How to replace the backlight lamps on a TV. Kit for replacing CCFL lamps on old monitors with LEDs. Tools required to replace the backlight lamp

I would also like to ask you to contact the “PMS” contact, which goes from the head board to the life block or, by extension, from the life block to the head board. Can't you figure out his role?
I don’t need to bother, because I also want to get into it. I'm hanging a monitor on a swivel bracket and I want to power it from a standard TFX housing unit in a case in which a new computer will be installed (with not very new components, with DDR3L memory and a 3rd generation Intel processor nya: ). Today I conducted an experiment by supplying 5V, 12V and minus from the flop socket to the disk drive from the computer's life block. The monitor normally requested and then turned on and beeped at the power button (I note that the PMS sends a signal to the life block about the shutdown of the inverter or the inverter and the head board at the same time). We simply hang the monitor above the bedside table and place it there, so it is much easier to power up this type of life block, and moreover, by introducing a two-phase switch into the life block, which simultaneously switches on zero and phase (then the computer 'Your no longer needs to imitate sockets). And if you run a 220V cord directly to the monitor, then there are more wires, plus more hassle with switching on / plugging in, and the CCD of the living unit will not be much lower (the total energy accumulated during the life of the computer living unit will decrease ~5-10 V t) . Life unit with "GOLD" certificate, Sea Sonic Electronics SSP-300TGS Active PFC 300W. Therefore, I need to know how to trigger the “PMS” signal, since it won’t be critical if it is present on the monitor’s live block?

I also conducted an experiment with “PMS” today. This contact is supplied with 2794 volts and only when the monitor is running. If the monitor goes to sleep or the button on the front panel blinks, then “PMS” immediately drops to zero. And so it turned out that the first cat sees 5 volts 1.5 amperes, and the other sees 12 volts 1.2 amperes (for powering the headplate) and 12 volts 3 amperes (for powering the inverter). So, whenever the monitor is turned on or off, 12 volts disappear from both lines, and 5 volts are supplied for the entire hour while the monitor is plugged into the outlet and the main power supply supplies 220 volts to the power supply unit (perhaps 5 volts goes to the head board and suddenly the stench is needed to display the monitor in the wash mode).
So, what is more for all the “PMS” still comes from the head pay to the life block and is required to launch a high-pressure cat, but you still want to know the opinion of an expert, which is why I judge only from practice and from logical guesses.

And if it is possible, then I have three more lies before you.
1) You can’t see the 12 volts coming from the life block to the head board, it’s okay that 12 volts will be supplied continuously during the hour of sleep or when the monitor is turned off through the button on the head panel. As I have already written above, 5 volts are supplied to the power supply unit continuously, and the 12 volt axis is supplied only during the operation of the monitor. I just want to make sure that 12 volts does not damage the main board during the hour of sleep and when the monitor is on.

2) Based on the system unit, I want to implement LED switching with brightness control behind an additional changeable support in order to eliminate the PWM of the diodes at low brightness (minutes). I understand that the rooms will heat up more, resulting in CCD (slight increase in energy absorption), but the health of the eyes is more important. I myself don’t know how to properly unpack the changeable resistor that needs to be placed in the lance due to the tightness. According to the printer, the accumulated energy of the stitch is 9.6 watts per meter. The stitches are cut at a distance of 5 cm, and my matrix requires two cuttings of 45 cm, for a total of 90 cm. And according to the manufacturer’s claim (which I don’t even trust) it works at 12 volts 800 milliamperes per meter , minus 10 % = 720 milliamps. It would be better to use a full supply of power, preferably 2-3 amperes. I would also like to install an additionally variable support in the lance, so that at maximum brightness (where the changeable support feeds the food directly), the output would not be 12 volts, but 10.5 - 11 volts, no more. It is necessary that the LEDs do not overheat at maximum brightness, and also increase the term of their service, the next time you disassemble the monitor and the matrix box, you are still satisfied.

If it’s not easy, write the number or model (I don’t know how to correctly) of the replacement support (it is necessary with a handle, as with the flexibility of acoustic systems, because in the back of the monitor there is a place where it can be indicated) and how many ohms (Navit lower kOhm) and Watt use a “simple” source, which further reduces the voltage from 12 volts to 10-11 volts.

3) It is also necessary to know the location in the main board where you can get 12 volts for the power supply, so that the power supply disappears when the monitor is turned off from the switch button and to sleep mode. I myself can use a tester to find out 12 volts, which disappear when the monitor is turned off or asleep, but I’m afraid that the stench will pass through any resistor or transistor, which can burn out due to the additional supply of 0.7-.08 amperes.

