Self-propelled driver for 220V LEDs. LED driver circuits

DIY driver for LEDs: simple diagrams with description

To use LEDs for lighting purposes, you need a special driver. It may happen that the required driver is not at hand, and it is necessary to organize lighting, for example, in a car, or to test the LED for the brightness of the glow. With this option you can create a driver for LEDs with your own hands.

How to create a driver for LEDs

The diagrams below contain the most extensive elements that can be added to any radio store. When folded, no special equipment is required - all necessary tools are widely available. Although unimportant at this point, with a careful approach to the device, they will last for a long time and will not give in to commercialism.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to get a self-produced driver, you will need:

• Soldering iron pressure 25-40 W. It is possible to increase the thickness, but this increases the risk of overheating of the elements and their failure. It is best to use a soldering iron with a ceramic heating element and an unburnt tip, because... It’s especially important that it quickly oxidizes and has to be cleaned.
• Flux for soldering (rosin, glycerin, FKET, etc.). It is important to use a neutral flux as opposed to active fluxes (orthophosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride, etc.), which does not oxidize contacts and is less toxic. Regardless of the vicorized flux after removing the device, it is better to remove it with alcohol. For active fluxes this procedure is intensive, for neutral ones it is a lesser procedure.
• Solder. The most widely used is the low-melting tin-lead solder POS-61. Lead-free solders are less fragile when inhaling vapors during soldering hours, but have a higher melting point with lower fluidity and resistance to weld degradation over hours.
• Small pliers for bending nuts.
• Scrubbers or side strips for biting long ends of wires and wires.
• Installation of darts in insulation. High-density copper particles with a wedge of 0.35 to 1 mm2 are best suited.
• Multimeter for monitoring voltage at knot points.
• Electrical tape or heat-burning tube.
• The prototype board for sklotekstolite is small. It will be sufficient if the size is 60x40 mm.

Development board made of textolite for easy installation

Driver circuit for 1 W LED

One of the simplest schemes for reviving a light-emitting diode is presented below:

Apparently, there are only 4 elements in front of the LED: 2 transistors and 2 resistors.

The role of regulator of the flow that passes through the LED here is played by a strong field-effect n-channel transistor VT2. Resistor R2 determines the maximum flow that passes through the LED, and also acts as a flow sensor for transistor VT1 in the gate junction.

The greater the flow passes through VT2, the greater the voltage drops on R2, which is why VT1 opens and reduces the voltage on the gate of VT2, thereby changing the flow of the LED. In this way, the output stream is stabilized.

The life of the circuit operates with a constant voltage of 9 - 12, a voltage of at least 500 mA. The input voltage is at least 1-2 V higher than the voltage drop on the LED.

Resistor R2 is responsible for a voltage of 1-2 W, due to the necessary supply voltage. Transistor VT2 - n-channel, power supply not less than 500 mA: IRF530, IRFZ48, IRFZ44N. VT1 - any low-pressure bipolar npn: 2N3904, 2N5088, 2N2222, BC547, etc. R1 – tension 0.125 – 0.25 W with reference 100 kOhm.

Due to the small number of elements, folding can be carried out by hanging installation:

Another simple driver circuit based on a linear ceramic voltage stabilizer LM317:

Here the input voltage can be up to 35 V. The resistance of the resistor can be decomposed using the following formula:

de I is the power of the stream in amperes.

This circuit on LM317 will have a significant voltage difference with a great difference between the voltage and voltage drops on the LED. It will have to be placed on a small radiator. The resistor is also rated for a voltage of less than 2 W.

This scheme can be seen in more detail in the following video:

Here it is shown how to connect a high-voltage LED, vikorist batteries with a voltage of about 8 V. If the voltage drop on the LED is close to 6 V, the difference is small, and the microcircuit does not heat up much, so you can do without it Iator.

Please note that with the great difference between voltage and voltage on LEDs, it is necessary to install the microcircuit on heat dissipation.

Driver circuit with PWM input

Below is a diagram for energizing the voltage LEDs:

Wake driver for dual comparator LM393. The circuit itself is a buck-converter, which is a pulse step-down converter of voltage.

Driver features

• Live voltage: 5 - 24 V, constant;
• Output power: up to 1 A, regulation;
• Output power: 18 W;
• Protection from short circuit after exit;
• It is possible to control the brightness with the help of an external PWM signal (you will see how to regulate the brightness of the LED strip through a dimer).

The principle of dii

Resistor R1 with diode D1 creates a reference voltage of approximately 0.7, which is further regulated by variable resistor VR1. Resistors R10 and R11 serve as sensors for the comparator. As soon as the voltage on them is moved, the comparator will close, thus closing the pair of transistors Q1 and Q2, and they, in their own way, close the transistor Q3. However, inductor L1 at this moment does not indicate the passage of the flow, so the flow continues until the voltage on R10 and R11 becomes less than the reference one, and the comparator again does not drive transistor Q3.

The Q1 and Q2 pair acts as a buffer between the comparator output and the gate of Q3. This protects the circuit from softening applications through targeting on the Q3 gate, which stabilizes its operation.

Another part of the comparator (IC1 2/2) is used for additional brightness control using additional PWM. For which the signal is supplied to the PWM input: when logical TTL levels (+5 and 0 V) ​​are supplied, the circuit will open and close Q3. The maximum frequency of the signal at the PWM input is close to 2 KHz. This input can also be used to conceal and install the device behind an additional remote control.

D3 is a Schottky diode, power supply up to 1 A. If it is not possible to determine the Schottky diode itself, you can use a pulsed diode, for example FR107, otherwise the voltage will be further reduced.

The maximum output stream is adjusted by selecting R2 and turning R11 on or off. So you can remove the following values:

• 350 mA (LED voltage 1 W): R2=10K, R11 closed,
• 700 mA (3 W): R2=10K, R11 connections, nominal 1 Ohm,
• 1A (5W): R2 = 2.7 K, R11 connections, nominal 1 Ohm.

At certain intervals, regulation is carried out using a variable resistor and a PWM signal.

Folding and customizing the driver

The driver components are mounted on a breadboard. The LM393 microcircuit is installed first, then the smallest components: capacitors, resistors, diodes. Then a transistor is installed, and the remaining one is a replacement resistor.

Place the elements on the board in such a way as to minimize the distance between the pins that are connected, and to remove less wires as a jumper.

When connecting, it is important to follow the polarity of diode connection and transistor pinout, as can be found in the technical description for these components. Also, you can check the support using a multimeter in the dimming mode: for direct devices, the values ​​will show about 500-600 Ohms.

To liven up the circuit, you can use an external DC voltage 5-24 or batteries. 6F22 (“crown”) batteries also have a very small capacity, so they don’t last long when the LEDs are pressed too hard.

After collection, it is necessary to soften the output stream. For this purpose, LEDs are soldered to the output, and motor VR1 is installed at the very bottom of the position diagram (checked with a multimeter in dialing mode). Next, a live voltage is supplied to the input, and the wrappings of the VR1 handle receive the necessary brightness of the light.

List of elements:

Visnovok

The first two circuits considered are very simple to prepare, but they do not provide short-circuit protection and may result in low CCD. For long-term use, the third scheme on LM393 is recommended, since these shortcomings are reduced and there is greater possibility of adjusting the output voltage.

ledno.ru

220V LED driver circuit

The advantages of the light-colored paws were seen more than once. The great number of positive effects of LED lighting makes you think about the power of Illich light bulbs. Everything would be bad, but if you get to the calculation of re-equipping an apartment with daylight lighting, the numbers will be a little strained.

To replace the original 75W lamp, you need one 15W LED bulb, and you need to replace a dozen such lamps. For the average cost of about 10 dollars per lamp, the budget is decent, but it is still not possible to turn off the risk of adding a Chinese “clone” with a life cycle of 2-3 years. There are many people who see the possibility of independently producing these devices.

The theory of life of 220V LED lamps

The best budget option you can choose with your own hands is from such LEDs. A dozen of these little ones sell for less than a dollar, and the brightness comes from a 75W broiler lamp. Taking everything together is not a problem, but if you don’t connect them all in between, you’ll burn out. The heart of any LED lamp is the driver of life. Leave it there for as long as the light bulb is bright.

To select a 220 volt LED lamp with your own hands, let’s look at the life driver circuit.

The parameters of the network significantly exceed the consumption of the LED. In order for the LED to work as a circuit, it is necessary to change the amplitude of the voltage, the strength of the current, and change the voltage change to a constant state.

Why use a voltage divider with a resistor and an amnestic voltage and a stabilizer?

LED lamp components

The circuit of a 220 volt LED lamp uses a minimum number of available components.

• LEDs 3.3V 1W - 12 pcs.;
• ceramic capacitor 0.27 µF 400-500V - 1 pc.;
• resistor 500kOhm - 1Mohm 0.5 - 1W - 1 pcs.t;
• 100V diode – 4 pcs.;
• electrolytic capacitors 330 µF and 100 µF 16V 1 pc.;
• voltage stabilizer for 12V L7812 or similar – 1 pc.

Making a 220V LED driver with your own hands

The 220 volt LED driver circuit is nothing more than a pulse life block.

As a self-contained light-emitting diode driver in the 220V range, we will consider the simplest pulse power supply unit without galvanic isolation. The main advantage of such schemes is simplicity and reliability. But be careful when folded, the fragments of such a circuit do not have any interconnection along the string, which is possible. The LEDs will pick up their respective amperes, and if you touch the bare wires with your hand, the current will flow up to ten amperes, and such a shock to the current will be even more noticeable.

The simplest driver circuit for 220V LEDs consists of three main stages:

• Voltage distributor on the main support;
• this place;
• voltage stabilization cascade.

The first stage is based on capacitor C1 and a resistor. The resistor is necessary for the self-discharge of the capacitor and the circuit itself flows into the robot. Its rating is not particularly critical and can range from 100 kOhm to 1 Mohm with a load of 0.5-1 W. The capacitor is generally non-electrolytic at 400-500V (effective amplitude voltage limit).

When a voltage is passed through the capacitor, the current passes until the plates are charged. The less capacity it has, the faster it needs to be recharged. With a capacity of 0.3-0.4 µF, the charging hour is set to 1/10 of the voltage boost period. To put it simply, less than a tenth of the voltage that is needed will pass through the capacitor.

