Modding the case to improve ventilation and reduce noise. Modernization of old PCs New life for an old PC case with your own hands

Although the price factor is far from being the only factor, but, as a rule, in the middle price range there is the greatest amount in the long-term housing design. I’ll just get ahead of you, there are no other words here about the price.

Not every computer case is clearly divided.

From the very beginning you can learn everything, but in the middle you can’t work with it without a mitten. An hour passes and the color of the plastic changes, the surface peels, the fastening screws become loose.

There are few good buildings, and even fewer buildings that are clearly designed.

Virobniks (we can’t say that the developers) of manufacturing cases do not think about cooling the computer, nor about manual access to nodes, nor about the placement of cables.

And not all the remaining buildings can be brought into an ideal state.

What is the ideal case?

To select this technological body is attached to its manufacturing and installation, such as, in other words, about half of all manufactured models.

For koristuvach there is a small case for compact a highly productive computer that takes up minimal space, does not make noise, and does not require maintenance. There are simply no such people who are satisfied with everything they can get.

The other half, these buildings, were designed, in principle, unwritten, in violation of the laws of physics. Its layout is unmanageable, access to certain units is impossible without dismantling others. Ventilation is organized in a chaotic manner, the hot air often comes out and gets back into the body.

Only a small part of the buildings are subject to further examination, after which it is possible to significantly increase the power of the government.

Instead, a body that comes close to ideal, which allows you to install any imaginable or inconceivable components, if there are any before them quick access and all the universities will cool down nicely. I want the ability to set up the system between the body. There are only one such model of housing.

Now the computer can start instantly:

practically silent,

highly productive,

mothers the possibility of a steady increase in computational potential,

And in this case it is easy to service.

Hopefully such a case will be compact.

The series of articles “Extreme Corpus” contains such a corpus of descriptions. And even if the case is compact, although it cannot be made perfect, it can be properly painted.

Here we will show the process of refinishing an old case of an unknown model, in which the computer was assembled by the Formosa company, which does not mark the model. (If you show me this model, I will be happy to help you.)

The actions of nutrition and further examination are already described:

Tools for refinishing the body

The fragments of the body are tied with a piece of metal 0.75-1 mm thick, for which a special tool is required. I used a jigsaw with smooth adjustment of cutting speed and special metal saws with my kit.

Practice has shown that this is the most powerful tool.

Don't forget to check and clean the edges, otherwise injuries are inevitable! Most of the edges of the city are in new buildings, and most of the manufacturers will be affected by this.

Practice with mittens!

Additional examination of the corps

The fragments of all the buildings cover the structure and are greatly damaged; I will not give a description of the resulting body. To understand the principles of further examination, it is enough to look at what is extracted from the result and what characteristics it includes.

The modified chassis, without the front panel and hanging elements, looks like this:

This further investigation lies in: I will open the door on the day to supply cold air to the body, There are more slots in the direct line from the entrance opening at the bottom of the body to the exit opening at the upper crown. Open the valves behind the area no less than the area of ​​the entrance opening in the bottom, but do not reduce the rigidity of the body. Internal partitions must be removed from the body for further processing. For this purpose, simply drill out the hollow aluminum rivets that are riveted. The gate installation is mounted using standard hollow rivets d=3.2-3.5 mm.

To install the power supply at the upper rear part of the case, at the rear station, make a screw and open the fastening screw. The power supply unit is installed with the fan opening up and mixed with the table so that the top cover touches top panel frame. Of course, there is an open space at the top panel opposite the fan.

Brackets for a 120 mm case fan are installed from the power supply. The external appearance of the design of the upper part of the modified body is shown in Fig. 2.

And this is what it looks like from below.

A small support air filter is installed in the opening at the bottom of the housing, which ensures air filtration, which is especially necessary for high air exchange. It looks like this:

Filter made from the required (1-4) number of balls of synthetic material – padding polyester. This large area allows the aerodynamic support of the filter to be reduced. The filter is pressed around the perimeter with a plastic frame. For this fixation, a few elements are needed to support it.

The case contains a chassis for mounting elements, on which a cage for three HDDs is mounted. This allows you to create a computer block that is functionally complete and allows you to run the computer outside the case. This vertical placement of the HDD above the air filter allows for the reduction of heat dissipation from the hard drive cases, which also confirms the temperature overheating of the case (at 4 degrees C with a ventilation system, which operates at a minimum productivity of up to 12 degrees W when the ventilation system is turned off).

This is what the installation of a working layout on a visual block looks like. Cable zhizhvennya vimkneno.

The living block was installed on the new site.

The block is powered by a case fan.

І Zagalny Viglyad saved computer.