For many years now I have been choosing the most compact computer possible using standard components (a standard power supply unit, a standard motherboard, a processor, VP memory, and a laptop drive). Having installed the "RESET" button on the peak, which rejects the indicators, replacing the poor black indicator of the computer with a warm orange one, installing the DVD drive (so that there is no noise unnecessarily when the computer is turned on) and powering up the speakers, and also attaching to the peak there is a booster and a tension regulator. It was impossible to wait until the anti-filter filters arrived on the housing and the housing unit and the 6-pin connector for removing the speakers from the housing and indicating their operation. I plan to screw the speakers to the bottom of the monitor body, and display their indicators on the bottom of the speaker body (at both times the lower plexiglass will light up). Already quiet, that I had lost a little hemorrhoids before the completion of this Frankenstein, and then they called me and said that the monitor had stopped working. The delay was very strong: (
Therefore, I want to do everything as reliably as possible, so that it works for a long time and does not cause any more trouble, at least 10 o_o.

P.S.
Thank you for the poor food, I’m just afraid I’ll burn the monitor’s main board through unknown means. Doctors, that this model has not been released for more than 10 years (and as I have already written, there are no alternatives to it, because currently there are only two models on IPS matrices, on VA it is already a long time ago, especially on PVA), but buy the same B / In a good situation, it is practically not possible (in Moscow and St. Petersburg they rarely appear for sale). If you buy it remotely, you will be able to see the darkness or stains of the matrix, as well as the bits or pixels that burned. I Kolya, by swimming through the AVITO OTH 2190UXP, seller of PITERA, PITERA, ShO Matritsa in Ideal, and if the Monitor was a mentor, whistled at the nyo lamp, they didn’t get into the nyoye, I did not manage to the nyoye) , I removed two bits of pixels (fortunately, the pixels are not in the center of the screen and on the VA matrix they are not so noticeable, their fathers do not mark them).

Hello everyone! For whom I have learned how to convert a monitor up to 24" on a LED backlight. For which a set of these LED lines and a conversion was ordered a long time ago, it was sent to the first seller that I found . Make fun of the one who packs well)
I am refurbishing the Benq q7t4 monitor.


Well, the monitor has stopped moving. Let’s take a look at the beginning and look at the life block.
The skin monitor is disassembled in different ways, ringing on the clips. Mine has screws + clamps.


The call is all garazd, but the confidante of the fires. In the photo I replaced yogo.


On the right it appeared in the transistor on the radiator - through a short circuit. Changeable.

If you want to check the high-voltage capacitor and not for nothing, it must be replaced

The monitor began to roll, and the lamps lit up for a second and shut down. When all lamps are turned on, the shutdown is not activated.
We can change the lighting.
To replace it, it is necessary to remove the matrix. The matrix layout is identical for all of them
I take the chance. For which, tighten the screws on the sides.


I understand the protection of the headplate.


I remove the metal frame that trims the matrix itself. There, around the perimeter, it is trimmed on the wedges

Now we carefully remove the board from its place and stop it hanging on the cables. Be careful not to tear them!


Now turn it over, pressing the matrix so that it doesn’t fall out. It's still a little glued to the plastic frame, but it doesn't deserve to be removed.


We remove the matrix and place it in a clean place. I put it on papier a4.


Now we remove the plastic frame and let it rest on the clamps. Kutku won in me was angry, no big deal


Next comes light-colored swimsuits and orgsklo. The swimsuits may or may not be collected. I learned a lot from them at once.


Removable lamp housing


We pull the lamps themselves


The line itself with LEDs is designed for installation in a monitor with a diagonal of up to 24". For installation in a monitor with a smaller diagonal, you need to shorten it. For this purpose there are marks on the reverse.

Use a squeegee to seal and glue onto the 2-sided tape. I used 0.3mm thin tape

Now let’s put everything back in order. Be gentle, so that you don’t ruin the brood under the spilt. Otherwise, it is clearly visible on light aphids.
It was impossible to connect the transformation itself to the life block.


Also, right-handed, there are contacts for connection.
VIN – life support.
ENA - this contact confirms that it is turned on/off
DIM - this contact receives an analog brightness control signal from the main board.
GND - underground


Well, it’s not at all difficult to find food. It is necessary to know the location where the supply voltage for the inverter is located. I have unplugged the inverter switch (indicated by an arrow), thereby unplugging it myself, and soldering the contact of the inverter. Well, the unnecessary parts were soldered off - anyway, they are no longer needed for the work.