Another cascade is one place. It converts the changeable voltage into a permanent one. After removing most of the voltage from the capacitor at the output of the diode bridge, approximately 20-24 V DC current is removed.

The third cascade is a filter that smoothes and stabilizes.

The capacitor from the same bridge performs the function of a voltage collector. When you change the voltage at the output of the diode bridge, the amplitude itself changes.

To smooth out the voltage pulsation, an electrolytic capacitor is connected in parallel to the lancet. There is a lot of room to lie under the pressure of our desire.

In the driver circuit, the supply voltage for the LEDs does not need to exceed 12V. As a stabilizer, you can use the expansion element L7812.

The selected 220-volt light-LED lamp circuit begins to work immediately, but before turning it on, carefully insulate all exposed parts and solder the circuit elements.

Driver option without struma stabilizer

The system has no driver circuits for LEDs in the 220V circuit, which does not interfere with the stabilizers.

The problem with any transformerless driver is the pulsation of the output voltage, and therefore the brightness of the LEDs. A capacitor installed after the diode bridge often overcomes this problem, but does not resolve it.

There will be pulsation on the diodes with an amplitude of 2-3V. If we install a 12V stabilizer into the circuit, the amplitude of the input voltage will be higher than the voltage range due to ripple regulation.

Voltage diagram for a circuit without a stabilizer

Diagram of the circuit with stabilizer

Therefore, the driver for LED lamps, assembled with your own hands, due to the level of pulsation, is not available in similar units of expensive factory-made lamps.

As you know, when picking up the driver with your own hands, do not become particularly foldable. Variable parameters of the circuit elements allow us to vary the value of the output signal at intervals.

If you have an urgent need, based on such circuits, to select a 220-volt LED spotlight circuit, it is better to recycle the output stage under a 24V voltage with a similar stabilizer, leaving the output stage L7812 1.2A, which limits the voltage to 10W. For thicker lighting circuits, it is necessary to either increase the number of output cascades, or increase the thicker stabilizer with output stream to 5A and install it on the radiator.

svetodiodinfo.ru

How to select a LED driver

The best way to connect up to 220V, 12V is to use a power supply stabilizer or LED driver. In my opinion, the enemy is spelled “led driver”. Once you have added enough moisture to the banana, you can easily find similar products on Aliexpress or Ebay.

• 1. Features of the Chinese
• 2. Service term
• 3. LED driver for 220V
• 4. RGB driver 220V
• 5. Module for collecting
• 6. Driver for LED lamps
• 7. Life block for LED striping
• 8. DIY LED driver
• 9. Low voltage
• 10. Brightness regulation

Features of the Chinese

There are plenty of people to love to buy at the largest Chinese bazaar, Aliexpress. The prices and assortment are pleasing. LED drivers are most often chosen due to their low output and good characteristics.

However, with the increased exchange rate of the dollar, it became impossible to buy from the Chinese, the exchange rate was comparable to the Russian one, with which there was a guarantee and the possibility of exchange. For cheap electronics, the characteristics are always protected. For example, if a pressure of 50 W is specified, the shortest period has a maximum short-hour pressure, and not a constant one. The nominal value will be 35W – 40W.

Before that, save a lot on the beginning to reduce the price. There are no elements needed to ensure stable work. Get the cheapest components, with a short service life and low cost, so the price is very high. As a rule, components are produced within the limits of their parameters, without reserve.

If the publisher is not indicated, then you do not need to be certified for your content and write about your product. And the same product is produced in a number of factories with different configurations. For good viruses, a brand may be important, so they are not afraid to testify for the quality of their products.

One of the best is the MeanWell brand, which values ​​the quality of its products and does not release junk.

Service lines

Like any electronic device, the LED driver has a service life that depends on its operation. Branded daily LEDs already last up to 50-100 thousand years, so they need to go well sooner.

Classification:

1. shirvzhitok up to 20,000 hours;
2. average brightness up to 50,000 years;
3. up to 70,000 a year. Dzherelo life on bright Japanese components.

This indicator is important when planning the investment for a long-term perspective. For the butcher's koristuvannya, she makes shirvzhitka. If you want to pay money sparingly, LED spotlights and lamps work wonders.

LED driver 220V

Current LED drivers are structurally connected to a PWM controller, which can stabilize the stream very well.

Main parameters:

1. nominal tension;
2. working strum;
3. number of LEDs that can be connected;
4. tension coefficient;
5. Stabilizer CCD.

Housings for outdoor vikorstan are made of metal or plastic. When the case is made of aluminum, it can act as a cooling system for the electronic filling. This is especially important when filling the body with compound.

On the label it is often indicated how many LEDs can be connected and to what voltage. This value may not be less fixed, but it can be seen in the range. For example, you can connect 12220 LEDs from 4 to 7 pieces of 1W each. This lies in the design of the electrical circuits of the LED driver.

RGB driver for 220V

Tri-color RGB LEDs are differentiated from single-color LEDs to accommodate crystals of different colors of red, blue, and green in one housing. To apply them to the skin color, it is necessary to apply the cream. Some of the pages for which the RGB controller and the life block are used.

Since the RGB LED intensity is 50W, this is suitable for all 3 colors. To find out about the approximate effect on the skin canal, divide 50W by 3 and subtract approximately 17W.

The range of LED drivers is 1W, 3W, 5W, 10W.

Remote control panels (RC) come in 2 types. With infrared TV, like watching TV. When using a radio channel, the remote control does not need to be directed to the receiving signal.

Module for collecting

If you want to use an LED driver to build a LED spotlight or lamp with your own hands, you can use the LED driver without a housing.

If you have a stabilizer for light-emitting diodes, which is not suitable for the strength of the light, then it can be increased or changed. Find the PWM controller microcircuit on the board, which contains the characteristics of the LED driver. It is marked with markings, so you need to know the specifications for it. The documentation will indicate a typical connection diagram. The value of the output stream is set by one or several resistors connected to the bottom of the microcircuits. If you change the value of the resistors or install a replacement support in accordance with the specification information, you can change the string. You just can’t over-exaggerate the cob’s tightness, otherwise things may go wrong.

Driver for LED lamps

Before purchasing street lighting equipment, there are other benefits. When designing street lighting, it is ensured that the LED driver will work in areas ranging from -40° to +40° in dry and damp air.

The pulsation coefficient for luminaires may be higher, even if the area is located in the middle. For street lighting, this display becomes important.

When operating outdoors, the life unit must be completely sealed. There are a number of ways to protect against the loss of water:

1. filling all parts with sealant or compound;
2. selection of a block from vikoristannya silicone gorges;
3. placing the LED driver board in the same volume as the LEDs.

The maximum level of protection is IP68, designated as Waterproof LED Driver or waterproof electronic led driver. The Chinese have a guarantee of waterproofness.

In response to my practice of statements, the jealousy of vologi and the saw does not always correspond to the real. In some places, deformities may not be available. Please note that when the cable is inserted and removed from the housing, there will be leaks from the opening that is not sealed with sealant in any other way. Water can flow through the cable into the housing and then evaporate into the new housing. This will lead to corrosion on the board and exposed parts of the wires. This is a short term for the service of a spotlight or lamp.

Living block for LED striping

The LED strip operates on a different principle; it requires a stabilized voltage. The pressure resistor is installed on the line itself. This simplifies the connection process, you can add sections as little as 3cm to 100m.

Therefore, power supply for the light-emitting diode strip can be generated from any 12V power supply unit of consumer electronics.

Main parameters:

1. number of volts at the output;
2. nominal tension;
3. Step zakhistu v vologi ta pili
4. tension coefficient.

DIY LED driver

The simplest driver can be made with your own hands for 30 hours, assuming you don’t know the basics of electronics. Depending on the voltage, you can use the power supply unit for consumer electronics with a voltage of 12 to 37V. Particularly suitable is the power supply unit of a laptop, which has 18 - 19V and a power rating of 50W to 90W.

A minimum of details are required, everything is shown in the image. A radiator for cooling the light-emitting diode can be installed in the computer. Suddenly, in your everyday life, you end up with sawed old spare parts from the system unit. The best choice is the processor.

To find out the rating of the required support, use the struma stabilizer rating calculator for LM317.

First you need to work with a 50W LED driver with your own hands, and then try a little bit, for example, in a LED lamp. If your light bulb is faulty, or if there is a fault with the diodes, then you can check the driver for it.

Low voltage

Let’s take a look at the types of low-voltage LED drivers that operate at voltages up to 40 volts. Our Chinese brothers wisely demonstrate the endless options. On the basis of PWM controllers, voltage stabilizers and power stabilizers are rotated. The main feature of the module with the possibility of stabilizing the flow on the board is that there are 2-3 blue regulators in the form of changeable resistors.

The technical characteristics of each module indicate the parameters of the PWM microcircuits for which type of collection. For example, the old and popular LM2596, according to its specifications, can handle up to 3 Amperes. Without a radiator, it only draws less than 1 Ampere.

A larger current option with a reduced CCD is the PWM controller XL4015, rated for 5A. A miniature refrigeration system can handle 2.5A.

If you already have high powered LEDs, you will need an LED driver for your LED lights. Two radiators cool the Schottky diode and the XL4015 microcircuit. This configuration is designed to operate up to 5A with a voltage of up to 35V. It is important that without working in boundary modes, it is important to increase its reliability and operating conditions.

If you have a small lamp or a small spotlight, you will need a miniature voltage stabilizer with a capacity of up to 1.5A. Input voltage from 5 to 23V, output up to 17V.

Brightness regulation

To regulate the brightness of the LED, you can use compact LED dimers that have recently appeared. If this pressure is not enough, you can install a larger dimmer. Ensure that they operate in two ranges at 12V and 24V.

You can use the infrared radio remote control (DC). They cost 100 rubles for a simple model and 200 rubles for a model with a remote control. Basically, such remote controls are used for single lines at 12V. Ale Yogo can easily be placed before a low-voltage driver.