I’ll hang your respect on the support of the computer case. This design has a height of 40 mm. There are fragments of the filter at the bottom of the housing; for normal supply, their height must be sufficient for proper supply of the cooling air. How to appreciate the height, I already wrote on the site.

Visnovok

When choosing a durable case, it is not important to conclude that it is ideal for the most productive computers and workstations. The design is especially suitable for overclockers, which allows for the supply of cooling air to the nodes at a temperature that is comparable to the outside air. This allows the launched computer to run in normal mode.

Enter

The idea of ​​reworking the computer case appeared a long time ago. The “standard” layout of the system unit is not very easy to use. The need to frequently connect or reconnect connectors on the rear wall of the system unit... Place the system under the wall to ensure easy access to the drive trays.

The window on the side wall is practically inaccessible for monitoring the behavior of fans and other components of the system unit. Same system unit When hard drives are installed or drive cables are re-mixed, the operation is carried out “on the dot”, without visual control of the process. Therefore, the “rotation” of the front panel on the side wall suggested itself. The case becomes side-by-side to the wall, the front panel with a floppy flop and CD trays are accessible from the side wall. It’s easier to reach the back wall, the fragments are now on the side.

First of all, it is necessary to examine the body for the possibility of such processing, prepare the necessary materials and tools. Then you won’t have to worry about all the measurements and transfers, so that all the drives can be connected, and the cables and cables from the mollexes of life will not rest against the side wall, which is located at the back in relation to the front panel. Don't get the necessary chairs on a scale of 1:1. In addition, part of the frame, molded under the front panel, will provide rigidity to the body, so think about the additional elements of the design, ensuring the necessary rigidity to the body after processing and folding.

Insanely, it was specifically decided to lie inside the structure of the body, which is in order. In my case, the dimensions of the open body allowed it to accommodate devices so that it could easily be installed on the front panel. And the dimensions of the barrel window made it easy to install motherboard The housing has already been rebuilt and all necessary connections have been removed.

Hide robots

Armchair bulo viconano in AutoCAD. The dimensions of the elements of the body and the filling have been placed in the most compact way.

Then all the filling was removed from the case and it was put away and presented to the place of future work. After removing the front panel, it became clear that the elements of the frame and body are connected with soft rivets made of aluminum alloy. Some of them were “bitten” with strong wire cutters, and some of them had to be drilled out, after which the stench was removed, and the front wall of the frame of the body was reinforced in the face.

Photo 1 shows the body elements after disassembly. At the bottom, the left hand is attached to the front part of the frame, the right hand at the bottom is attached to the chassis with hard drives and floppies - a disk drive.

Photo 1

In the near future, the front part of the frame will be “fitted” in a new place (photo 2)

Photo 2

In photo 2 you can see that part of the cover of the case overlaps the CD-ROM insertion window. Therefore, after marking, this part of the lid was cut to the required dimensions. In addition, I decided to increase the size of the window at the side of the frame, to which the motherboard is attached to ensure easy access to the hard drive and CD-ROM sockets after securing them at the building. In addition, it was necessary to put a piece of aluminum alloy around the body, to which the side wall of the frame is attached.

Photo 3

This little bundle is clearly visible in photo 3. All elements of the frame that are assembled are assembled on screws with M3 nuts. I had a chance to drill a number of openings in the frame elements with a drill bit with a diameter of 3.2 mm. After securing the chassis to the hard drive and installing the CD-ROM, I moved to a sufficient distance to the tank wall for free manipulation of the cables and life-saving connectors. Now you can secure the life block to the case and install the motherboard in its place. After connecting everything and connecting the loops and life cables, the advantages of this arrangement became obvious (photo 4). All cables and loops are easily stored behind the front panel block with ample space between the chassis and the side wall. This solution facilitates the organization of ventilation flows in the middle of the housing. Another positive power is the ability to install additional fans at the full height of the body on the entire front panel. These fans effectively blow air into the hard drives and effectively blow air into the case. The fluidity of their wrappings is reduced with sufficient strength not to increase the level of noise that can be seen from them, ensuring an effective surge of wind.

Photo 4

After installing all the boards, expansion and installation of the front decorative panel, the case looked as shown in photos 5 and 6.

Photo 5

Photo 6

Now you can try on the body until it sits on the table until there is enough space left to fit. (Photo 7.)

Photo 7

This photo does not show the installation of a wall with ventilation openings and windows, a plug for CDROM slots, a backlight, etc. While working on the reconstruction of the case, the idea came up of installing a radio, a tube for direct airflow of the processor cooler to the outside air... The radio plans to install a handrail in the station from the front decorative panel in the lower part and barrel panel.

