits based on voltage multipliers, it is possible to start a lamp without a choke using an incandescent lamp. Working on direct current, there is no flicker and noise of the LDS, however, the service life is reduced.
In the event of a burnout of one or two filaments of the cathodes of a fluorescent lamp, it can be continued to operate for some time, using the above-mentioned circuits with increased voltage.

Have you decided to lay electrical wiring in the new cottage with your own hands or upgrade the existing network in the apartment? Agree, there are nuances in this area that you should thoroughly understand for your own safety. In addition, an electrician created by his own hands is obliged to ensure the flawless operation of the devices.

We are ready to tell you in great detail how to connect a light bulb through a switch. In the implementation of such a solution, a number of proven techniques are used, which you will familiarize yourself with while reading the article.

Here you will find a lot of useful information. Possession of information will give you both confidence and strength. Graphic materials and videos will help you to thoroughly understand the issue.

Previously, before starting to carry out actions to install switches, lighting fixtures, connect them to each other and the network, it is necessary to de-energize the 220V power of that part of the home wiring where the electrical work is supposed to be performed.

Tool for work

In the process of performing electrical work, a home craftsman will need a set of the following assembly tool:

1. A sharp knife.
2. Pliers (pliers).
3. Side cutters.
4. Slotted screwdrivers thin and medium, possibly Phillips medium.

Electrical tape may be required to insulate the inside of the junction box or luminaire housing for wire connections. In these cases, it is recommended to use HB tape. Over time, it does not melt and does not stick to the constantly heated contacts isolated by it, but only dries up. If necessary, it crumbles well with pliers.

Before proceeding with the most simple installation, draw a wiring diagram for electrical appliances as it will be clear to you, and think over the procedure

It is great if there is a special cutter or wire cutter for stripping the insulation. In the absence of such devices and a large amount of work, you can get by with a folk remedy by modifying the side cutters.

To do this, opposite cuts are made in the cutting edges with a file in the cutting edges closer to the hinge, which together should form a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the bare wire core.

For new laying of household lighting networks, it is recommended to use VVGng cables with single-wire copper, 1.5 sq. Mm cross-section, in non-combustible insulation of unequal colors:

• blue - zero working,
• yellow with a green stripe along - zero protective (grounding),
• any other color - phase.

During installation, it is advisable to observe the combination of color uniformity with their functional purpose. This requirement will secure, as well as simplify further maintenance of the electrical wiring.

If the design of the device allows, inside the breaker itself, the phase wire is connected to the upper terminals, and all outgoing wires are connected to the lower contacts. This rule applies to the arrangement of any electrical installation.

Due to design features, pass-through and cross-over switches, which are discussed below, are an exception to the general rules.

Varieties of household switches

There is a wide variety of switches used in modern home interiors. He introduces in detail with the classification of light control devices posted on our website.

When choosing a home switch, pay more attention not to its design, but to functionality, strength of fasteners and reliability of electrical contacts

According to the difference in their functionality, the following most common varieties are distinguished:

1. One-key switch - its mission is simple: "on / off".
2. Two-key switch allows you to control two independent lighting circuits at the same time.
3. Three-key switch, accordingly, coordinates work in three directions.
4. Switch-regulator (dimmer) not only turns it on and off, but also by pressing a key or turning a round knob that replaces it, smoothly adjusts the brightness of the lamps.
5. Switch with regulator - two-, three-key switch, which stepwise, by switching keys, controls the glow of all bulbs at the same time.
6. Single pass-through switch. A single key switches the phase between the two wires. If voltage is applied to one, it is disconnected from the other, and vice versa.
7. Cross single switch. By changing the position of the key, it synchronously changes the direct connection of two lines to a cross.
8. Sensor switch. It has no levers - it starts and stops the supply of electricity by touching its surface with your fingers.

A switch with a motion sensor turns on the lamp automatically, reacting to a person passing by.

Types of lamps for home use

Lamp progress does not lag behind switches. Their diversity is also impressive.