The wash can be analog in the appearance of the handle that turns, or digital in the appearance of the buttons.

led-obzor.ru

LED driver

Let's take a look at the simple and inexpensive high-pressure LED driver. The circuit has a constant flow, which means that it preserves the brightness of the LEDs regardless of how you use it. If you need a resistor when connecting a string of small, high-voltage LEDs, then a special circuit is required to power up one watt. So, let's live with the LED better, without the help of a resistor. The LED driver is ideal especially for high-pressure LEDs, and can be used for any number of configurations, with any type of life. As a test project, we took a 1 watt LED element. You can easily change the driver elements to a different one with darker LEDs, for different types of life - power supply, batteries, etc.

Technical characteristics of the LED driver:

Input voltage: 2V to 18V - output voltage: 0.5 less than the lower input voltage (0.5V drop on the field-effect transistor) - flow: 20 amperes

Details on the diagram:

R2: approximately 100 ohm resistor

R3: resistor is selected

Q2: small NPN transistor (2N5088BU)

Q1: Great N-channel transistor (FQP50N06L)

LED: Luxeon 1-watt LXHL-MWEC

Other driver elements:

Like the Dzherelo Vikoristano transformer-adapter, you can Vikoristan batteries. For the life of one LED, 4 - 6 volts is enough. The main thing is that this scheme is simple, because you can use a wide range of life-giving tools, and you will always have the same light. The radiator is not required, the fragments flow close to 200 mA flow. If you plan to have a larger volume, it is necessary to install the LED element and transistor Q1 on the radiator.

Vibration support R3

The LED strum is installed after R3, it is approximately the same: 0.5/R3

The voltage across the resistor is approximately: 0.25 / R3

In this case, the power supply is 225 mA with the help of R3 at 2.2 ohms. R3 has a voltage of 0.1 W, so a standard 0.25 W resistor is suitable. Transistor Q1 operates up to 18 V. If you want more, you need to change the model. Without heatsinks, the FQP50N06L can dissipate only about 0.5 W - which is enough for a 200 mA source with a 3-volt difference between the power supply and the LED.

Functions of transistors on the circuit:

Q1 is used as a replacement resistor. Q2 is used as a strut sensor, and R3 is a setting resistor that causes Q2 to close as the struts move. The transistor creates a feedback loop that continuously adjusts the flow parameters of the stream and trims it exactly to the specified value.

This board circuit is simple, so there is no sense in installing it on another board. Simply connect the components using hanging mounting.

Forum on food supply of various LEDs

elwo.ru

Drivers for LED light bulbs.

A small laboratory on the topic “Which driver is better?” Electronic chi on capacitors as a ballast? I think that leather has its niche. I will try to look at all the pros and cons of these and other schemes. I’ll give you the formula for rotating ballast drivers. Maybe, who cares? I will focus my attention on a simple principle. I'll take a look at the drivers on the capacitors as ballast first. Then I’ll marvel at their electronic brothers-in-arms. Well, finally, the new version. Now let's get down to business. We take a standard Chinese light bulb. Axis її diagram (a little polished). Why are you thorough? This diagram will go to any cheap Chinese light bulb. The power will be lower in the ratings of radio components and in the presence of any supports (with savings).
There are light bulbs with daily C2 (very rarely, but sometimes). Such light bulbs have a pulsation coefficient of 100%. It's very rare to use R4. If you want to use the R4, it's simply a must. This will replace the prisoner, and also soften the launcher. If the diagram has a day, it’s better to put it. The light through the LED indicates the nominal capacity of C1. Depending on what kind of fluid you want to pass through the light-emitting diode (for suicide), you can extract its capacity using formula (1).
I have written this formula many times. I repeat. Formula (2) allows you to develop a soft sore. With this help, you can turn on the light through the LEDs, and then dim the light bulb without touching the Wattmeter. To determine the voltage, we also need to know the voltage drop on the LEDs. You can measure it with a voltmeter, or you can just measure it (without a voltmeter). It's easy to calculate. The LED behaves in the circuit as a zener diode with voltage stabilization of close to 3V (not to blame, but even more rarely). When the LEDs are connected in series, the voltage drop is equal to the number of LEDs multiplied by 3V (if there are 5 LEDs, then 15V, if 10 - 30V, etc. ). It's simple. It turns out that the circuits for collecting light-emitting diodes have a number of parallels. Then you will need to supply more than enough light-emitting diodes in one parallel. Let's say we want to build a light bulb with ten 5730smd LEDs. According to the passport data, the maximum flow is 150mA. We turn on a 100mA light bulb. There will be a reserve of tension. Using formula (1) we can calculate: C=3.18*100/(220-30)=1.67 µF. Such volumes of industry are not allowed in the Chinese legend. We take the closest hand (we have 1.5 μF) and overshoot according to formula (2). (220-30) * 1.5 / 3.18 = 90mA. 90mA * 30V = 2.7W. This is the dimness of the light bulb. It's simple. Life is often stressful, but not rich. Everything should be kept in line with the actual voltage in the margin (the first minus of the driver), the exact capacity of the ballast, the voltage drop on the LEDs, etc. Using additional formula (2), you can calculate the voltage of the purchased light bulbs (having already guessed). The voltage drops on R2 and R4 can be adjusted, but not significantly. You can sequentially connect more than enough LEDs, otherwise the voltage drop will not exceed half the voltage of the circuit (110V). When the voltage is too high, the light bulb reacts strongly to all voltage changes. The more I feel, the more I react (my friend). Tim more, between positions and boundaries the formula works inaccurately. Definitely not going to resell it anymore. The axis has appeared as a great plus for these drivers. The intensity of the light bulb can be adjusted to the desired result by selecting the capacity C1 (both self-made and purchased). Ale appeared immediately and another minus. The circuit does not have galvanic isolation from the grid. As soon as you touch a screwed-in light bulb with a screw-in indicator, it will show the presence of the phase. Torcati with his hands (a light bulb is included in the frame) is categorically fenced off. Such a driver has practically 100% CCD. Spend more on the diodes and two supports. Yogo can be prepared using a stretch of pіvgodini (shvidko). Putting the board together is not necessary. Capacitors qi:aliexpress.com/snapshot/310648391.html aliexpress.com/snapshot/310648393.html Diode axis qi:aliexpress.com/snapshot/6008595825.html

Aside from these schemes, another serious shortcoming looms. This is pulsation. Pulsation with a frequency of 100 Hz, the result of straightening the boundary voltage.
Some light bulbs have slightly different shapes. Place everything in the volume of the container that is being filtered, C2. The greater the capacity, the less hump, the less pulsation. It is necessary to marvel at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that pulsations with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. There is also a formula for rozrakhunku (addendum P). Ale is not all. It is necessary to marvel at the Sanitary Standards SNiP 23-05-95 “Natural and artificial lighting.” Depending on the placement, the maximum permissible pulsation is 10 to 20%. Nothing like this happens in life. The result of the simplicity and low cost of light bulbs is obvious. It's time to move on to electronic drivers. Not everything is so gloomy here. The axis is the driver I have planned. I took a look at this on the cob.
Why did you wash yourself like this? Let me explain. I would like to “kolgospit” lamps with 1-3W LEDs. Choosing price and characteristics. Change the bi driver to 3-4 LEDs with a power supply up to 700mA. The driver must have a key transistor in its stock, which allows the chip to be activated by the driver. To change the HF pulsation, a capacitor is placed after the output. The first minus. The quality of such drivers (US $13.75 /10 pieces) varies to a greater extent than ballast ones. Ale vidrazu plus. Stabilization flow of such drivers is 300mA, 600mA and higher. Ballast drivers would never dream of doing this (I don’t recommend over 200mA). Let's look at the seller's specifications: ac85-265v" that everyday household appliances." load after 10-15v; can drive 3-4 3w led lamp beads series 600maA axis range of output voltages is small (also minus). A maximum of five LEDs can be supplied in succession. At the same time, you can pay as much as possible. The same light intensity is taken into account by the formula: Driver flow multiplied by the voltage drop on the LEDs [number of LEDs (from three to five) and multiplied by the voltage drop on the LED ody (close to 3V)]. Another shortcoming of these drivers is the large HF problems. Some copies can hear FM radio, but they lose reception of digital TV channels during their operation. The conversion frequency becomes several tens of kHz. And the axis is protected, as a rule, by no means (as a result of a miscode).
Under the transformer go to the “screen” switch. May change changes. This driver itself does not interfere with the background. Why the stink, it becomes clear when you look at the voltage oscillogram on the LEDs. Without capacitors the yalinka is much more serious!
At the driver output, it is not only the electrolyte that is responsible, but also the ceramics for suppressing the RF transcode. Hanging out my thought. Call it worth or else. Guess what, you don’t have anything to worry about. This is what happens with cheap light bulbs. Driver of claims in the middle, making a claim will be difficult. Let's admire the diagram. Ale ahead, I know. We have added only the basic elements that we need for creativity (to understand “what’s up”).

Abduction in rozrakhunki є. Before speech, on other efforts, the device also adapts. And now let’s start feeling the pulsations (a theory at first glance). We wonder why our eyes are open. I connect a photodiode to the oscilloscope. Two pictures combined with one for ease of reference. The left light bulb is out. On the right - the light is on. Divimosya GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that pulsations with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. And ours is close to 100Hz. Unsightly for the eyes.
I got 20%. It is necessary to marvel at the Sanitary Standards SNiP 23-05-95 “Natural and artificial lighting.” Vikoristov can be used, but not in the bedroom. And I see the corridor. You can SNIP and not be surprised. And now there is another option for connecting LEDs. This is the connection diagram to the electronic driver.
3 parallels of 4 LEDs at a time. The axis shows the Wattmeter. 7.1W active effort.
You'll be amazed at how much LED light is burned. Connect an ammeter and a voltmeter to the driver output.
Let's feel the light tension for a day. P = 0.49 A * 12.1 V = 5.93 W. Everything that doesn't work when you take the driver. Now we’ll wonder why our eye is open. The left light bulb is out. On the right - the light is on. The pulse repetition frequency is close to 100 kHz. Divimosya GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that poor health has no pulsation with a frequency of up to 300 Hz. And ours is close to 100 kHz. Not easy on the eyes.