Visnovok

It is much easier to handle the body after reworking. In addition, it takes up much less space on the desktop, spreading out to the side and providing easy access to the drives and connectors on the rear station. After processing, the filling of the body heats up less and is available for visual control, reducing the level of noise. Most importantly, I work without a monitor, and I use it through remote access along the edge. It’s surprising that the hull generators do not transfer the innate ability for such a transformation to the hull.

The robot was completed in 4 years. In addition, we needed: a piece of plexiglass 4 mm thick for the size of the front panel for the preparation of a barrel (large face) wall, trimmings of synthetic padding polyester and metal mesh for drying air filters, aluminum The 25x25 mm corner is equal to the height of the body, screws and M3 nuts.
For tools - wire cutters, a hacksaw for metal, a drill, drills, twisters, a hammer, a center punch, a mallet, metal flanges, a block of hard wood as a lining (so as not to zip the panels), metal knives.

Igor Leonov
envelope-from leonov (a) atom.krasnet.ru
0 5 /03.2006

In this article, we will try to find out about those, using certain techniques, you can improve ventilation and reduce the level of noise in a simple and inexpensive housing.

When thinking about the last instance, our choice was on CHENBRO Xpider II Thanks to its low quality and stylish, modern appearance, it attracts many computer enthusiasts. However, the efficiency of cooling the components installed in the middle is not very high and falls short of its appearance.

so what? we need for further examination?

First of all, there are aluminum slats and rolls. You can get them at any government or government store. In our case, we found something even more economical - we used a vikoristan sled with a broken hanger for the keyboard. The reign, it seems, is all in good hands.

Otherwise, there is a plastic or metal mesh acoustic speakers. Technically, it is not really needed, but if you value the modern appearance of your body, then you should be careful before choosing this part - it will be in everyone’s eyes.

In addition to the basic details, we need the following tools:

• 2 twists – slotted (flat) and figured (cross);
• electric or manual drill;
• metal hacksaw;
• liqueur and emery paper;
• wire cutters and pliers;
• a little gumi from an old car camera;
• glue, double-sided tape.

Let's get started

The first method is the simplest and most accessible to the skin. This involves changing the local hydraulic supports of the body or, in Russian terms, improving the “ventilation of the body.” Let us now try to explain what is behind such reasonable phrases.

You may have noticed such fans and coolers when looking at them technical characteristics like “shocky sweat” and “static pressure”. And the meaning of stench is:

wind flow – the amount of wind that the fan can supply in one hour;

static vice is the force with which the fan rotates.

From this value, you can create a circuit that will turn the fan on to create a large amount of air flow, but at least statically, its efficiency will be practically equal to zero, since the air that is supplied will be in excess use little force to patch up the support near the visible wires or grilles. We have come to the main problem - the grilles are stamped on the openings for installing fans.

So, the stampings themselves create the head support on the way to the wind. If you take a ruler and measure the width of the steel joint, you will see that it becomes 0.15-0.30 in relation to the gap between them. Also, in this case, the air flow is blocked by 15 to 30% of the area of ​​the opening exposed to ventilation. It is also necessary to apply not only horizontal, but also vertical, mixtures, which in total results in 25 to 40% overlap of the ventilation opening. There are also switches that can change the efficiency of the fan installed behind it. In addition, stamped burrs, instead of grill-type burrs, have flat, sharp edges, which creates additional noise in the Russian wind.

How to deal with this problem? It’s even simpler - take a pair of wire cutters and “vikushuyemo” grati. Then, with safety precautions, we apply a sawdust file.

We can approximate this result. Now that the fan is installed, it can be “scooped” across the entire diameter of the impeller without interruption.

We can do the same with the rear grille. Pay attention to the method of fastening the fan to the case - the best shortest method These are primarily screws and nuts. To reduce vibration and, apparently, reduce noise, it is recommended to use small straight-cut humic pads, cut from the old chamber.

As soon as the ventilation improves, an additional fan will be installed.

Since this building is completely finished at the bottom, we decided not to spoil its appearance by installing an additional fan on the side. So we had a chance to put it in front.

Metal plugs of 5.25” sizes (like their plastic counterparts on the front panel) are carefully removed and placed on the side - they will be lost forever.

Well, on the front panel we have created significant room for maneuvers. The top water can be removed without changes - it will be installed there DVD drive. And under the axis we can install an additional 120 mm fan.

To install it, we need to use pliers to cut out the metal ear with one of the unnecessary plugs for the 5.25” tank.

Using small screws and nuts, we fasten the bracket to the fan.