When purchasing an energy-saving light bulb, you should focus on well-known brands - after all, it should not only be effective, but also serve as long as possible

But here, too, some more common types are determined:

1. Incandescent lamps - rooted home light sources in a rounded glass bulb with a vacuum and a tungsten coil inside.
2. Halogen lamps - the same incandescent lamps filled with a special gas. It increases the service life, minimizes the size of their flasks. Disadvantage - when installing, do not touch the glass of the bulb with your hands.
3. Fluorescent daylight lamps - not very common at home, but also traditional lighting devices (hereinafter simply "fluorescent lamps").
4. Energy-saving LED lamps, as the name suggests, use the glow of LED groups. Can be mounted in conventional screw-in sockets (hereinafter simply "LED lamps").

Energy-saving fluorescent bulbs are increasingly replacing the usual. The principle of operation is similar to that of fluorescent lamps. They are screwed in like incandescent lamps (hereinafter simply "energy-saving lamps").

Ways to power a light bulb through a switch

Perhaps some considered scheme of interconnecting a household switch to a wall or ceiling lamp will omit the details of supplying a zero protective (grounding) wire. It seems that its connection will not cause difficulties.

In a standard electrical cable, this is a core with yellow insulation and a green stripe along. The place of its connection to the electrical appliance is indicated by the sign.

# 1: The Simplest Light Connection

The most elementary is the on / off connection of the lighting fixture to the one-button switch with two wires. It is most suitable for a single single lamp luminaire.

When the old wiring has only two wires coming out of the ceiling or wall, and the rework is complicated, you can connect the lamp of more lamps. But with this connection, all the lamps in the lighting fixture will turn on at the same time.

It is easy to replace the classic one-button switch without upgrading the wiring with a dimmer switch made as a single unit. It is possible to purchase a device with a regulator like a key, or it is possible - in the form of a round handle.

The characteristics of the dimmer must correspond to the power of the connected lamp. The only thing is that it cannot be used in conjunction with lighting fixtures equipped with energy-saving, LED or fluorescent lamps.

For standard installation in conventional socket boxes, the industry has mastered the production of touch switches that have only "on / off" functions. They are also connected with two wires and can replace simple one-key ones.

# 2: separate switching on chandelier lamps

Usually three- and five-arm chandeliers are designed so that lamps can be connected separately or together in groups (1 + 2/2 + 1; 2 + 3/3 + 2). This allows you to regulate the illumination of the space by the number of simultaneously operating bulbs.

In this case, you will need a two-button switch and electrical wiring with at least three wires. Turning on one of two or both buttons at once will adjust the brightness of the lighting device.

It is also used to control from one point the lighting of two, most often adjacent, rooms independently, for example, a toilet and a bathroom, a hallway and a storeroom.

If, instead of the usual two-button switch, you use a two- or even three-button switch for the chandelier with separate regulators built into the keys, then all its lamps will burn at the same time, and you will be able to control their glow in steps, by switching keys.

# 3: control a five-arm chandelier

Where separate and simultaneous control of three independent lighting devices is required, a three-button switch is installed.

To surprise guests, you can connect a five-arm chandelier through a three-button switch. True, a small alteration will be required at the terminals of the lamp itself. From a group of three line wires, one must be disconnected and used independently.

Then, by various combinations of pressing the keys of the three-button switch, it will be possible to turn on simultaneously from one to five lamps (1 + 2 + 2/2 + 2 + 1/2 + 1 + 2).

# 4: Lamp - one, switch - two

What if the hallway is long and dark? This situation will be helped by installing a luminaire with two at once at different ends of the transition. The inconvenience of this method is the undefined position of the "on / off" keys.

Another technique for controlling the lighting is applicable when moving up the stairs, in an attached garage (entrance from the house, exit through the gate and vice versa). An additional switch near the sleeping area will not be overkill if the room is long enough.

Applying in practice non-standard luminaire connection diagrams, you should make sure of their expediency, as this increases the length of the wires and the complexity of installation (+)

Is it possible to illuminate staircases independently of each other, going up or down stairs? Additionally, you will need another single pass-through switch on the interfloor area. By pressing just one key, it will simultaneously turn on the next lamp and turn off the previous one.

# 5: turn on a light bulb from different locations

To control the luminaire from more than two centers, cross single switches are required in addition to the pass-through ones. Each new point - one at a time.

A lot of switches are convenient if living rooms overlook the large home hall. Inhabitants of any room can independently turn on the light at their doors, and turn it off in all other places equipped with auxiliary switches.