Having looked at everything, I died. Now I see the pros and cons of these schemes: The disadvantages of a light bulb with a capacitor acting as a ballast are equal to electronic drivers. -During the hour of work, it is categorically impossible to touch the elements of the circuits, there is a stink under the phase. -It is impossible to reach high levels of light from the LEDs, because In this case, capacitors of large sizes are required. And the increased capacity leads to great starting flows that the chemicals are buzzing about. -Great pulsations of the light flow with a frequency of 100 Hz, generating large filtering capacities at the output. The advantages of a light bulb with a capacitor and the role of a ballast are matched with electronic drivers. + The scheme is very simple and does not require any special skills during preparation. +The output voltage range is simply fantastic. One and the same driver can be used with one or forty sequentially connected LEDs. Electronic drivers have output voltages within a wide range. + Low output of such drivers, which is literally due to the output of two capacitors and a diode bridge. + You can prepare it yourself. Most details can be found in barns or garages (old TVs, etc.). +You can regulate the flow through the LED by selecting the ballast capacity. +Indispensable as the first light source, like the first step in mastered light illumination. One more point that can be added to both the pluses and minuses. When using similar circuits with backlit circuits, the light bulbs are illuminated. Especially for me, more quickly plus, less minus. Vikoristova is everywhere like chergove (nіchne) illumination. I don’t write here which drivers are more beautiful, each one has its own niche. I know as much as I can about everything I know. Showing all the pros and cons of these schemes. And choose how to work for you in the first place. I tried my best to help. That's all! Good luck to everyone.

mysku.ru

How to choose a LED driver - types of main characteristics

LEDs have become very popular. The main role is played by the light-emitting diode driver, which promotes a constant output string of great value. We can say that this device is a core for LED devices. Such a driver, working simultaneously with a light-emitting diode, will ensure long service life and reliable brightness. Analysis of the characteristics of these types of devices allows us to understand how to select functions and how to select them correctly.

What is the driver's purpose?

The driver for LEDs is an electronic device, at the output of which a constant current is created after stabilization. It is not the tension that is created, but the force itself. Devices that stabilize voltage are called life blocks. The output voltage is indicated on the housing. Living blocks 12 are assembled for the living of LED lines, LED strips and modules.

The main parameter of the LED driver that can ensure a happy hour when playing is the output line. How to achieve this should be based on the light-emitting diode or by combining similar elements.

The driver for the LED requires you to live under a voltage of 220 V. In most surges, the range of the operating output voltage becomes three volts and can reach several tens of volts. To connect up to six 3W LEDs, you need a driver with an output voltage of 9 to 21 V, rated at 780 mA. With its versatility, it has a small CCD, so you can turn on the minimum intensity.

When lighting in cars, headlights of bicycles, motorcycles, mopeds, etc., portable lights are equipped with constant voltage, the value of which varies from 9 to 36 V. You may not install the driver for LEDs with slight tension, but in such episodes It will be necessary to insert a positive resistor in the voltage supply of 220 V. Regardless of the fact that this element is used in household devices, connect the LED to a voltage of 220 V and check for reliability up to It's problematic.

Main features

Tightness, as the construction of the building gives under pressure, is an important indicator. Don’t overdo it, trying to achieve maximum results. As a result of such actions, drivers for LEDs or the LED elements themselves may go out of tune.

The electronic filling of the device is poured for a variety of reasons:

• class zakhistu apparatus;
• elemental warehouse, which is ready for collection;
• input and output parameters;
• brand of virobnik.

The production of current drivers depends on the use of microcircuits with high-speed pulse-width switching technology, which includes pulse switching circuits that stabilize the flow. PWM converters are powered by 220 V, have a high level of protection against short circuits, overvoltage, and also high CCD.

Technical characteristics

Before adding LEDs, please read the characteristics of the device. Before them there are the following parameters:

• tension, as you can see;
• voltage output;
• nominal strum.

LED driver connection diagram

The output voltage is supplied by the connection circuit to the life-saving device, the number of LEDs. The value of the current is proportional to the intensity of the diodes and the brightness of their circulation. The LED driver must supply as much power to the LEDs as is required to ensure consistent brightness. Please remember that the tension of the necessary device is due to all the LEDs. It can be explained using the following formula:

P(led) – intensity of one LED element;

n – number of LED elements.

To ensure proper and stable operation of the driver, ensure that the tension reserve of the device is 20–30% of the nominal value.

Afterwards, the color of the workman is restored, and a drop in tension flows into the fragments. Different colors have different meanings.

Term of attribution

Light-emitting diode drivers, like all electronics, are subject to critical service conditions, which greatly affect operating minds. LED elements manufactured by well-known brands are insured for up to 100 thousand years, which is much more than the cost of life. Depending on the type of insurance, the driver can be classified into three types:

• low-capacity, with a lifespan of up to 20 thousand years;
• with average parameters – up to 50 thousand years;
• transforms what is made up of component brands – up to 70 thousand years.

Most people don’t know, but they have to pay attention to this parameter. This is needed to select a device for dry vikoristan and further repayment. For residential premises, the first category will be used (up to 20 thousand years).

What is the vibration driver?

There are several types of drivers available for LED lighting. Most of the presented products are manufactured in China and do not contain the required vigor, but are seen in the low price range. If you need a good driver, it’s better not to chase the cheapness of the Chinese manufacturer, since their characteristics do not always deviate from the statements, and they rarely come with a guarantee. It is possible that the switch on the microcircuits will quickly come out of the device, but it may not be possible to exchange a more clear vibration and turn the tables.

The most commonly purchased option is a packageless driver that runs on 220 V or 12 V. Various modifications allow you to use them for one or more LEDs. These devices can be selected to organize research in the laboratory or conduct experiments. For phyto-lamps and daily storage, select drivers for LEDs, which are located in the case. Unframed devices benefit from the price plan, but play in aesthetics, safety and reliability.

Types of drivers

Devices that contribute to the life of LEDs can be divided into:

• impulse;
• linear.

Pulse-type devices vibrate at the outputs of high-frequency stream pulses and operate on the PWM principle, their efficiency reaches up to 95%. Pulse transformers have one small voltage fault - during the hour of operation, strong electromagnetic disturbances occur. To ensure a stable output stream, a linear driver installs a stream generator, which plays a role in the output. Such devices have a low efficiency factor (up to 80%), but are technically simple and inexpensive to construct. Such devices cannot be used for companions of great difficulty.

You can get a new product from an over-reinforced product so that you can choose the LEDs carefully. The butt can be a fluorescent lamp, which supplies the light, exceeding the norm by 20%. Its characteristics practically will not change, and the usefulness of the LED will change many times.

lampagid.ru

Connection diagrams for LEDs up to 220V and 12V

Let's look at ways to turn on medium-voltage LEDs to the most popular ratings of 5V, 12 volts, 220V. Then they can be adjusted using the selected colors, signal level indicators, soft switching on and off. I have been planning to make a smooth piece of fabric for a long time in order to complete the order of the day. Moreover, emulation of the light allows you to throw away much more quickly and easily.

To connect LEDs up to 12 and 220V, read the previous article, looking at all the methods from simple to simple, from expensive to cheap.

• 1. Types of circuits
• 2. Designations on the diagram
• 3. Connecting the LED to 220V, diagram
• 4. Connection to constant voltage
• 5. The simplest low-voltage driver
• 6. Drivers from 5V to 30V
• 7. Turn on 1 diode
• 8. Parallel connections
• 9. Serial connection
• 10. RGB LED connections
• 11. Turn on COB diodes
• 12. Connecting SMD5050 to 3 chips
• 13. LED strip 12V SMD5630
• 14. LED strip RGB 12V SMD5050

Types of schemes

The connection diagram for LEDs is of two types, depending on the life cycle:

1. LED driver with stabilized speaker;
2. life block with stabilized voltage.

The first option has a special device that can stabilize the flow, for example, 300 mA. The number of LED diodes that are connected is limited by only a certain amount of pressure. Resistor (opir) is not required.

The other option has a stable voltage. The diode has even less internal support, so if you turn it on without changing the Ampere, it will burn out. To turn it on, you need to switch the flow-interchange resistor. The size of the resistor for the LED can be calculated using a special calculator.

The insurance calculator has 4 parameters:

• voltage reduction with one LED;
• nominal working strum;
• the number of LEDs in Lanciusi;
• the number of volts at the output of the life block.

If you choose inexpensive LED elements manufactured in China, then, above all, they will have a wide variety of parameters. Therefore, the real value of the ampere of the lancug will be distorted and it will be necessary to adjust the installed support. To check how wide the range of parameters is, you need to combine everything one by one. We turn on the life of the LEDs and then reduce the voltage until the ice lights up. If the characteristics vary greatly, some of the LED will be bright, some will be dark.

If this leads to the fact that there will be tension on the electric elements of the electric lancet, then the stench will be more intense. Thus, heating will be increased, degradation will be increased, and reliability will be reduced.

Designations on the diagram

To indicate on the diagram, two symbols are displayed with pictographs. Two parallel arrows indicate that you should shine so much that you can’t see the number of rabbits in your eyes.

LED connection up to 220V, diagram

To connect up to 220 volts, you need a driver, which is a stabilized power source.

The driver circuit for LEDs comes in two types:

1. simple on a capacitor to extinguish;
2. full value with high quality stabilizer microcircuits;

Selecting a driver on a capacitor is very simple; a minimum of parts is required. The voltage of 220V decreases the voltage of the high-voltage capacitor, which then straightens and slightly stabilizes. There is a strong preference for cheap light-LED lamps. The main disadvantage is the high level of light pulsation, which is bad for health. However, individually, the actions of this person are not noted. It is also easy to design a circuit based on the characteristics of the electronic components.

A full-fledged circuit with a variety of specialized microcircuits will ensure the highest stability at the driver output. If the driver handles the pressure well, the ripple factor will be no more than 10%, and ideally 0%. To avoid disturbing the driver with your own hands, you can take it from a faulty light bulb or lamp, since the problem was not with them.

If you have a less suitable stabilizer, or the strength of the stream is less or greater, then they can be adjusted with a minimum of force. Find the technical characteristics of the microcircuit from the driver. Most often, the number of amperes at the output is set by a resistor or a number of resistors that are available from the microcircuit. By adding more support to them or removing one of them, you can remove the necessary power of the struma. It is impossible to over-exaggerate the indicated tension.

