High-tension power booster "Lanzar" (monoblock for cars). The simplest sound booster The most powerful professional booster in the world
Inspired by natural sounds
Kozhen is a music lover, although he is a garniy and yakisniy podsiluvach. And whoever wondered what kind of hard-working everyday supporter is victorious in the world? And such a one! "Rereaux Eloquence 250i" is a powerful integral booster with a power output of 350 W per channel. The sound of this booster is pure and natural. This brilliance is its main feature. This model of the booster will delight music lovers with its simplicity and mass of possibilities.
Universal system
The system can be connected to any device (computer, music server, digital receiver, game console, home theater). The intuitive interface is specially designed for this application. Adding to the classic design. The aluminum panel is 18 mm thick. This model has a USB input and various optical inputs. The Perreaux Eloquence 250i booster has its own neutral sound character, which makes it possible to realize such a great potential of tension.
The secret of functionality
The functionality of the booster can also be expanded by replacing different blocks of the digital-to-analog converter. Models that have a digital-to-analog converter with an output characteristic of 24 bit/192 kHz. The sound of the speaker is enhanced by detail and minimal sideliness – a quality that music lovers appreciate again. Exquisite design, high strength of folding and wonderful modern appearance - it’s simply impossible to get used to this model.
The boost is a harmonic coefficient of 0.002%, the noise signal is about 98 dB, the weight is 19.5 kg. This powerhouse is the most powerful in the world - at the moment we can’t boast of such characteristics. Comments from people about the booster model “Rereaux Eloquence 250i” are only positive.
Supervisors in other classes
Of course, for special minds and non-home victors, you can find higher-powered sound boosters, such as the Turbosound T-90, which can reach 4500 W at either 4 Ohm or 8000 W at 2 Ohm. Until the day-to-day class, these people are no longer struggling.
I have lost respect that the price of the "Rereaux Eloquence 250i" is close to 300 thousand. rubles
Peredmova
After purchasing the MAGNAT AD300 subwoofer head, it became clear that the old guy behind the Chivilch circuit was clearly not enough. That's why Vinik decided to create something new. The new criteria are the apparently high output effort and ability of the work at low pressure.
Functionally, the power booster consists of four blocks, reversing the voltage, the filter unit, the protection unit and, apparently, the power booster itself. Let's talk briefly about each of them.
Change the voltage
The main part of any booster is the body of life. It is clear that 12 volts from the battery is clearly not enough to remove high output voltage. Therefore, you first need to create a voltage changer that allows you to reduce the bipolarity of +-60V with a voltage of at least 400W. Having scoured the forum, you know how to find a simple and remarkably good scheme.
The brain of this converter is the TL494NC microcircuit, which creates pulses of a given frequency. The frequency is set by elements R1 and C8. Further, these pulses are spent on transistors VT1, VT2, which are the ceramic switches of the output transistors. Once open, the output transistors create a high-frequency alternating current at the primary winding. The transformer moves the voltage up to the specified 60V, then the string is rectified by one bridge. Chokes and capacitors smooth out pulsation and high-frequency induction. The winding transformer is on a ferrite ring glued to two rings with dimensions of 45*28*8 brand HM2000. All edges of the ring are rounded with a file, then the trans is wrapped with gantry electrical tape.
The primary winding is wound with 10 cores with a diameter of 0.8 mm and 2*5 turns. The turns are distributed evenly around the ring. On the tops the mustaches lived to curl up. After the first winding, I replace the insulating ball. The secondary winding is wound with 3 cores of the same type and contains 2*19 turns.
The radiator for the output transistors is a duralumin plate, 3-4 mm wide, about 10 cm long and about 3 cm high.
To power up the filter block, you need a bipolar power supply of +-15V. It is implemented with the help of an additional voltage stabilizer, collected on transistors VT8, VT9 and crank 7815, 7915. Transistors and cranks also carry small aluminum plates-radiators. For the life of the block of zakhistu, a withdrawal from the positive shoulder of the life support has been added. The voltage drop is realized by the double resistor R17.
The switch is turned on as well as the booster behind the additional REM terminal, supplying +12V to it via the magnetoly, the lock, or, for example, the circuit breaker. When the boost is applied, the recovery is even less. The board also has a connector for connecting cooling fans. The size of the hand plate is 140x105mm.
Increased effort
The diagram of the high-acid strength booster is also taken from the site. This little one here is called " ". The circuit is designed for its high-yield sound, greater thickness, remarkable ease of adjustment, and high bass potential.
Correctly collecting pressure is carried out immediately, adjusting until the flow is calm. It is installed with tuning resistor R15. From the beginning, keep the minimal pressure calm and allow the trainer to do 15-20 exercises at medium effort. After short-circuiting the input, turn on the acoustics and set the current level to 50-80 mA. Based on the drop in voltage on resistors R24 - R27, it must lie in the range of 0.22-0.36 V. The voltage in the right and left shoulders may vary slightly. The circuit should use flue capacitors K73-17 or imported analogues, C8, C12, C13, or ceramics. Output and forward transistors should be selected in pairs, preferably from the same batch, and VT1, VT3 and VT2, VT4 should also be selected in pairs. In the photo, resistors R1 and R2 are 0.25 W, later they were replaced with 2 W, if there were enough resistors and 0.5 W. For transistors VT5, VT7, a small aluminum radiator is built. The size of the hand plate is 140x80mm.