With the correct organization of the installation sites for additional switches, in addition to the convenience of using lighting, significant energy savings can be achieved

This method is also advisable in rooms with a hotel-type layout - there are many doors opening into a long corridor.

# 6: connect a chandelier with a fan

Pulling the hanging on a chandelier equipped with a fan makes it inconvenient to turn it on. It is also problematic when the ceiling is high.

It is easier to use the studied methods of separate connection of chandelier lamps. The fan is connected via one of the buttons of the two- or three-button switch.

In the first version, the lamp can only burn completely. In the second, the bulbs will be lit in two groups.

# 7: built-in motion sensors

By itself, it is already a switch device. But we are interested in it precisely when it has a standard case and can be mounted in a socket box.

It turns out that it is connected to the gap of the phase conductor going to the lamp as a conventional switch. But the problem is that for the internal electronic circuit of such a device, a full power supply of 220V is required, which means that one more wire, blue, is zero.

In accordance with the principles of connecting the luminaire, motion sensors are connected via a switch (1). If there is a need for periodic constant operation of the lamp, a switch (2) is included in the circuit. If one sensor cannot cover a large room, then several pieces are connected to the lamp. In this case, it is the sensors that play the role of a switch (3)

If you want to install a switch with a built-in motion sensor instead of a one-key switch, you cannot do without replacing the two-wire cable that runs to it from the branch box with a three-wire one.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The videos will show you how to work.

VIDEO # 1 will show an example of a simple switch and light connection:

VIDEO # 2 will help you master the skills of connecting and insulating wires:

VIDEO # 3 will tell you how to connect chandeliers and more:

Manufacturers are not marking time in one place. All new, more sophisticated lighting devices they come up with. But no matter how cosmic the lamp may seem, there is always an easy way to connect it. Basic diagrams, rules for connecting light bulbs to switches, conditions for the safe conduct of electrical work will remain typical for a long time.

The WoT light is a tank commander's skill called "Sixth Sense".

Light bulb in WoT - This is the skill of the tank commander called the "sixth sense". It lets you know when your tank was discovered. It works very simply, when your tank is detected, a light comes on. There are many types of light bulbs that can be found on the internet. You can also put a mod so that when the enemy detects you, the light does not just light up, but also be accompanied by a sound signal and burned for 10 seconds (approximately the flash time).

Necessity.
The "sixth sense" skill is necessary on almost all tanks in the game, except for the sau, since they usually stand in the bushes behind allied lines. Particular attention should be paid to tank destroyers that shoot from an ambush, or light tanks that passively shine on the enemy (from the bushes), or heavy and slow tanks which can be covered with a barrage of artillery fire, some tanks easily break through and almost always this one saves the player from the first shot the most skill. Experienced players sometimes even without a light bulb can understand that they have been spotted.

Example.

Consider the German premium tank destroyer E25. She has practically no armor, but she has a low silhouette, therefore, she has a good disguise, but this may not save her from an enemy projectile, since she can be spotted here, and the skill “sixth sense” E25 will simply change the position for a more profitable one.

The heavy tank Maus also needs this skill. Although he has a lot of armor, even though he can repel the shells of enemies with his powerful body, he can be killed while even remaining unnoticed, or even worse, enemy artillery can cover, and our light bulb can save us from this, warning in advance that the enemy has found us.

We understand the issue of installing the 6 sense light bulb mod.

The sixth sense is the tank commander's perk, which you should be the first to pump, since your "survivability" in battle largely depends on whether you know that your opponents can see you or not. And the lamp just helps to determine whether your tank is lit by a red dot on the minimap or not.

Attention! If the corresponding skill of the commander 6 sense is not fully pumped, the mods for changing the lamp will not work! Keep this in mind!

How to set 6 sense?

In fact, it doesn't take a lot of effort to put a light bulb on, since in my opinion this is the simplest mod for World of Tanks. There are three ways.

1) How to change a light bulb without XVM

The method is outdated and inconvenient, but still used by some modders. Installation is extremely simple and boils down to the fact that the downloaded archive with the mod must be placed in a special folder with the game:

World_of_Tanks / res_mods / 1.6.0.0

In such an archive, usually not pictures, but SWF files and folders that allow you to make animated lamps, new sounds, etc.

In most cases, one image of the lamp is enough, so let's move on to the second point.