Connection to constant voltage

1. 3.7V – batteries for phones;
2. 5V - USB charger;
3. 12V - car, cigarette lighter, consumer electronics, computer;
4. 19B - Blocks for laptops, netbooks, monoblocks.

The simplest low voltage driver

The simplest circuit stabilizer for light-emitting diodes consists of a linear microcircuit LM317 or analogues. The output of such stabilizers can range from 0.1 to 5A. The main shortcomings are low CCD and higher heating. This is compensated by the maximum simplicity of preparation.

Input up to 37V, up to 1.5 Amperes for the housing shown in the picture.

To expand the support that sets the working strum, use the stabilizer strum calculator on LM317 for LEDs.

Drivers from 5V to 30V

Since you regularly rely on any consumer equipment, then to turn it on, it is better to use the low-voltage driver. The stench moves up and down. Change the feed line from 1.5V to 5V so that the LED light works. Step-down from 10V-30V, split the lower one, for example 15V.

A wide range of products are sold from the Chinese, the low-voltage driver is divided into two regulators of a simple Volt stabilizer.

The actual tension of such a stabilizer will be low, meaning less. In the module parameters, write the characteristics of the microcircuits and not all structures. Considering the cost of a large radiator, such a module has a capacity of 70% - 80% of the standard one. If there is no radiator, then 25% - 35%.

Particularly popular models are based on the LM2596, which have already aged well due to their low efficiency. If the stench gets very hot, then without a cooling system, do not turn it over 1 Ampere.

More effective XL4015, XL4005, KKD are richer. Without cooling the radiator, turn it up to 2.5A. There are even miniature models on the MP1584 measuring 22mm by 17mm.

Turning on 1 diode

The most commonly used are 12 volts, 220 volts and 5V. In this manner, be careful to lightly switch on the 220V wall-mounted switches. Standard factory vehicles most often have a neon lamp installed.

Parallel connection

When connected in parallel, it is necessary to connect a resistor to the next circuit of the diodes in order to achieve maximum reliability. Another option is to place one strong support on the LED splint. However, when one LED comes out, the output on the others will increase. In general, it will be higher than the nominal or specified value, which will significantly shorten the service life and increase heating.

The rationality of the stagnation of the skin method is to recover from the virobu.

Serial connection

Serial connections with a live power supply of 220V are made using filament diodes and LED strips at 220 volts. In a long lanyard with 60-70 LEDs, 3V drops on the skin, which allows you to go directly to high voltage. Additionally, you only need to straighten the struma to remove the plus and minus.

This is how it works with any lighting technology:

1. LED lamps for home;
2. led lamps;
3. new garlands for 220V;
4. Light lines at 220

Lamps for the home usually have up to 20 LEDs that are switched on in a row, and their voltage output is close to 60V. The maximum quantity is found in Chinese corn bulbs, from 30 to 120 LED pieces. Kukuruji does not have a dry flask, so the electrical contacts up to 180V are completely open.

Be careful if you are using a long-lasting lanyard, because they are always grounded. My friend scooped up the corn with his bare hands and then tasted the corn kernels from the rotten drains.

RGB LED connections

Low-power tricolor RGB LEDs are made up of three independent crystals located in one housing. If 3 crystals (red, green, blue) are soaked at the same time, then a white light is released.

Skin color treatment is performed independently of other RGB controllers. The control unit has programs and manual modes ready.

Turning on COB diodes

The connection schemes are the same as for single-crystal and tricolor LEDs SMD5050, SMD 5630, SMD 5730. Single output, instead of 1 turn-on phase, the next circuit from several crystals.

Heavy-duty light-emitting diode matrices hang in their warehouse without crystals, connected in series and in parallel. Therefore, food requires 9 to 40 volts to keep under pressure.

Connecting SMD5050 to 3 chips

The type of primary diodes SMD5050 consists of 3 white light crystals, that is 6 legs. Then there are three SMD2835, which are divided into these crystals.

When connected in parallel with one resistor, the reliability will be lower. If one of the crystals goes out of tune, the strength of the strum increases after 2 that are lost. This is to bring to the quick vigoryanya the quiet ones who have lost it.

When vicorising the surrounding area, the support for the skin crystal does not shrink much at all. In this case, the number of resistors that need to be resisted increases by 3 times, and the LED connection circuit becomes more complex. That’s why it’s not a good idea to use light-colored lines and lamps.

LED strip 12V SMD5630

The starting point for connecting the LED to 12 volts is one LED line. It consists of sections of 3 diodes and 1 resistor, connected in series. Therefore, they can only be cut at the designated places between these sections.

LED strip RGB 12V SMD5050

In RGB, there are three colors, each color is painted around, and a resistor is installed for each color. You can cut it at the indicated place so that each section has 3 SMD5050 and can be connected to 12 volts.

led-obzor.ru Connection diagrams for sockets and vimikachiv

LED driver circuits

A small laboratory on the topic “Which driver is better?” Electronic chi on capacitors as a ballast? I think that leather has its niche. I will try to look at all the pros and cons of these and other schemes. I’ll give you the formula for rotating ballast drivers. Maybe, who cares?

I will focus my attention on a simple principle. I'll take a look at the drivers on the capacitors as ballast first. Then I’ll marvel at their electronic brothers-in-arms. Well, finally, the new version.
Now let's get down to business.
We take a standard Chinese light bulb. Axis її diagram (a little polished). Why are you thorough? This diagram will go to any cheap Chinese light bulb. The power will be lower in the ratings of radio components and in the presence of any supports (with savings).


There are light bulbs with daily C2 (very rarely, but sometimes). Such light bulbs have a pulsation coefficient of 100%. It's very rare to use R4. If you want to use the R4, it's simply a must. This will replace the prisoner, and also soften the launcher. If the diagram has a day, it’s better to put it. The light through the LED indicates the nominal capacity of C1. Depending on what kind of fluid you want to pass through the light-emitting diode (for suicide), you can extract its capacity using formula (1).


I have written this formula many times. I repeat.
Formula (2) allows you to develop a soft sore. With this help, you can turn on the light through the LEDs, and then dim the light bulb without touching the Wattmeter. To determine the voltage, we also need to know the voltage drop on the LEDs. You can measure it with a voltmeter, or you can just measure it (without a voltmeter). It's easy to calculate. The LED behaves in the circuit as a zener diode with voltage stabilization of close to 3V (not to blame, but even more rarely). When the LEDs are connected in series, the voltage drop is equal to the number of LEDs multiplied by 3V (if there are 5 LEDs, then 15V, if 10 - 30V, etc. ). It's simple. It turns out that the circuits for collecting light-emitting diodes have a number of parallels. Then you will need to supply more than enough light-emitting diodes in one parallel.
Let's say we want to build a light bulb with ten 5730smd LEDs. According to the passport data, the maximum flow is 150mA. We turn on a 100mA light bulb. There will be a reserve of tension. Using formula (1) we can calculate: C=3.18*100/(220-30)=1.67 µF. Such volumes of industry are not allowed in the Chinese legend. We take the closest hand (we have 1.5 μF) and overshoot according to formula (2).
(220-30) * 1.5 / 3.18 = 90mA. 90mA * 30V = 2.7W. This is the dimness of the light bulb. It's simple. Life is often stressful, but not rich. Everything should be kept in line with the actual voltage in the margin (the first minus of the driver), the exact capacity of the ballast, the voltage drop on the LEDs, etc. Using additional formula (2), you can calculate the voltage of the purchased light bulbs (having already guessed). The voltage drops on R2 and R4 can be adjusted, but not significantly. You can sequentially connect more than enough LEDs, otherwise the voltage drop will not exceed half the voltage of the circuit (110V). When the voltage is too high, the light bulb reacts strongly to all voltage changes. The more I feel, the more I react (my friend). Tim more, between positions and boundaries the formula works inaccurately. Definitely not going to resell it anymore.
The axis has appeared as a great plus for these drivers. The intensity of the light bulb can be adjusted to the desired result by selecting the capacity C1 (both self-made and purchased). Ale appeared immediately and another minus. The circuit does not have galvanic isolation from the grid. As soon as you touch a screwed-in light bulb with a screw-in indicator, it will show the presence of the phase. Torcati with his hands (a light bulb is included in the frame) is categorically fenced off.
Such a driver has practically 100% CCD. Spend more on the diodes and two supports.
Yogo can be prepared using a stretch of pіvgodini (shvidko). Putting the board together is not necessary.
Capacitors stated:


Diode axis:





Aside from these schemes, another serious shortcoming looms. This is pulsation. Pulsation with a frequency of 100 Hz, the result of straightening the boundary voltage.


Some light bulbs have slightly different shapes. Place everything in the volume of the container that is being filtered, C2. The greater the capacity, the less hump, the less pulsation. It is necessary to marvel at GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that pulsations with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. There is also a formula for rozrakhunku (addendum P).

Ale is not all. It is necessary to marvel at the Sanitary Standards SNiP 23-05-95 “Natural and artificial lighting.” Depending on the placement, the maximum permissible pulsation is 10 to 20%.
Nothing like this happens in life. The result of the simplicity and low cost of light bulbs is obvious.
It's time to move on to electronic drivers. Not everything is so gloomy here.
The axis is the driver I have planned. I took a look at this on the cob.


Why did you wash yourself like this? Let me explain. I would like to “kolgospit” lamps with 1-3W LEDs. Choosing price and characteristics. Change the bi driver to 3-4 LEDs with a power supply up to 700mA. The driver must have a key transistor in its stock, which allows the chip to be activated by the driver. To change the HF pulsation, a capacitor is placed after the output. The first minus. The quality of such drivers (US $13.75 /10 pieces) varies to a greater extent than ballast ones. Ale vidrazu plus. Stabilization flow of such drivers is 300mA, 600mA and higher. Ballast drivers would never dream of doing this (I don’t recommend over 200mA).
Let's look at the seller's characteristics:

ac85-265v", what are today's household appliances."
load after 10-15v; can drive 3-4 3w led lamp beads series
600ma

And the axis range of output voltages is small (also minus). A maximum of five LEDs can be supplied in succession. At the same time, you can pay as much as possible. The same light intensity is taken into account by the formula: Driver flow multiplied by the voltage drop on the LEDs [number of LEDs (from three to five) and multiplied by the voltage drop on the LED ody (close to 3V)].
Another shortcoming of these drivers is the large HF problems. Some copies can hear FM radio, but they lose reception of digital TV channels during their operation. The conversion frequency becomes several tens of kHz. And the axis is protected, as a rule, by no means (as a result of a miscode).