And through another hole in the mouth we screw on a fan in another animal with a size of 5.25”. There is no need for gum pads, since the fan is actually suspended on springs and its vibration is not transmitted to the housing.

The placement of fans in the case is most effective when the processor is equipped with a tower-type cooler, such as the Noctua NH-U12P. In a similar situation, the cooler on the processor receives cold air from the front fan and supplies heat to the rear one. Such a similarity to a turbine is created, or, as people seem, it stretches.

Please note that if the processor has a horizontal type cooler installed, such as the Noctua NH-C12P, then it would be most beneficial to install an additional fan on the main body of the case (although in our case this is problematic), so that the air can be cooled down I'm like that This is packaged in AeroCool ExtremEngine 3T.

One of the shortcomings of this body is its low height. At first glance, it’s incredible. However, when a massive cooler was installed, for example, when we installed the Noctua NH-U12P, it became noticeable that the processor cooling system with its oversized radiator was approaching the lower ventilation opening of the cooling unit and half-blocking it. Naturally, this caused an increase in the heating of the elements of the living unit and as a result of an increase in the winding fluidity of the fan. In one way, this is a loud noise, but in another way, shortening the term of service of elements to the life block is unkind.

By changing the heat transfer in the middle of the body and making the cooling unit more effective, we decided to move it beyond the boundaries of the body.

That's why we need aluminum slats. For our case, the first half was 500 mm, the other - 350 mm.

It is necessary to drill two small openings on one side of the slats.

And on the other side, stick a couple of pieces of double-sided tape. Scotch tape will keep your living unit free from rags, as well as dampen vibrations and deterioration.

Then, to install the slats, you need to trim a little with a hacksaw and a file. Unfortunately, we cannot give the exact dimensions, since the dimensions of the slats and the shape of the body may be different, otherwise your result may turn out the same as in the picture. The width of the sawn opening should be such that the slats laid through it with the flat side come as close as possible to the side walls of the body.

On one of the 5.25” holes (we have a different one) we drill 2 small openings.

At the highest level, the openings are drilled on the side part of the chassis.

Using small screws, we fasten the offending slats, stretching them through the opening we sawed earlier. The short rail is screwed to the side wall, and the long one is screwed to 5.25” width.

Everything where further investigation can be completed. I lost my ability to take over the entire system. Ale work has become a little more convenient.

Now you will have to select the system like this. First, all the “fillings” are installed, and then the life block. The wire from the life block must be gathered into a bundle and pulled through the opening. Holding the life block with your hand, step it forward and stitch it so that the darts do not get caught in the cooler or any other element. It is much easier to perform this operation in two.

If all the arrows in the life block are placed in the middle of the body, it can be carefully placed in the sled and pressed against the back wall of the body (for reliability, you can also secure it with standard screws, or, more accurately, , for whom you have to open a new one). It is recommended to turn the fan housing unit upside down so that it does not immediately draw in any air heat visible from the housing.

The axis of the new body is seen from the side. To improve the front panel, you can use the mesh installed on the cob. You can cut it into the required shape and size using a file, scissors and pliers. You can plant them with glue or tape.

The body looks nice. It’s amazing how cold it has become in the middle of New Year.

Testing

Under the hour of testing, a stand for testing Corps was created.

We decided not only to protest the cooling in the case before and after modding, but also to compare the results with those of one of the most effective cases in the cooling plan - AeroCool ExtremEngine 3T. The truth is that the price of such a case is much higher than the price of the CHENBRO Xpider II.

Let's see the results.

Apparently, the manipulations we developed allowed us to paint the displays according to absolutely all criteria. This means that the CHENBRO Xpider II is one step closer to AeroCool ExtremEngine 3T, even without catching it.

Visnovki

The CHENBRO Xpider II case, even in the basic version, needs to be topped up with a bad product, especially considering its low quality, and after a short period of time it still shows excellent results in cooling the components. So you can build a solution so that if you get the cheapest case possible, you can cool the system well. Well, about external view And say nothing - modding gives you absolute and unlimited control over the change of any detail. Fold, glue, stitch, and you will easily find the very same, unique style in which you would like to decorate your beloved computer. To our knowledge, we can safely say that using a minimum of design imagination, we have the most powerful and unique system unit.

Positive heritage of moddinha:

• Miraculous cooling of the life block;
• original modern look;
• changes in noise and vibration;
• mentally cost-free operation;
• improved ventilation in the middle of the body.

Negative features:

• increase external dimensions system unit;
• It is important to use caution and practice.

How do you value what our readers appreciate the most? Do you think it’s the overclocking of processors, new video cards or cooling systems? Even though I thought so, I now realize that I have thoroughly repented. Modernization of system units with vertical expansion of the living unit is an axis that is of great interest! Instead of playing, watching TV or just thinking about it, people contribute all the documents and sit for writing articles.