2) How to put a light bulb in World of Tanks 1.6.0.0 using the XVM mod?

First you need to. You can just drop the folder from the archive into the game and not bother with its advanced functionality and complex config, since the basic things will work right away (including a simple replacement of the light bulb), and this is exactly what we need within the framework of this instruction.

Also, do not be afraid for your precious FPS, which will not suffer, again, if you only need XVM to install a lamp, do not turn on additional "heavy" mod features, such as an informative minimap (the most voracious element) and everything will be fine. Verified personally.

After installing the XVM mod, our new light bulb is located in the specified path: \\ World_of_Tanks \\ res_mods \\ mods \\ shared_resources \\ xvm \\ res.

Now we can drop any PNG image (!!!) there and the light bulb will work.

Important! The name of your lamp file must be SixthSense.png.When saving a new lamp in this folder, you must overwrite the old one (or delete first, then put the new image there).

This method is good in that you can use any image you like, even if your own photo and then the most pleasant and charming person on earth will notify you about the light

Preparing the image for the lamp

The easiest way is to download a ready-made picture. You can use it for this, but if this is not enough, then go to Google search in pictures and drive in the following phrases there:

• light bulb wot png
• sixth sense wot png
• and so on until you find what you like ...

You can try different queries, but the most important thing is to have " png"- this will give the search engine a command to search for pictures of this particular format and in 90% of cases they will be on a transparent background, which looks much more beautiful in the game.

But what if none of the lamp cards found fit?

Let's make a lamp ourselves, using the example of a sticker from Vkontakte in the form of a funny potato:

To get this image, the easiest way is to look at the Vkontakte item code. This can be done, for example, using the Firebug extension for all popular browsers. It takes a very long time to describe how to use it, so look for information on other sites.

See the code:

It follows that the image along this path is used http://vk.com/images/stickers/147/128.png , 128x128 pixels in size.

The following sizes are also available to us:

• http://vk.com/images/stickers/147/64.png - 64x64 pixels, suitable for small resolutions;
• http://vk.com/images/stickers/147/128.png - the ideal format is 128x128 pixels, for medium resolutions, it will suit most;
• http://vk.com/images/stickers/147/256.png - 256x256 pixels;
• http://vk.com/images/stickers/147/512.png - 512x512 pixels, I do not recommend using it, as it will overlap most of the screen.

You can already use these images as a lamp. To do this, save what you need to the folder \\ World_of_Tanks \\ res_mods \\ mods \\ shared_resources \\ xvm \\ resby renaming the file itself to SixthSense.png.

This is how it looks in the game:

But let's assume that our picture was not initially on a transparent background. What to do in this case?

You can do it yourself, having at hand a graphic editor, for example Photoshop (you can easily find a free version with a crack, dig on torrents).

1) Step one - open the image in Photoshop, click on the "Magic Wand" tool:

Then click on an empty area of \u200b\u200bthe image. It is worth noting here that it is much more convenient when the background of the picture is uniform, so that there is no interference with "smart" selection:

Then just remove the background by pressing the DELETE button on your keyboard:

Done, the picture can be saved as SixthSense.png.

If the background of the image was initially non-uniform, then you can cut out the desired part using the Lasso tool:

With its help, we simply outline the desired part of the image:

If in the process the hand twitched and you made a crooked selection, you can quickly reset it by pressing CTRL + D. It is also important to "close" the selection circle. After a few workouts, you can achieve the desired result.

If the lasso does not work, you can select the element using standard means (square or oval selection) and then "polish" with the eraser.

So, in the example above, the face of the Serb was highlighted. Now press:

1. CTRL + C - copy the selection to the clipboard.
2. CTRL + N - create a new empty file, click OK. The main thing here is that the background is transparent. Also, pay attention to the size of the new file - by default, the size of the selected fragment from the clipboard is taken, where we copied it in the first paragraph.
3. In the new file, press CTRL + V - paste our "clipping".

It should look like this:

Here you can already correct the edges with an eraser, add inscriptions, effects, and so on.

Finally, click the following - File\u003e Save for WEB:

In the window that appears on the right, select the PNG format and tick the Transparency box:

Save the file as SixthSense.png to folder \\ World_of_Tanks \\ res_mods \\ mods \\ shared_resources \\ xvm \\ res.