Under the transformer go to the “screen” switch. May change changes. This driver itself does not interfere with the background.
Why the stink, it becomes clear when you look at the voltage oscillogram on the LEDs. Without capacitors the yalinka is much more serious!


At the driver output, it is not only the electrolyte that is responsible, but also the ceramics for suppressing the RF transcode. Hanging out my thought. Call it worth or else. Guess what, you don’t have anything to worry about. This is what happens with cheap light bulbs. Driver of claims in the middle, making a claim will be difficult.
Let's admire the diagram. Ale ahead, I know. We have added only the basic elements that we need for creativity (to understand “what’s up”).

Abduction in rozrakhunki є. Before speech, on other efforts, the device also adapts.
And now let’s start feeling the pulsations (a theory at first glance). We wonder why our eyes are open. I connect a photodiode to the oscilloscope. Two pictures combined with one for ease of reference. The left light bulb is out. On the right - the light is on. Divimosya GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that pulsations with a frequency of up to 300 Hz are harmful to health. And ours is close to 100Hz. Unsightly for the eyes.


I got 20%. It is necessary to marvel at the Sanitary Standards SNiP 23-05-95 “Natural and artificial lighting.” Vikoristov can be used, but not in the bedroom. And I see the corridor. You can SNIP and not be surprised.
And now there is another option for connecting LEDs. This is the connection diagram to the electronic driver.


3 parallels of 4 LEDs at a time.
The axis shows the Wattmeter. 7.1W active effort.


You'll be amazed at how much LED light is burned. Connect an ammeter and a voltmeter to the driver output.


Let's feel the light tension for a day. P = 0.49 A * 12.1 V = 5.93 W. Everything that doesn't work when you take the driver.
Now we’ll wonder why our eye is open. The left light bulb is out. On the right - the light is on. The pulse repetition frequency is close to 100 kHz. Divimosya GOST R 54945-2012. And there it is written in black and white that poor health has no pulsation with a frequency of up to 300 Hz. And ours is close to 100 kHz. Not easy on the eyes.

Having looked at everything, I died.
Now I’ll summarize the pros and cons of these schemes:
The minus light bulb has a capacitor and the role of ballast is matched with electronic drivers.
-During the hour of work, it is categorically impossible to touch the elements of the circuits, there is a stink under the phase.
-It is impossible to reach high levels of light from the LEDs, because In this case, capacitors of large sizes are required. And the increased capacity leads to great starting flows that the chemicals are buzzing about.
-Great pulsations of the light flow with a frequency of 100 Hz generate large filtering capacities at the output.
The advantages of light bulbs with a capacitor and the role of ballast are equal to electronic drivers.
+ The scheme is very simple and does not require any special skills during preparation.
+The output voltage range is simply fantastic. One and the same driver can be used with one or forty sequentially connected LEDs. Electronic drivers have output voltages within a wide range.
+ Low output of such drivers, which is literally due to the output of two capacitors and a diode bridge.
+ You can prepare it yourself. Most details can be found in barns or garages (old TVs, etc.).
+You can regulate the flow through the LED by selecting the ballast capacity.
+Indispensable as the first light source, like the first step in mastered light illumination.
One more point that can be added to both the pluses and minuses. When using similar circuits with backlit circuits, the light bulbs are illuminated. Especially for me, more quickly plus, less minus. Vikoristova is everywhere like chergove (nіchne) illumination.
I don’t write here which drivers are more beautiful, each one has its own niche.
I know as much as I can about everything I know. Showing all the pros and cons of these schemes. And choose how to work for you in the first place. I tried my best to help.
That's all!
Good luck to everyone.

I plan to buy +70 Dodati in attire Look around worthy +68 +157

For uninterrupted operation, LED lamps require a power supply that is connected to the limit. This is called the driver for the LED lamp. The driver disables this function because... This is the purpose of life, the task of which is to stabilize the strum and tension within the limits. How can I select the correct driver? You need to pay attention to the output parameters: the flow parameter (in Amperes) and the voltage parameter (in Volts). Another parameter is the tension of the attachment (W). Drivers are usually selected with a reserve of tension and in a different range of output voltage and, therefore, pay attention to the characteristics of the stabilization of the flow. Otherwise, the luminaire must be disposed of or sent for repair.

The driver also contains the following characteristics:

• pulsation rate;
• electrical safety and in.

The characteristics of the LED indicate light flow.

Driver selection

The choice of driver largely determines the location where the lamp is planned to be installed.

For example, in a warehouse, for a lamp you need a driver with an operating temperature of more than 0°C and a humidity level of IP 20. If you have a bright office or other administrative premises, you will need to people and high light levels are required, then in this case it is necessary to take up respect and pulsation coefficient: he is not guilty for 5%. Between the input voltages lie in specific minds. For example, if a large amount of tension is installed in the area, or it is necessary to keep it tight, then the voltage drop will be moderate. Whose situation will require additional life from a universal entrance.

The voltage in office applications is stable, and the standard input voltage range is more than sufficient. However, in any case, the LED lamp will require a power factor corrector, since the additional power is higher than the threshold of 25 watts. These are models covered for internal lighting. These lamp models are PLD-40 and PLD-60. Their pulsation coefficient is no more than 20%, which means that they are suitable for lightening areas that cannot be brightly lightened. Drivers of such models are protected against short circuits and overheating, and may also be susceptible to electromagnetic disturbances. Thus, the butts of the PLD-40 and PLD-60 models demonstrated to us wonderful reliability for standard lamps without dimming control.

How to get drivers in place depending on the purpose of the lamp:

• If the lamp is installed for external lighting, then the main benefit for its driver is a wide range of temperatures that can be tolerated, guaranteeing efficient operation after hard work in the cold.

Until then, it will be necessary to restore the value of the corps. Because the street lamp provides absolute protection against any aggressive liquids, such as sawdust, brood, chemical vapors, water (water protection is IP 65). The cooling components of the lamp are also not to blame for being sealed.

The lifeline unit (in addition to being guilty of theft in this manner) is liable to supply a wide range of input voltages through those whose lifelines are no longer stable. There is no risk of damage due to voltage surges.

• If a lamp is installed to illuminate roads, streets, subways, then the driver of such a lamp is responsible for its vibration resistance. It uses a compound that is poured into the life blocks, which prevents vibrations from being absorbed. In another case, the elements simply fall out of the board at the first vibration attack.

The components of the driver contain all the parameters and capabilities of the lamp. Some of them are as important as pulsation level, operating temperature range, resistance to voltage surges, temperature range. Why is the quality of the components used so important? Apparently, the LED lamp itself is a very reliable lighting device that improves durability. However, you cannot go through the entire term of service if you do not go to the proper level before choosing a driver for LED lamps. Even the main reason for the failure of the lamp is the LED, which is not burnt out, but a bad driver. You yourself will have to carry a lamp for repairs.

The complete set of the lamp as you choose it

The original LED lamp includes several elements:

• LED;
• frame;
• heat transfer;
• radiator;
• driver.

If the kit is standard, how can you select a lamp so that your installed driver will last longer?

As we have already explained, a driver is required to stabilize the light that runs on 1 Watt LEDs.

In order for the LEDs to work properly, the voltage must be reduced. The lamp has a number of parameters that must be taken into account when choosing the optimal driver. Let's talk about them in the report:

• Tension. The maximum tension of the driver shows the maximum tension in the driver. For example, the label says (30x36)x1W, which means that you can connect 30 or 36 LEDs with a power of 1 Watt to this driver. As we are talking about connecting the light strip to 12-24 Volts, ensure that it is intended for them to be separated by voltage, and not at all by power.

Therefore, we must respect the tightness of the connection connected to the living unit. In this situation, the tension of the driver is usually not due to the tension of the lance, otherwise the life block will simply “burn out”.

• Nominal parameters of flow and voltage. This parameter is indicated by the transmitter on all LEDs, obviously, and the driver must be selected using this icon. The maximum nominal flow is set to 350 mA. For such signs in the robot, it is necessary to vikoristovat the life force with a power supply in the interval of 300-330 mA. This is true for any type of connection. This range of operating recommendations is in order not to shorten the term of the lamp’s specification, and even heat dissipation may not lose its functions forever.
• Class of tightness and moisture resistance (protection). Currently, the protection class is indicated by two digits after the IP. The first figure is to talk about rhubarb protection from solid liquids (saw, mud, sand, ice). Another - about rare media (water, speech). However, nothing is reported about the required temperature for which a luminaire can qualify for IP class. It may or may not be cooled, stored in the body.

It is necessary to be as careful before purchasing a driver for a lamp as before purchasing the lamp itself, since life itself is a guarantee of long-term service for any device. If you cannot select the appropriate driver for the lamps, then you can make one yourself. The folding scheme is very simple.

Nowadays, living people are increasingly exposed to light-emitting diodes. The popularity of LED lamps is entirely due to the fact that the new lighting technology does not detect ultraviolet radiation, is economical, and the service life of such lamps is over 10 years. In addition, with the help of LED elements in home and office interiors, it is easy to create original light textures outside.

If you have decided to fix up your home or office, you should know that they can affect the power supply settings. For optimal lighting, you need an LED driver. So, as there is a growing market for refurbishment of devices, both different viscosity and pricing policy, before adding light-emitting devices and a living block to them, we will not be aware of the main trends, which is to demonstrate the fakhivts And in this regard.

Let's take a look now, we will need such a device as a driver.

What is the purpose of drivers?

The driver (life unit) is a device that has the function of stabilizing the flow that flows through the circuit of LEDs, and is indicative of the fact that the device you are using is guaranteed by the manufacturer many years When selecting a life block, it is necessary to thoroughly understand its output characteristics, such as flows, voltage, tension, coefficient of action (CCF), as well as the stage of its protection and the infusion of external factors.

For example, from the passing indicators, the brightness of the LED is stored in the stream. The digital voltage value selects the range in which the driver operates in case of possible voltage cuts. Well, the stronger the CCD, the more effective the device will be, and the term of its operation will be greater.