It all started with the miraculous article “About the modernization of computers from a vertical living block.” In fact, this benefit from an upgrade has a lot to do with any kind of computers. Then a number of articles were published dedicated to the modernization of “verticals” itself, transferred to the life block. In principle, there are not so many ways, all of them are obvious. After the publication of many works, I believe that the nutrition has been clarified and new articles on this topic are not needed. I confirmed to everyone who had overpowered such statistics that the robots continued to come. It’s impossible to withstand such pressure, and I’m looking for a compromise - to publish the work being done, rather than extend the publication over a period of time, but to put everything in one article. If you choose to skip the food, you can skip them, and for others, there are a number of ways to modernize them.

Modernization of the hull

I often visit this site and read its materials. The idea of ​​writing this article arose after reading the following works:

advertising

• A radical change to the body with a vertical housing block
• Improved cooling in enclosures with a vertical power supply at a minimum cost and minimum waste

A standard ATX case with a vertically mounted power supply with a power rating of 300 Watts. Having been purchased in 2001 and until the end of last year, the Tualatin 1100/1500 was still alive, and under conditions of manufacture the processor temperature reached 44 o C. Everything worked miraculously until the hour when I started coding home video. When the computer crashed, the computer froze and to increase reliability, I placed the fan from the power supply on the front wall. There was virtually no noise and in such a situation it had been going on until recently.

After the upgrade was carried out, a Celeron 2000/3000 100/150 settled in the case, this processor appeared to sit hot in a bath of Tualatin and under conditions of reaching a temperature of 56 o C (although in statistics the overclocking is sharpened and more high temperatures). In games, tests and other tasks, the processor worked completely stably, but when coding for a long time it froze and worked normally only at a frequency of 2900. Having read the articles on the site and added my thoughts, I did the same.

The purpose of this opus is not to convey the light of my great knowledge to the little-informed outsiders and not to boast about how cool my body is (which is, in principle, a controversial assertion), as I would like to think of people who immediately begin to declare - “I already know this” ( Having known - good job, well done, take the pie from the police.), but simply an attempt to collect in one place some of the brown chips that I found in the open spaces and no, or, regardless of others, guessing myself for the remaining fates.

I am also obliged to respect that I, whether or not I am an opponent of common refrigeration systems, have not yet fundamentally opposed them in my designs, which are considered to be insufficiently reliable (even though there is some evidence from a couple of people I know..., although, most importantly, and positive , but after using it a couple of times to the extent that leakage in the fitting or water block can result, you begin to get confused) or end up with expensive solutions, with the replacement of necessary components. without cooling the components. That’s why you don’t need to sign up with the style - “Statya atstoy, dropsy to steer.” This is not about that.

1. Mechanical modification to the body

Well, you can’t do anything online, but you might want to try it. zazvichay however) body. Ale mi don’t look for easy ways. Well, the main one is Cooler Master Centurion 5. Why? That's why:

In case of shortcomings, it is necessary to take into account the critical distance between the floorboard, which is supported by the power supply and the top of the body – 86mm. A power supply with a height of 85 mm can be easily inserted, and a power supply with a height of 86 mm can be placed with some interference, as it does not fit with an FSP. Although the fact that the BP may have had a height protected by a couple of tens could have played a role here. In any case, 87-88mm would be clearly more beautiful. Other shortcomings are typical for buildings of this type and price. We will have to fight with them.

- - - first - - -

Otje. When we start, we can see fan leaks all over the place. It’s clear that the stench has been created from the best sponkana (I’ve tried it a couple of times, what’s the same - remove the 12 cm Scythe 1600 on your fingers - the blades are on a new sharpening to change the noise. And what about 2500-3000 rpm?), Ale implementation m 'as if he were depriving himself of money... Why is it SO bad to waste? There are two main points here:

According to Pershe Their penetration for the flow from the fan should be set to 40 to 60 centimeter (to match the flow from the high-powered fan). Moreover, the role played here is simply the combination of the flatness of the openings with the flat opening of the fan and the effect of pushing back, out of the gate, part of the wind flow and, for this reason, the main flow. You bring it to the fan, which is running, with your hand on the side and you can clearly feel the return flow of the broken wind along the periphery of the blades.

In a different way, the turbulence in the flow at such speeds creates a tremendous amount of additional noise (for our purposes, there is little noise from the engine and impeller). The same sharp edges of the openings prevent the effect from flowing. So - thank you.