Now you need to know the contacts and the brightness control on the board. And I marvel at the scheme.
The stinks are located on the sockets to which the monitor's main board is connected.
BRT_ADJ - brightness control
BL_ON - on/off

We know them on the board, we find out with the help of a multimeter there is 1 contact on either side of the connector.
Well, let’s get to the required contacts.


Now I can no longer connect the light strips and glue them to a free place in the middle of the monitor.
UVAGA! It was a good idea to check the LEDs before installing them in the monitor, otherwise I had forgotten about it. I was spared, but you may have a few LEDs and not burn out. This must be checked before installation.


Well, the monitor is turned off and turned off. Everything asked for the brightness control to be inverted (that is, 0 is the maximum brightness, 100 is the minimum). But it’s not at all critical.


There are no common highlights/irregularities, although the photo looks softer. It's not like that! Any colored fabric is not warm. This can be corrected by adjustments in the monitor.

Working with your own hands, as well as using electrical equipment, is no longer relevant today. It is much cheaper to replace a sealed part yourself than to pay for a professional repairman. Moreover, repairs are often not as easy as they appear at first glance. Today's article will look at such a situation as replacing old lamps on the monitor with a more modern lightening solution - a single strip of light.

Monitor with one LED light

In order for such a replacement to be successful, it is necessary to know the sequence of actions, as well as any nuances that this statistics contains.

Reasons for replacing the light socket

Today, rare crystal monitors that light up the screen are actively being researched. They replaced older models of monitors that had less detail. Regardless of the high level of technology, such devices are in some cases equipped with switches based on old-style lamps. And, apparently, the old ladies of the world were not bothered by the trivial term “work”. That’s why it’s often good to use such electrical devices to switch on the lighting itself. This breakdown is not easy for the monitor, so you need to contact the fakivists for help. You can do all the repairs yourself.

Red crystal monitor

Given the presence of a large number of monitor generators, similar devices operate on a single principle. It’s very easy, as long as you know the operating principle of one monitor, you can very easily use another model with another monitor. If you didn’t find the necessary detail when examining it at the primary location, there’s no need to worry, it’s hidden nearby and with careful examination you’ll clearly see it.

Should we change to LED?

Today, the most popular and popular product is light-emitting diode products. Moreover, the greatest expansion occurred in the light-colored lines.

Light one line

In a situation where there is a need to replace old manufactured lamps in the monitor, the choice falls on this type of product for the following reasons:

  • The service life of the LEDs has expired. If connected correctly, stinks can be produced without a visible decrease in the brightness of the world for up to 10 years! Today we cannot boast of such a term of exploitation in every day of the world;
  • Such stitches form a base that is self-adhesive and can be easily attached to any surface or placed on the back of the monitor;
  • Light-emitting diodes produce a bright light stream, which is well received by a person’s visual analyzer. In case of heavy work, the monitor and LED lights are practically not turned on;
  • The candle can be absolutely whatever it is;

Increase your respect! Despite the fact that there is a great choice of stitching and lighting type, for illumination of the monitor it is recommended to choose more calm and neutral colors (for example, white or yellow).

Light LED stitch

  • Light strips are sold in packs of 5 meters. Wash this completely to create an efficient and clear monitor backlight;
  • The simplicity of connecting the power supply to the electrical device is remarkable;
  • Low energy consumption due to the high fashionability of the light fixture. Set the light strips to operate at a voltage of 12 or 24 V;
  • The presence of strong heating of the diodes during the hour of operation. This is a very important point, because through severe overheating, the lamps initially used in the monitor design will fail. Warto note that the lamps of the old design often go out of tune through the switching on/off parts of the electrical appliance. But the axis for LEDs is not such an important parameter;
  • Stitch resistance to mechanical and vibration injections, which minimizes the risk of distortion during operation of the device.

As a matter of fact, replacing the old lamps in the monitor with a modern light strip will give a lot of positive aspects in the future when repairing the monitor.

Assessment of the collapsibility of failure

First of all, before installing the LED strip into the monitor, you need to open it and evaluate the level of its usefulness. Situations may arise when not only the backlight lamp burns out, but other important components of the electrical circuit fail. To identify all obvious problems and then evaluate the possibility of self-repair, you need to first unscrew the monitor and identify the causes of the breakdown.