Where are LED drivers being tested?

Electronic device - driver - expect to live under an electrical voltage of 220V, but do not work at a very low voltage of 10, 12 and 24V. The operating output voltage range, as a rule, ranges from 3V to several tens of volts. For example, you need to connect these LEDs with a voltage of 3V. This type will require a driver with an output voltage of 9 to 24V, which is rated at 780 mA. Please note that, regardless of versatility, such a driver has a small coefficient of corrosive action, which gives it minimal importance.

If you need to install lighting in a car, insert a lamp into the headlight of a bicycle, motorcycle, into one or two small street lamps or into a manual lamp, living from 9 to 36V will be completely sufficient for you.

LED drivers will need to be selected if you intend to connect the LED system, which consists of three or more devices, on the street, you have chosen them to decorate your interior, or You have office table lamps that operate at least 8 one day.

How does the driver work?

As we have already learned, the LED driver acts as a driver. The voltage dzherelo creates a voltage at its output, which ideally does not lie under the influence.

For example, a 40 Ohm resistor is connected to the voltage of 12. Through a new flow of 300 mA.

Now let's turn on two resistors at once. The total flow becomes already 600mA.

The life block supports the output of the string tasks. The voltage may change. A 40 Ohm resistor can also be connected to the 300 mA driver.

The life block is created using resistors with a voltage of 12V.

If you connect two resistors in parallel, the flow will also be 300mA, and the voltage will be double.

What are the main characteristics LED drivers?

When selecting a driver, be sure to pay attention to such parameters as output voltage, tension (string), which is associated with pressure.

- the output voltage should be equal to the voltage drop on the LED; number of LEDs; depending on the connection method.

— The stream at the output of the life block is determined by the characteristics of the light-emitting diodes and depends on their intensity and brightness, the intensity and color scheme.

Focus on the color characteristics of LED lamps. Where does the pressure of vantage lie? For example, the average intensity of a red LED varies between 740 mW. The green color has an average voltage of about 1.20 W. Using this data, you can find out which driver you need.

P=Pled x N

de Pled - the strength of the LED, N - the number of diodes that are connected.

Another important rule. D For stable operation of the life block, the reserve for tension should be 25%. Then the relationship may end up like this:

Pmax ≥ (1.2…1.3)xP

where Pmax is the maximum tension on the life block.

How to connect LEDs correctly?

There are many ways to connect LEDs.

The first method is a sequential introduction. Here you need a driver with a voltage of 12V and a power supply of 300mA. With this method, the LEDs in the lamp or on the strip burn brightly, but if you decide to connect more LEDs, you will need a driver with a very high voltage.

Another method is parallel connection. We need a 6V life block, and the flow will live approximately twice as much as below when connected in series. And it’s not enough - one lance can be shone brighter than another.

Series-parallel connection – occurs in spotlights and other heavy-duty lamps that operate under both constant and alternating voltage.

The fourth method is to connect the driver two at a time. Vіn mensh bazhany.

Another hybrid option. You have realized the advantages of serial and parallel connection of LEDs.

Be sure to select the driver before you buy the LEDs, and then you should also determine the connection diagram for them. So the life block is more effective for you.

Linear and pulse drivers. What are these principles of work?

Today, linear and pulse drivers are suitable for LED lamps.
The linear output has a strum generator, which ensures voltage stabilization without disrupting its electromagnetic transients. Such drivers are simple to buy and not expensive, but a low coefficient of corrosive action limits the scope of their use.

Pulse drivers, however, have a high coefficient of action (close to 96%) and are also more compact. A driver with such characteristics is better suited for portable lighting devices, which allows you to increase the operating time of your life. The only downside is that due to the high level of electromagnetic transfers there are fewer advantages.

Do you need a 220V LED driver?

To connect to the 220V voltage, linear and pulse drivers are available. When the life blocks perform galvanic isolation (transfer of energy or signal between electrical switches without electrical contact between them), they demonstrate a high coefficient of corrosive action, reliability and safety in operation tsії.

Without galvanic isolation, the life block will cost you less, but will not be as reliable, and you need to be careful when it is accidentally hit by a strum.

When selecting the intensity parameters, fachists recommend changing your selection on light-LED drivers with a intensity that exceeds the required minimum by 25%. Such a reserve of tension will not allow the electronic device and the life-saving device to go wrong.

Do you want to buy Chinese drivers?

Made in China – today there are hundreds of drivers with different characteristics available on the market, manufactured in China. What are the stench? Basically, this device is equipped with a pulse generator with a 350-700mA current. The low price and the presence of galvanic isolation allow such drivers to be in demand among buyers. There are a few of the Chinese selections. Most often, the stench does not linger on the case; the use of cheap elements reduces the reliability of the driver and also protects against overheating and power failure every day.

Chinese drivers, like a lot of goods produced by the Celestial Empire, are unsatisfactory. If you want to install a clear lighting system that will serve you well, it is better to buy a converter for LEDs from a verified distributor.

What is the term for LED driver service?

Drivers, like electronics, have their own terms of use. The warranty period for the LED driver service is 30,000 years. However, it is important to remember that the operating time of the device is also affected by instability of voltage, humidity and temperature changes, in addition to other external factors.

Insufficient driver usage also reduces the operating time of the device. For example, if the LED driver is rated at 200W, but delivers 90W of power, half of its power rotates into the electrical circuit, causing it to power up. This provokes frequent failures in life and equipment may burn out, serving you no longer.

Stay happy with us and you won’t have to change your LED devices often.

LEDs, which in recent years have seriously suppressed all other sources of light, today you can see brightness everywhere. Stinks appear in apartments and offices, light up the streets, and decorate everyday life and interiors. However, for the correct operation of the light feeder, you need a clear and reliable driver for LEDs. Today we’ll talk about this very important node and figure out why this driver is so necessary, as it happens, and we’ll now try to make a led driver with our own hands.

What is a driver and what is it you need?

If you look into the English-Russian dictionary, you can find out that driver is literally “water” (driver - water, English). The stars have such wonderful names and what should they bring? In order to get in touch with someone, let’s open up a little and talk about LEDs.

Light-emitting diode (led) is a conductor device designed to produce light under the influx of voltage that is supplied to the new one. Moreover, for proper operation of the voltage conductor, which ensures an optimal flow through the crystal, it may be constant and highly stabilized. There is a particular need for high-pressure LEDs, which are extremely critical to avoid any changes and disruptions in the life stream. Varto kharchuvannuyu dіoda a little will decrease, as a result of the flow and, as a result, the light output will change. At the slightest excess of the normal value, the air supply conductor immediately overheats and burns out.

The main purpose of the driver is to provide the light and power supply necessary for normal operation. Thus, the LED driver is, in essence, a living unit for light-emitting diodes, their “water”, which ensures the smooth operation of the light source.

Expert's Thought

Oleksiy Bartosh

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You will not use the same lightning device that has a powerful LED in its storage, which does not include a driver. That’s why it’s so important to understand what drivers are, what they do and what characteristics they have.

Types of LED drivers

All drivers for LEDs can be divided according to the principle of stream stabilization. Today there are two such principles:

1. Linear.
2. Pulse.

Linear stabilizer

Let’s say we have a low-voltage LED that needs to be lit. Let's take the simplest diagram:

A diagram that explains the linear principle of stream regulation

It is set by resistor R, which changes the role of the intermediary, the necessary value of the circuit is for the LED to light. If the supply voltage has changed (for example, the battery is running low), we turn the resistor motor and renew the necessary circuit. As it increases, the flow itself changes. You just need to use the simplest linear stabilizer: follow the string through the LED and, if necessary, “twist the knob” of the resistor. Only work as quickly as possible, responding to the least amount of pressure within a given value. Of course, the driver does not play any role, its role is played by the transistor, but the essence of the explanation does not change.

Why is there a lack of linear circuits of the struma stabilizer? On the right, there is a flow through the adjusting element and a tightness is clearly rising, as the wind is simply warming. Moreover, the greater the input voltage, the more you spend. For LEDs with a small operating stream, such a scheme is suitable and is successfully tested, but the powered line driver conductors live more dearly: drivers can absorb more energy without having to Itlyuvach.

The advantages of such life circuits include the remarkable simplicity of the circuit design and the low output of the driver, which goes hand in hand with high reliability.

Linear driver for living LED in the intestinal light

Pulse stabilization

We have the same LED in front of us, but let’s take a different scheme of life:

A diagram that explains the operating principle of a pulse-width stabilizer

Now we replace the resistor with a button KN and add a storage capacitor C. We apply voltage to the circuit and press the button. The capacitor begins to charge, and when a new operating voltage is reached, the LED goes off. If you press the button, the string will move to the permissible value, and the conductor will light up. Let's release the button. The capacitor continues to live on the LED and is gradually discharged. As soon as the stream drops below the permissible value for the LED, we press the button again, activating the capacitor.

The axis sits like this and periodically presses the button, maintaining the normal operating mode of the LED. The greater the tension, the pressure will be shorter. Whenever the voltage is lower, the button will have to be pressed even more. This is based on the principle of pulse width modulation. The driver is connected behind the string through a light-emitting diode and powered by a switch collected on a transistor or thyristor. It’s very fast to work (tens and even hundreds of thousands per second).

At first glance, the robot is tedious and foldable, but not for electronic circuits. The efficiency of the pulse stabilizer can reach 95%. The current energy consumption is minimal, and the key elements of the driver do not require heavy heat transfer. Naturally, pulse stabilizers are more complex in design and more expensive, but they all pay off with high productivity, high-performance stabilization of the stream and flexible weight and size characteristics.

This pulse driver can output up to 3 A without any radiators.

How to choose a driver for LEDs

Having learned from the principle of operation of led drivers, I forgot to learn how to choose them correctly. If you haven’t forgotten the basics of electrical engineering, which you learned in school, then this is quite simple. We are reviewing the main characteristics of the converter for LEDs that play a part in the choice:

• voltage input;
• voltage output;
• exit strum;
• The tension is noticeable;
• step zakhistu v dovkil.