Do not believe in the need to clean up waste, I recommend that you carry out a simple assessment of the wind flow and the level of noise from a fan in a residential area (which is important in your hand), and then use these parameters when working nearby. from the cooler to the body (either in the middle or in the middle - it doesn’t matter).
Methods:

In this case, it is necessary to work not just a round opening, but to repeat the internal contour of the fan winding - such a kind of eight-sided structure with several convex edges. This is to ensure maximum ventilation flow and minimal (more than likely) additional noise from the edges cut into the body of the opening.

In principle, you can generally find the correct glazes for sale (from a polished wood, marvelous photo).

- - - chat v e r t o - - -

/optional, only if the elements in the housing become very hot/

It is absolutely clear that the standard option (air intake through the front fan / in my case through the 5.25 filter through the filter / and through the power supply fan and rear fan) may simply not work. Then you will have to do a little more work with the jigsaw. Well, that seems to be proof. And it turns out that the best place for Wikipedia is on the top side of the computer case. Therefore, we can completely create a 12cm hole there.

With the openings cut under them, I especially have a dilemma - either cut it so that both regular gates are opened at the battery station (otherwise the flow to the CPU cooler is not consistent), or focus on Cooler praci, but it didn’t turn out pretty. Having chosen the first option, I figured that some of the memory that was not spent on the CPU would be spent on the radiator of the external bridge and memory. As anti-type filters, a couple of advantages were obtained from some ancient car speakers. Selected, carefully, for its size, clear perforation and visibility in the middle of a very fine synthetic mesh. It’s a pity that I recently switched over, so I can’t get anything close to the working fan, turbulence immediately arises and the air flow becomes more noticeable. The Scythe Minebea performed almost silently with the installed valve, and then the flow decreased noticeably. Now the stench itself is comparable to the noise of your computer, although not very loud, but at night only a few feet away. And, before speaking, ideally in terms of noise, I got myself a pair of semi-spherical strainers with a diameter of 15 cm, covered with panchochoy, which I tried to freeze as part of the experiment. It is a deep pity that installing them on my computer itself was impossible - from the left wall to the secretary wall, where it stands, only 3-4 cm. Skoda.

2. Installation of case fans

Well, open the fans for preparation, let's proceed to installation. Axiom - ALL fans vibrate during operation, obviously, in one hand, and after they are mounted in the housing, there is an increased level of noise, firstly, for the larger surface that vibrates, otherwise for rakhunok possible resonance of the housing with the frequency of vibration of the fan at song frequency wrapping, especially to “spare”. Then, it is necessary to “supercharge” the fan from the housing by hanging it on a vibrating thread. Having tried many methods, we came up with only one - fastening on self-containing silicone bushings. It was not invented by me, the idea itself was gleaned from the vastness of the Internet. By the way, since you received such bushings in the kit with the fan, you were lucky. And let’s talk about independent preparation, especially since, in my opinion, it’s extremely awkward.

For the cob you need a tube with silicone, the color does not matter. You can also use silicone in tubes, as in the other photo, I haven’t tried it, it was without consumption.

Then the thread is flat on the surface, so it’s not bad - a piece of scrap paper, a sheet of fine paper, I twist the plastic cover whatever. We apply it on the right, some kind of lubricant, which does not disintegrate into the silicone plasticizer, and we do not rub it, but we spread it ourselves, as little as 0.1 mm is exactly required, otherwise the lubricant may hang out and stick. I’m vikoryst letol, it seems, you can apply vershkova oil, the author of the idea of ​​vikorist silicone spray. The tube with sealant has a spout, including slots for the dry scoop (the opening corresponds to the end diameter of the silicone sleeve that is pressed), resulting in a diameter of the outlet opening of 5-5.5 mm (approx. If you want to screw the dry scoop onto the tube without cutting the groove, then turn the screw of the appropriate diameter /bolt (M5-M6) or wrapped and sealed with a strip of wide tape). It’s a pity that it’s just difficult to see from this whole tube, you also need a special “gun” (in the third photo), and it will cost a lot (the hefty tube itself + the gun) for those who have no ability to remove this speech and move it “for rent” for free, then it’s better to get a thread when purchasing (on the other hand, who has any earnings...). The seal is carefully pressed onto the oiled surface of the silicone cap (the author of the idea called them “spouts”, obviously because they were sealed with a transparent sealant) with a length of 2.5 cm, or more than 5-6 cm (without the “spout”) without forgetting Finally pull out the tube without any type of paste to trim the tip of the nose 2-2.5 cm. For every second thing, you will need to thread it through the fan openings and onto the computer case.