Monitor matrix backlight lamp

The monitor matrix backlight lamps go out of order for the following reasons:

  • the presence of a sprout of the flowering plant;
  • There was physical damage to the lamps from the inheritance of the fall, or the impact of any object;
  • there was a short circuit on the metal parts of the lamp and matrix frame;
  • The backlight lamps simply expired and burned out.

By unscrewing the monitor, you can visually identify the malfunction of such lamps, as well as identify the reason that caused this type of failure.
In order to replace lamps, it is clear that you need to know the operating principle of the rare crystal matrix, which is built into any type of daily monitor.

The principle of operation of the RK matrix

In modern monitors, all RK matrices follow the principle of transmission. This means that the device can function as a light fixture, which allows the matrix to be translucent through.

Increase your respect! The monitor's brightness depends on the type of light switch.

Types of matrix illumination

For televisions and stationary RC displays, the direct type of switching is now often used. This means that the light source (LED and lamp) is distributed throughout the entire flat panel. In this case, to illuminate the RK matrix in current settings, two blocks are used, each of which is made up of two lamps. The stench is rotting from the bottom and beast of the monitor. As a result, they are placed in such a manner as to create uniform illumination of the RK matrix. This design allows the backlight to respond to the situation if one of the lamps is out of order. This is where the problem begins, since the inverter is responsible for storing the lamps.

Inverter for lighting lamps

When one lamp stops working, the inverter “starts up” so that the backlight has lost its uniformity. As a result, the inverter will stop working so as not to cause further switching problems. Thus, the inverter itself is the reason why, after one of the 4 lamps goes out of work, the lighting continues to function for many hours.
Now that we have understood everything that needs to be known about the monitor's output, we can begin to disassemble and replace the old lamps with a single line of LEDs.

Assembling: instructions

The layout of the monitor is as follows:

  • All cables are connected to the inverter block and to the monitor controller;

Type of loops

  • for additional help, unscrew the device;
  • we clean the back panel together with the controller and the life block;

Increase your respect! In some places, you will need to lift slightly to remove the back panel.

Monitor without back panel

  • It will take a long time to unscrew the attachment. In this way we get to the matrix (on the little one it is marked with the number 5), the decoder (6) and the light guide with light filters (7);

Monitor matrix

  • After this you need to remove the plastic frame around the perimeter. Under it there will be two thin strips, lying one on top of the other. The light guide is visible underneath them. The photo shows a light filter (8), a polarizing filament (9) and a light guide (10);

Matrix components

  • faulty lamps will be detected under the light guide;
  • Before twisting them, it is necessary to pull out the light-colored lining. However, this step is not required for the skin monitor.

If you find that the lamps are missing, you will be able to identify the cause of the lighting failure. If the lights have burned out, then their ends will be blackened. Also, the lamp itself could become damaged under mechanical pressure.

LED installation: step-by-step instructions

If you have reached the wrong highlight, then your next steps will look like this by replacing them with a light line:

  • we remove old lamps from their “grooves”;
  • Before work, it is absolutely necessary to check the power supply of the inverter so as not to remove the power;
  • For this we know 12 volts. A couple of electrolytic capacitors are placed along the lancus. Next, we identify the track that goes directly to the inverter microcircuits and cut it;

Increase your respect! The inverter must be properly installed.

  • At this groove, carefully glue one light strip

Gluing a light-colored strip

  • For illumination, use a light-colored line that has a neutral-white type of illumination. In terms of width, it is recommended to select the model with minimal parameters. In addition, it is necessary to select a line for such a parameter as the number of LEDs per meter of space. There are no less than 120 pieces;
  • If the stitch is glued, we remove the arrows from it and check the entire accessory for proper operation. The new light switch can be powered using a 12 V connector. In search of such an exit, it is important to read the symbols on the board. The stench of signatures stinks obov'yazkovo. You can also find jumpers on the board, which supply 12 volts. For them, to liven up the stitch, it will be necessary to simply solder the darts to the new candle;

Connecting a page before living on the monitor

  • But here there is a problem when the light switch is turned on. In this case, it is possible to regulate the brightness of the candle;
  • To change this situation, you need to know how to regulate the brightness of the light. The “ON” icon turns on/off the switch. Apparently the matrix light is turned on, at whose output there will be approximately 3 volts. Brightness controls the display of "DIM". You can adjust the brightness here by additionally changing the intensity of the PWM signal. To adjust the brightness, it is necessary to connect one LED line behind the N-channel “field”. A “DIM” signal is sent to the gate through a small resistor (100...200 ohms) of this part.