First of all, you need to decide what kind of life your LED lamp will be used for. This could be a 220-meter fence, a car side fence, or something else that would require either a changeable or a permanent structure. First of all: voltage, as you will be victorious, you have to invest in the range, the instructions in the passport for the driver are in the column “input voltage”. Cream of size, it is necessary to soak it in the same direction: permanent or changeable. In a rosette, for example, there is a changeable flow, and in a car - a permanent one. The first is usually abbreviated as AC, the other as DC. In most cases, this information can be found on the device itself.

This driver is rated for operation in the range of changing voltage from 100 to 265 V

Next we move on to the output parameters. Let's say you have three LEDs for an operating voltage of 3.3 V and 300 mA of power (indicated in the supporting documentation). You wanted to make a table lamp, the diode connection diagram is consistent. We add up the operating voltages of all the conductors, resulting in a voltage drop for each connector: 3.3 * 3 = 9.9 V. The flow with such a connection is lost by itself - 300 mA. This means that you need a driver with an output voltage of 9.9, which will ensure stabilization of the current at 300 mA.

Expert's Thought

Oleksiy Bartosh

Repair, maintenance of electrical installations and industrial electronics.

Ask an expert

Important! All drivers that operate under the same driver must be of the same type and belong to the same part. Otherwise, there will be an inevitable change in the parameters of the LEDs, as a result of which one of them will light up, and the other will burn out quickly.

Of course, you won’t be able to figure it out on your own, but it’s not necessary. All drivers are not rated for specific voltage, but for a specific range. Your mission is to add your meaning to this range. And the output axis is responsible for precisely delivering 300 mA. In extreme cases, it can be much less (the lamp is not as bright), but not at all more. Otherwise, your self-confidence will burn out within a month.

Let's go further. It's clear what kind of driver we need. This parameter is responsible for at least a decrease in the intensity of our current lamp, and more often than not, it exceeds the value by 10-20%. How can we remove the tightness of our “garland” from three LEDs? It’s predictable: the electrical tension of the vantagement is the same as the strum that goes through it, multiplied by the voltage. We take a calculator and multiply the operating voltage of all LEDs per strum, first converting the rest into amperes: 9.9 * 0.3 = 2.97 W.

The remaining touch. Constructively not vikonannya. The attachment can be either with the body or without it. The first, of course, is afraid of saws and vologists, and in terms of electrical safety it is not the best option. If you choose to install a driver in a lamp, the housing of which will have a good protection from excess media, then you’ll be fine. If the lamp body contains a number of ventilation openings (the LEDs are responsible for cooling), and the device itself is located in the garage, then it is better to choose a housing with a moisture-proof housing.

So, we need a LED driver with the following characteristics:

• life voltage - 220 V alternating current;
• output voltage - 9.9 V;
• output stream – 300 mA;
• Output pressure – not less than 3 W;
• the body is made of saw-logos.

We rush into the store and marvel. Axis:

Driver for life of LEDs

Moreover, it is not just suitable, but ideally consistent with the questions. A few decreases in the output stream will extend the life of the LEDs, but the brightness of their light will not be noticeable. The pressure drops to 2.7 W - there will be a reserve of driver pressure.

Expert's Thought

Oleksiy Bartosh

Repair, maintenance of electrical installations and industrial electronics.

Ask an expert

Since you already have a lot of LEDs, then when they are turned on one by one, the voltage can be moved as much as possible for other drivers. In this section, go to the section Diagram for connecting the driver to the LEDs, which is located at the end of this article.

What is the difference between the driver for LEDs and the life block for the LED strip?

The main idea is that the life blocks are for something else, a lower primary LED driver. Let’s try to clarify the power supply, and now we’ll learn to choose the right driver for the LED strip. One light-colored stitch is a small lining, on which the same light-emitting diodes are sewn. The stench can stand at the 2nd, 3rd, 4th rows, but it’s not so important. The most important thing to do is to embrace the fact that the stinks are united among themselves.

All conductors on the line are divided into groups of 3 LEDs, connected in series through a flow-exchange resistor. All groups, in their own way, are united in parallel:

Electrical diagram of one section (left-handed) and all LED strips

The stitch is sold in reels of 5 m each and is rated for operating voltage of 12 or 24 V. As a result, there will be not 3, but 6 LEDs in the skin group. Let’s say you bought a 12 V thread with a power supply of 14 W/m. Then, the full power is absorbed by the entire reel, resulting in 14 * 5 = 70 W. If you don't need such a long time, you can cut off the unneeded part from the wash and distribute it between the sections. For example, you cut half of it. What characteristics do you change? Only the tightness is experienced: it will change twice.

Expert's Thought

Oleksiy Bartosh

Repair, maintenance of electrical installations and industrial electronics.

Ask an expert

Important! Don’t forget that you can cut one LED strip only between sections of 3 LEDs (for 24-volt there will be 6), as you can clearly see. I have marked them with arrows on the little one below.

The area under the section is clearly visible and the knife marked with pictograms is placed.

Is it necessary to delimit and stabilize the strum through a standard light-emitting diode? Absolutely, otherwise you will burn out. But we completely forgot about the resistor installed in the skin section of the stitch. It serves to interchange the strum and select it in such a way that when supplying exactly 12 volts to the section through the LEDs, it will be optimal. The original driver of the LED strip has a reduced voltage so that it stays strictly at 12 V. Otherwise, you need to use a current-exchange resistor.

Thus, the main responsibility of the LED strip life block from the primary LED driver is that the output voltage is clearly fixed at 12 or 24 V. Here it is no longer possible to substitute the primary driver with an output voltage, say, from 9 to 1 4 Art.

Other criteria for choosing a life block for a light-LED stitch are as follows:

• input voltage. The selection method is the same as for the primary driver: the device depends on the costs of the input voltage and the current flow in which you will live on the same LED line;
• Exhaustive tension. The tension of the life block is at least 10% higher for the tension of the stitch. In this case, a large supply of brother is necessary: ​​the efficiency of the entire structure is reduced;
• class zakhistu vid dovkil. The technique is the same as for the LED driver (a marvelous thing): the device is not to blame for the loss of the driver.

The driver for the LED strip is nothing more than a high-voltage voltage stabilizer. It looks like the voltage is strictly fixed, but there is absolutely no need to follow the exit string. For reasons of interest and experimentation, you can replace it with, for example, a PC life block (12 U bus). The brightness and durability of the stitch will not be compromised.

Driver connection diagram to LEDs

It’s easy to connect the driver to the LEDs without damaging your skin. All markings are applied to the body. You supply the input voltage to the input terminals (INPUT), and connect a line of LEDs to the output terminals (OUTPUT). One thing, it is necessary to achieve polarity, and this is what I am focusing on in the report.

Input polarity (INPUT)

If the voltage that drives the driver is constant, then the voltage readings with the “+” sign must be connected to the positive pole of the voltage supply. If the voltage is changeable, then be careful about marking the input wires. The following options are possible:

1. Marking “L” and “N”: it is necessary to apply a phase to the “L” mark (using an additional twist indicator), and to the “N” mark – zero.
2. Marking “~”, “AS” or every day: polarity does not need to be adjusted.

Output polarity (OUTPUT)

Here polarity is being achieved again! The positive wire is connected to the anode of the first LED, the negative wire is connected to the cathode of the remaining one. The LEDs themselves are connected to each other: the front anode to the front cathode.

Diagram of connecting the driver to a garland of three sequentially switched on LEDs.

Since you already have a lot of LEDs (say, 12 pieces), they will have to be divided into several groups, and these groups will be connected in parallel. In this case, it is important that the voltage of all groups is combined with the lamp, and the operating voltage will be similar to the voltage of one group.

DIY line driver for LEDs

Now that we're done with the theory, let's move on to practice and try to assemble a line driver with our own hands. The easiest way to do this is to use a wide-ranging integrated stabilizer KR142EN12A (its imported analogue is LM317). You can find one in any reputable store, and it costs about 20 rubles. Required materials and tools: soldering iron, tester and dart.

This microcircuit is designed for an input voltage of up to 40 V, a current voltage of up to 1.5 A and, as a result, protection from voltage, short circuit and overheating. True, it is not a voltage stabilizer, but the driver can stabilize the voltage. This means that the power supply has, apparently, slightly changed the typical circuit for switching on the microcircuits.

Universal driver for LEDs on an integral stabilizer

Here the microcircuit is installed as a regulatory element that stabilizes the flow at a given level. What size will this strum be? Place everything under the support of resistor R1, the value of which is insured using a simple formula: R = 1.2/I, de:

• R – op in ohms;
• I – necessary flow in amperes.

Let's try to get a driver for these LEDs, which we used to build a table lamp on the head of the statue. So, we need a driver with a voltage of 9.9 and a variable stabilization voltage of 300 mA. It is important to consider the value of resistor R1: 1.2/0.3 = 4 Ohms. The remaining resistor is placed at the strum lancus, the voltage of which is selected to be no less than 4 W.

This is where resistors come in handy, as they are used in almost all TVs to suppress life (these are found in any store). The stench is 2 W and 1-2 Ohm. For single-ohm resistors, you will need 4 pcs., for double-ohm ones - 2 pcs. We connect them sequentially so that the supports are folded.

We attach the microcircuit to a small radiator and connect the lanyards from three successively connected LEDs to the output of our driver, maintaining polarity. You can get in. Ale kudi? What is the voltage input of this driver? The axis here begins to flow. The input voltage is at least 2-3 volts more than what is needed for LEDs, but not more than 40 V - the microcircuit does not vibrate more.

Our specific type of LEDs requires 9.9 V. Therefore, a constant voltage of 12 to 40 V can be applied to the input. Moreover, the voltage may be unstable. You can use a car battery, a laptop or PC power supply unit that reduces the transformer from one bridge. We connect, the polarities are adjusted, and our light is ready!

Expert's Thought

Oleksiy Bartosh

Repair, maintenance of electrical installations and industrial electronics.

Ask an expert

What about the output voltage? There is no need to be fussy about this. Since the driver stabilizes the stream at a given level, the voltage on the LEDs needs to be restored without assistance. Whoever doesn’t believe it, take a tester and die.

Our conversation about led drivers has ended. I hope that now you know quite a bit how this important device works, otherwise you can select it correctly, connect it, and then connect it with your own hands.