Dry for at least 24 years, more than 48. Remove from oil surface and rub. If you don’t know, use a sharp razor (sharp knife) and cut them off the surface. Those who stink not entirely round are not at all important. Installation is as follows: push the extended spout near the fan and pull it, stretching the silicone cowbass to the desired location. After preparing all 4 parts, insert the spouts into the opening of the housing and stretch through until the gap between the fan and the housing is 1-2 mm. The application is being rejected. If the cowbass lasts for a long time, then, by draining their surplus, you can install another fan.

In principle, you can also pay attention to the profile of plastic stretchers to secure the motor and fan impeller in the middle of the cooler. Decent fans have smells that are either round or, at the extreme end, square with rounded edges. Since the edges are clearly straight, then in principle you can bring them with a small file to a more or less rounded edge. So be sure to fight for the skin.

3. Installation of hard drives

The cases in this plan are either with a rear-mounted HDD basket or across the case. In my opinion, the first option is the best, because... In the most important cases, it allows you to cancel the “freebie” add-on. Cooling of screws with a fan from the “face” of the housing. On the other option, you have more time to use other cards, as well as manually replacing the hard drive. To be honest, it doesn’t seem to be offensive. For the first point - current cases are asking for the installation of other cards without focusing on the HDD box, and the other is not an argument for me, I don’t access the hard drives more than once or twice.

Axiom - ALL hard drives vibrate. Some are larger, some are smaller, the actions are not at all noticeable (especially if you hold them in your hands), but you can select them all. Apparently, the vibrations that occur with a standard female screw or screwless fastening are transmitted to the body and, in connection with the surface, which has increased, and possibly hits resonance, they sometimes become even more sensitive. If you have received the case from the HDD mounts through gum or silicone bushings, you don’t have to read further - you are lucky. What not... I learned a little more how to dampen vibrations in the body, but unfortunately it doesn’t help. You can, of course, stick more vibrating clay on the Winchester cat, otherwise, since I’ve gotten over it, this will definitely help only with the removal of one Winchester. As there are more of them, and also of the same type, the situation of low-frequency resonant beats is quite common. This is what I ended up with on my remaining case before installing the Samsung pair. The screws, which were moving quite quietly when turning one at a time, were distorted by a couple of mutes and floating vibrations were such that I periodically rattled on the table in the keyboard.

First option, already a little out of date, unfortunately, due to the change in the design of the main mass of the buildings. Or maybe someone will appear brown, or I’ll put a brown idea on the thread. Father, please love and shanuvati - the suspension of the Winchesters for the help of vibro-clay sheet material.

Plus one more nuance - today’s power supply units should be equipped with a fan of 12-14 cm in diameter, or ONE fan. Step on (it sounds great at low speeds), so that the fan “hits” the elements in the middle of the power supply and pushes them back against the fan. I absolutely do not want to turn the narrow gap at 90 degrees. In a critical situation, there is little circulation of one and the same wind - the fan is working hard, but the temperature rises, and there is nothing from the rear brush of the power supply and the exhaust. To go out, despite the great size, the fan is carefully kept perpendicular to the point where it is necessary to go straight and there is little to go out into (you want to go out, of course). Also. If there is such a possibility (allows a place in the middle of the power supply unit), it is necessary to install additional. 80mm cooler on the rear, visible. The flow through the power supply will significantly increase. If it is possible to install add. fan every day of the day - set the bell and ring it as much as possible. It looks like it can and “not much,” but it helps a lot. Also, if your version of the computer case may be larger, or you may have, for example, a large cooler on the processor, you will need to move the main power supply fan to the other side. Tobto. secure the power supply unit in the middle of the body. This will increase the distance between the fan and the elements of the power supply unit by 25-30 mm and, apparently, the air flow can be more or less normalized. As a result, the blowing of the power supply will improve (without an additional fan on the rear panel), the turbulent noise on the elements of the power supply board will change, and it may still be possible to install an add-on. 80mm fan in the middle of the PSU body (the fragments of this installation include the main fan itself and nothing else, like the butt of the FSP Optima xx-80GLN or Epsilon).

a little bit of noise from the drive.