Increase your respect! "Polivik" can be taken from an old motherboard.

"Poloviki" on the motherboard

At this point, the installation of a LED strip in the monitor and replacement of old and defective lamps can be completed. Please collect all the details and purchase them. Please be aware that once the replacement is completed, you will lose all parts. As soon as the stench was gone, they didn’t turn around.
If the monitor is selected, you need to check the result of your work and evaluate the uniformity of the monitor matrix backlight.

If the TV light is on frequently, or when you don’t work, then straight hands, a set of screws, a soldering iron and a few meters of light-emitting diode thread turn out to be a lover of your homeland.

Obviously, a number of lighting lamps are not working. This year the stench will disappear and the TV can no longer be used in radio mode. Let us be grateful for the unforeseen support. More precisely, replace the old CCFL-switching on the current LED.

How about changing CCFL to LED?

My standard CCFL-switching is monstrous, but tends to be miraculous, as it consists of inverters (which seem to be unsafe for voltage), switching lamps (thin and creaky), heavy-duty metal screens for safety and wires. c. And what was wrong there - I can’t tell. Perhaps you need to replace the lamps (150 carbs per piece, and there are 16 of them). Maybe a faulty inverter (it’s hard to find the same one for sure, and the price is over 1000 rubles apiece). Zagalom, lottery.

And the LED backlight consists of a light strip (1000 rubles for five meters), connecting wires (found in stock) and any kind of life supply, such as 12V (found locally).

Good news for savers: If you are ready to spend some money, then buy a light strip on Aliexpress. This is more important twice.

Preparation before replacing the light bulb

First of all, stock up on screwdrivers of all types and sizes. You will also need a soldering iron and a soldering iron. And you also need a few years at a leisurely hour (I’ve had about six years at a leisurely pace). And there is already a lot of good time to sort out all the components of the TV and not waste anything.

Once you are ready, there is no where to go, read!

One light strip for TB illumination

Having bought an original light-colored stitch from a local store, without worrying about the characteristics, the warmth of the color and other things. I simply had no options. More precisely, there were two: either a line for 60 LEDs (three LEDs per 5cm section), or a line for 120 LEDs (three LEDs per 25mm) – all in one meter. I chose another: so the gap between the diodes is smaller, and the line behind the space can be cut more accurately.

Having connected all five meters of the line to the lifeline. Having said that, the liquid stream is collected at 1A.

Of course, the page from the store contains all the certificates and parameters specified in the instructions. The line will have a tail for connecting until life is completed, and you will be able to use it for good.

We are looking for Philips Flat Tv 30pf9975

The back cover is fastened with 16 screws around the perimeter, 6 more are recessed in deep wells, 2 more are above the main block of sockets and 1 on the side block of sockets. 25 gwents of the “star” type at a time.

After removing the crusts, let's look at this picture.

Here you can clearly see two tight beams that mount the TV, they also need to be removed. On the left beam, under the metal cover, there is a pair of backlight inverters. Let's take a look, there are the most important "plus" gwents.

We remove the inverter from all outlets and carefully remove the offending boards. I’m guessing that the inverters get quite hot during operation, which is why their boards are installed on a thermal pad. The gasket is not adhesive, but rather bulky, so the board needs to be subtended and completely pressed against the thermal gasket. You can try to poke the gasket with a knife, if it's good enough, it won't work.

It is best to place the inverter board on the side of the contacts on the backlight lamps; there is no thermal pad there.

Now, if the high-voltage unsafe inverters are removed, we connect the TV to the limit, take a multimeter in our hands and check all the contacts in search of the safe 12V line. It is important that this line only operates when the TV is turned down and does not operate in stand-by mode. Let's check the basic principles of inverter life first.

Inverters operate at 24V, which is a bummer. And the axis board that enhances sound, in addition to everything else, outputs 12V. We sleep with it.

12V is taken from the sound booster. Ground on the black pole (far right), +12V on the left contact or on the fourth, swaying from the ground. It's easier to solder until the fourth. Therefore, we take a connector that, having reached our line, is soldered to the power supply. The wire can be squeezed between the capacitors on the board.

Before we get into all the trouble, let’s connect the line and check it, and remove the line from the booster in order to live the entire line. And what is the correct way of illumination?

Hooray! The line lights up when the TV is turned down. І do not light up when in stand-by mode. Now is the time to uninstall the TV and replace the CCFL back-up with a single LED line.

We know everything that can be known. We charge the main fee.

We remove the life block and the additional board to the life block, and we remove the sound booster board.

An additional matrix cable will appear under the life block. We know yogo. The adhesive tape is there only because I already took apart the TV. The dark brown trimach is pulled up and the train is twisted.

After this, you can remove the metal casing, which contains the power switching board. This board and additional cable to the inverters can be removed. The casing is the same.

We must continue to disassemble and unscrew the docks until you can pull out the central part with the screen from the TV.

Here we screw in 14 screws along the edges of the metal frame and remove them.

Now we unscrew the screws from the plastic frame. Then we carefully pull together the cables of the matrix (after first removing the metal casing from the gate side from the circuit board, which can be seen in the photo at the top left corner) and remove them.

Be careful with the matrix!

The matrix cannot be bent, so be very careful and place it on a flat surface.

Under the matrix there will be two thin matte linings (do not confuse their order), an plexiglass lining and a backlight!

Standing on the sides of the light, I sucked the darts of the lamps and pulled them out of the hummers (otherwise you would only drink them). It turned out like this.

Let's try our line after the place of installation.

There are 625 mm of stitches left, so five meters should be stitched in exactly 8 cuts. Therefore, the sockets will be there where the plastic sockets of CCFL lamps stand. Let's take the trimach. The plastic pins can also be broken.

And now we move to the laboratory. We cut the stitch into 8 sections of 625 mm leather, lay it in a snake and then solder it. Don't forget to adjust the polarity!

After soldering, we carefully check our snake, check the polarity, and then glue the stitch in place of the old candle.

It turned out to be wrong. However, how to choose between everything you want and what you want, then “and so it goes.” Now let’s put everything back in order. The old light fixture will lose all the necessary parts: inverters, cables, dry metal casings and mounting screws. And the middle of the TV will become more spacious, so.

To restore my respect: I won’t cut the wire short until I get to dinner. In the future, you will be able to install a replacement resistor on the case and add brightness. And now the cable is laid in the old fastening of the inverter cables.

In the near future, in the place of inverters, you can accommodate a smart-TV board or some kind of Raspberry Pi, there is enough space here.

We pick up the TV, hang it on the wall, connect all the cables and see. In response to CCFL lamps, which shine on all sides, a single line of light gives a direct light, so that against a monochromatic background it is slightly noticeable.

If I bought an LED stitch on AliExpress, then for the same 1000 rubles I could buy two five-meter skeins and produce 16, not 8 threads. There would be more even illumination. Hello, as I said earlier, here you go. Just make up for what happened.

LED backlighting is practically indistinguishable from a variety of backgrounds, so you can watch TV shows comfortably.

Now about the shortcomings. The brightness of the backlight cannot be adjusted. Give all the drinks an average level of brightness. I plan to add another 5 meters of signal in order to create a more equal world, but... I’ll be honest, it’s too lazy to repeat outside of the rich variety of TV. If possible...

And now for the big news: the TV lost 1100 grams. The axle has all the details on the parts.

I successfully sold all these parts at auction. I turned in 10 rubles. But the buyer found out that 90% of the problems were with the backlight lamps, so it would be enough to replace them... If you know, the facts are the same - I did it anyway.


Even better is a little like and repost, and many thanks to the comments. For these reasons, comments are disabled, and repost buttons are followed by you. Please feel free to comment :)

The time has come to talk about the most common breakdown of current RK televisions. Today call – our service center accepts calls from the following:

  • There is no image on the screen
  • The screen went dark and the sound stopped
  • No pictures
  • Merecht image
  • No visibility
  • TB blinks like a red light
  • The image has disappeared

Typically, LCD panels have two types of lighting – lamp and LED:

  • Lamps are small electroluminescent lamps, their design similar to those found in brightened industrial and office spaces. TV panels, in which the stench stagnates, are greeted with a welcoming, warm picture.
  • The LED has strips on which the LEDs are soldered. They are affected by low energy lamps. Images with this type of distortion tend to produce a colder and brighter picture.

Higher in the picture of the developments is the main component of the lamp backlight of the matrix, and below that is the LED backlight strip.

At this time, lamp illumination technology is not installed in the current RKI matrix. This is due to the light trend towards energy saving and ecology. The lamps sparkle with great energy and glow with mercury. Rozmov knows, inclusively, about the repair of the light-emitting diode (LED) switchboard.