Terms "pleasant noise", " low rhubarb noise" or "almost not a little bit" present in this statistic, absolutely subjective. Such assessments were made by me with closed windows and apartments, the TV and radio turned on and the presence of noisy noise from the side of the pipes and streets. Tim no less, I live in a panel building "Khrushchovites" ", there are no glass packages in the windows (and within the framework of 40 years ago) and in the modern world there is a present standard industrial noise around the place - the road is 150 m behind the booths, the train is 500 m and there is a lot of greenery, and there is spring-coming-spring the power of rustling in the presence of a strong wind, as I have written “almost not a little bit” is entirely possible that someone will have a lot of sense. For indirect estimates (method, so bi move, alignment with different devices that may instructions from the virobnik The level of noise from the building 1m) the background noise in my living room, among the most important people, is in the range of 32-34 dBA. Obviously, devices with equal noise below 27-29 dBA per meter and more practically not a little... Therefore, since then I completely stop the noise of the system unit at 8 m (fortunately, at the maximum height that can be kept in direct visibility from me apartments) means yogo the noise at such a distance is approximately 33-3 = 30dBA, then we calculate - 4m +6dBA, 2m +12dBA and 1m +18dBA. The orientation noise of the block under the heaving cube and TAT (with which the coolers on the side station are turned to the maximum, and the stench is the loudest) is 47-49 dB at a height of 1 m. In the “Internet” mode, I think it’s 5-6 dBA less. Let us recognize from the open air, from the summer of the summer, on the aphids of the street, that we started almost from the top of the line, well, at least we can listen. Even though I only have 5 Carlsons in the case, another 2 in the power supply and, probably, one each on the CPU and 8800GTX

Let us first note that when the noise fades, it is more accurate to say that it is of a more intense nature, and changing the intensity of the noise by 2 times is consistent with 3 db ( 10 log10 (P2/P1)), and there is no need to confuse the difference of equals with the calculations for important quantities (for example, voltage or flow), changing the value by 2 times is consistent 6 db ( 20 log10 (U2/U1)). In principle, in the simplest way, those who know the formula for calculating the tension on the tension from the tension and the flow in it will understand what is on the right. It is assumed that 3 whites for tension = 6 whites for tension. Be careful about every problem, so as not to confuse the formula for calculating the noise level of the ULF fan. Zazkova table of noise intensity comparison:

• 1 dB = 1.25 smash
• 3 dB = 2 smash
• 6 dB = 4 smash
• 9 dB = 8 once
• 10 dB = 10 once
• 20 dB = 100 once
• 30 dB = 1000 once

The added (added) dB value indicates the multiplication (division) of the waters themselves. Negative dB values ​​indicate gate drains. For example, a change in tension by 40 times is 4*10 times or -6dB-10dB=-16dB. Increased pressure in 128 times is 2 7 or 3 dB * 7 = 21 dB. An increase in voltage by 4 times is equivalent to an increase in tension by 4*4=16 times, which is 2^4 or 3dB*4=12dB.

Further, our ear differently perceives sounds that have a different level of intensity, and a different frequency: sounds with low and high frequencies sound quieter, and those with lower mid-frequencies have the same intensity. Therefore, in the world of noise, the uneven sensitivity of the human ear to sounds of different frequencies must be modulated with the help of special frequency filters, which are called the world of sound. The value has been removed as a result of the adjustment dba. There's a writer here A means that the value of the sound is taken from the vicors of the type A frequency filter, which is the most widened at this type extinct.

In this case, another problem is that people have a non-existent device and it is generally possible to introduce a scale of subjectivity for the level of noise (for a normal, average person) based on the power of the ear to the intensity of the noise:

• 1 dBA - between the differences between changes in volume (such a change in the level of sound can be noted only when the intensity changes to rise sharply, perhaps mittovo, with a smooth change in intensity in 1-2 seconds and more becomes invisible for a large number of people)
• 3 dBA - marked change is introduced (the change varies with a smooth change in intensity over a period of 4-6 seconds)
• 6 dBA - intensity change (to smoothly increase the intensity over a couple of tens of seconds without knocking anyone out of the panel)
• 10 dBA - subjective change in noise level (absolutely clear difference, so that after a year you enter a room with equal noise, and having moved by 10 dBA, you will immediately say - it has become noisier)

Well, a couple more passages on the topic of noise, so move on to complete it:

Appropriately to Moscow's small towns sanitary standards the noise in the apartment from 7 to 11 pm does not have to exceed 40 dBA, and from 11 pm to 7 pm - 30 dBA. dBA at night.

It should be noted that, based on the research on previous volunteers, sleep disturbances begin even after a noise level of 25 dBA (!). When the noise level is increased to 40 dBA, 10% of people wake up, and above 50 dBA, 50% have their sleep interrupted.

Reduction in noise due to larger distances is expected from a geometric progression, then. If we expect noise with an intensity of 40 dBA at a height of 1 m, then at a height of 2 m the noise intensity falls 2x2 = 4 times (at 6 dBA) and becomes 34 dBA, and at a height of 4 m 4x4 = 16 times (12dBA) = 28dBA. Heh.., why am I now sleeping with a noise intensity a little more than 40 dBA. In the winter, perhaps, it will no longer be masked by the noise behind the subordinate window.