There are two types of LED lighting:

  • Direct LED – The design feature of this solution is the placement of several horizontal and vertical rows of light-emitting strips on the reverse side of the matrix. The advantages of this design are the uniformity of the image illumination and the ability to selectively highlight the brightness of the illumination in different parts of the screen, which has a positive effect on the brightness of the image. Reduce brightness in the darker part of the image, or, as a result, increase in brightness to give colors more contrast. The main drawback of this engineering approach is the TV industry.
  • EDGE LED – Rotating one or two slats on the sides or bottom of the panel allows you to design especially thin TVs. The disadvantages of this technology are slight dimming around the corners of the screen.

At the top part in the photo there is a Direct Led component, at the bottom there is an EDGE LED. Regain respect like worn-out lenses and doors. At the back, a lighted stench will shine at the back and in the back.


This is what the Direct Led backlight looks like in the middle of the TV panel.

Let's talk about the main reasons for the burnout of the LED lighting:

  • The main reason for the release of LED diodes is that manufacturers are forced to work at the peak of their parameters, which leads to accelerated burnout. We can’t believe that technology vendors are so specially spoiled, otherwise suspicions may be in our heads.
  • Another terrible enemy of the Diodes is power cuts and thunderstorms. Often, after such incidents, a powerful reaction emerges. In the spring and in the hour of thunderstorms, the number of equipment with such defects that require repairs is significantly increasing.
  • Also, it is sometimes obvious that this is a factory factory. Defective modules were installed from the factory or were overheated during factory soldering. Chinese brandies are especially bad. We don’t want to put pressure on the Chinese radio manufacturers, otherwise the repair of such radio-electronic equipment often takes a lot of trouble. This is due to the existence of such strict unification as in Korean producers.
  • One LED that burns out can often be the cause of a burnt-out light. It is acceptable that there are 18 LEDs with an operating voltage of 6 volts. For normal operation, it is necessary for the LEDs to have 18X6 = 72 (seventy-two volts). When one LED comes out, the light switch does not short-circuit due to the zener diode in the LED housing. When you go to 17 LEDs, which are no longer available, you get 72 volts, which tends to quickly burn out, if another LED dies, then all the same voltage comes to 16. And so don’t turn everything on yet, otherwise you will activate the strum protection of the control driver and turn on the backlighting.

There are no types of light strips. Most often, in one TV model and matrix there can be a number of completely different types of slats. This may depend on a number of factors:

  • The site of TB transmission, however, the panel model may be affected by the site of TB transmission. Russian, European and Chinese assembly can be highly differentiated by the type of components that are selected.
  • However, the new model may have matrices of different detectors and different strips.
  • The date of production - the plant during the production cycle, you can change the constructive warehouse. A trivial reason for installing different spare parts may be the lack of necessary spare parts in the factory’s warehouse (screw as much as possible). In fact, sometimes you have to be very careful with your customers to find out the necessary spare part. And we are now stocking our local warehouse with the largest possible range of units needed for repairs.

To recap, all these brackets can be installed in one Samsung TV model. The importance of only the time and place of collection (Europe, Russia and China). The strips are completely differentiated by the type of selected LEDs, lenses, dozhniy and krok.

Light-emitting diodes do not allow us to please us with their versatility, they are divided:

  • By the force of the struma
  • tensely
  • Cases
  • Rotating the Maidanchikov anode and cathode
  • Soldering parameters
  • Service term
  • Color temperature match

Please pay attention to the extent to which the hulls are damaged.


Contact Maidans also express their diversity. In addition to everything else in the same housing, the anode and cathode can be adjusted in two ways. Often, for masters who are not familiar with such nuances, repairs end up with high-voltage illumination when the LEDs are soldered at the wrong polarity.

As a rule, we use original LEDs, spinned in New Korea. For Chinese TVs, you will need to use Chinese LEDs, except for the occasional replacement. In such situations, the Chinese texts are changed to Korean ones, because I am looking for the reliability of the rest.

Replacing LEDs here involves a highly labor-intensive process. Resoldering the entire lamp, which consists of 50 LEDs, usually takes one business day, it is much easier to install new strips.

Frequent replacement of LEDs (replacing only the bright ones) will keep you busy. After an hour, the fragments begin to die out. The result will result in new skin repair within 1 – 2 months.

After repairing the power supply, approximately 25 hundred meters of power supply are interconnected to increase service life. This is the recommendation of the manufacturing plants, which is based on the appearance of the bulletins at the authorized service centers. Again, there are negative thoughts for manufacturers who at factories set the highest operating modes of factories, and if such equipment comes with a guarantee, it will be a pleasure to use Primus, on the hardware level of exchange work.

For proper repairs, only original strips are repaired to the manufacturer's factory.


Above in the photo you can see original spare parts for Samsung TVs. Due to the negative evidence that non-original components are being used, it is important to use the original Repair Kit as soon as possible.

Being professional masters, we are periodically called upon to perform such repairs on other service centers. Below we will provide photographs of such recent applications of service by competent masters with selected components of a dubious approach.


Instead of a complete replacement of spare parts, the tops of the original ones were soldered to the visor parts of the used strips. Due to the heat dissipation, the stench persisted for 3 months. Before that, the lenses were glued with Chinese “superglue”, as a result of which terrible spots appeared on the screen. Vlasnik was greeted with unwelcome greetings.


This motorized robot was assembled in one of the “budinki buildings”. Not knowing the necessary spare parts, the master decided to cut the lighting from other strips. The planks were poorly glued to the body, as a result of which it began to burn out again, without lasting for three months. We have provided a replacement with a full warranty. The deputies brought us some home-made tomatoes from outside.


Another excellent butt of the master's skeletal robot. Due to the installation of non-original spare parts, the lighting became poor and the screen became a little bright. I had a chance to change the lighting again. We ask readers to place the lens on the calamute, so that it is glued with cyanoacrylate. As a result of evaporation of the glue, the lens became calamute; for such work it is necessary to evaporate epoxy adhesives.


The creativity of a rural radio mechanic. The careless master managed to damage the matrix by damaging the cable. Only at the cost of great efforts did we manage to turn this TV into life. The client, in a very short form, recognized the specialist who carried out the repairs before us.


The butt of one known Minsk service. After the repair, the TV was not used for two months. The gentlemen delivered it under warranty, and it was there for 2 months. Statute of permanent transfers of repair terms, the Vlasniks took the TV and handed it over to our service center. The next day, the TV will be ready to receive customers. I had to completely change the switching kit.


Another robot of the would-be masters did not last even two months. The insert was properly glued to the pallet, resulting in a shorter service life. The client asked us to completely replace the indicator status due to permanent repairs at questionable masters.


Instead, in order to change all the LEDs or replace the strips, the master, having cut and folded the strips, took nearly a month. Over the next few years, we replaced all the work of the front-line specialist and gave the assistant a long-term guarantee, after which we are completely satisfied.


And then glue the lenses one more time. As a result, there are stale streaks on the screen. Judging by the color of the glue, songs of unacceptable associations come to mind. Moreover, this glue does not touch the lenses; by the time the TV came for repair, most of it had crumbled, making the picture even worse.


The guys also managed to replace the original LEDs for emitting TV LEDs, which are used in lamps. In order to create such a collective, you will need to spend a lot of time - adding LEDs and glue, carrying out repairs and diagnostics. And as a result, you will have to give up an unclear job, having wasted both your own and your assistant’s hour. If you just needed to install an original spare part from the manufacturing plant, it is not so difficult to find in specialized stores.


And then the master could not properly glue the insert, as, before, from another TV. Procedurally 2 years ago and it was wrong - when the assistants began to call the agents to ask for warranty repairs, they were convinced, motivating them, that they had not given a guarantee for their work. Having returned to us, the client completed the repair over a period of three years and has an honest guarantee for all repairs.


And we helped such a robot - having acquired the device, having visited one scandalous service, which periodically becomes the hero of the statistics of the popular site Onliner. The whole list is the fight against Chinese TB. The peculiarity of the Chinese engineering thought lies in the fact that, as adopted by the Koreans, the sheets are not fastened with knots, but are glued with double-sided tape. Maistri with “hands from shoulders”, instead of carefully cutting the leaf, began to pull it, tearing it completely. Not wanting to do anything similar, they decided to combine from what was obvious, as a result of which the axis of such a miracle was taken away.


Here's a summary of our statistics:

  • Z Replacing the LEDs may cause the device to vibrate completely; replacing only those that burn out will result in a short service life for the vibrator.
  • The best way to replace the switching components is with strips.
  • Install only original components. Savings have a negative impact on performance characteristics.
  • It is necessary to carefully select equipment to carry out repairs. An incorrect choice can result in financial and time wastage.
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