Filter block and protection
The fragments of power for the subwoofer need to be seen from the low-frequency low-frequency signal. For which collection is the filter block. You can use a summator that combines a mono stereo signal, a subsonic that adds infra-low frequencies, a low-pass filter that cuts the range up to 300Hz with a slope of 12 dB/oct, an adjustable low-pass filter depending on the frequency. sound in the range of 35-150Hz and phase control, which is the signal for the shortest acoustics improvements
All capacitors in signal lancets are plivkov, cream C3, C4, C6, C8. My type also has a ceramic shunt, C5, C7. If the sensitivity enhancement is not enough, resistors R7, R8, R9, R10 can change the enhancement coefficient. It can be promoted to higher ratings R9, R10 and changes to R7, R8. The diagram is shown below.
The block protects the subwoofer in case of problems with the power supply and protects the speakers from constant voltage. It also reduces pressure when turned on, turning on the pressure a few seconds after turning on the booster. One drawback is that the circuit operates at the same time as life support, which also enhances stress, so when the relay is closed, it does not turn on the power supply, but after a few seconds, during which the capacitors of the life supply unit are discharged.
The control unit and the filter unit are mounted on one second board with dimensions of 185x53mm. The place for the zener diodes VD2, VD3 is not transferred, they are soldered into the place for connecting the power supply to the board, although I think you can do without them, perhaps the relay can be used for a few minutes when it’s switched off.
Housing design and installation
All boards are mounted on a 3mm duralumin plate. The radiator of the output transistors is also screwed to it. Between the radiator and the base, apply a ball of thermal paste, so the plate also plays the role of a radiator. The output transistors are pressed directly against the radiator, between the radiators and transistor housings there is an insulating gasket and a ball of thermal paste.
The beam walls are made from oak planks measuring 230x47x15 mm. On the inside of the planks, at the bottom, there is a chamfer into which the support base is inserted. The planks were given a brown color and sealed with varnish. The front and rear walls are also made of duralumin plates. The front panel contains input and output terminals, sensitivity controls, frequency and phase controls, a power indicator, and a cooler. Another cooler is mounted on the rear panel, and there are also openings for air circulation. The living area is also on the back panel. The front cooler works to blow cold air into the middle of the body, directly onto the radiator. The rear one is for extracting hot air from the body. The chill of spring is setting in, testing has not yet been carried out, but I still don’t turn off the overheating at high pressure. Therefore, when repeating the design, it will be necessary to slightly increase the size of the radiators.
The top cover is made of MDF, which is laminated, its thickness is 3-4mm, black and varnished.
The sound is wonderful, tight, effortless, you can feel the reserve of tightness, the bass is powerful and deep.
Below you can download customized payments from the LAY format
List of radio elements
| Appointment | Type | Denomination | Quantity | Note | Shop | My notebook | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Change the voltage | |||||||
| DA1 | PWM controller | TL494 | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| Linear regulator | LM78L15 | 1 | Before the notepad | ||||
| Linear regulator | LM79L15 | 1 | Before the notepad | ||||
| VT1, VT2 | Bipolar transistor | BC556 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT3-VT6 | MOSFET transistor | IRF3205 | 4 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT7 | Bipolar transistor | BC546 | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT8 | Bipolar transistor | KT815B | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT9 | Bipolar transistor | KT814B | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VD1, VD4-VD7 | Diod | KD213A | 5 | Before the notepad | |||
| VD2, VD3 | Direct diode | 1N4148 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VD8-VD11 | Zener diode | 1N4743A | 4 | At 13 Volt | Before the notepad | ||
| C1, C24-C27 | Capacitor | 1 µF | 5 | Before the notepad | |||
| C2-C5 | 2200uF 25V | 4 | Before the notepad | ||||
| C6 | Capacitor | 0.1 µF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C7, C9, C11 | Electrolytic capacitor | 22 µF | 3 | Before the notepad | |||
| C8 | Capacitor | 1.2 nF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C10 | Capacitor | 10 nF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C12-C15 | Capacitor | 0.68 uF | 4 | Before the notepad | |||
| C16-C23 | Electrolytic capacitor | 1000uF 63V | 8 | Before the notepad | |||
| R1 | Resistor | 15 com | 1 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R2, R9-R12 | Resistor | 10 ohm | 5 | 0.25 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R3, R14 | Resistor | 10 com | 2 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R4 | Resistor | 47 com | 1 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R5, R6 | Resistor | 20 ohm | 2 | 0.25 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R7, R8 | Resistor | 1 room | 2 | 0.25 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R13 | Resistor | 56 Ohm | 1 | 2 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R15, R16 | Resistor | 3 room | 2 | 0.25 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R17 | Resistor | 1 room | 1 | 2 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| FU1 | Zabozhnik | 40A | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| L1 | Throttle | 1 | Ferrite 8mm, wire 2mm, 10 turns | Before the notepad | |||
| L2, L3 | Throttle | 2 | Ferrite 8mm, wire 1.4-2mm, 5-6 turns | Before the notepad | |||
| T1 | 1 | statue | Before the notepad | ||||
| Increased effort | |||||||
| VT1, VT2 | Bipolar transistor | 2N5551 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT3, VT4 | Bipolar transistor | 2N5401 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT5 | Bipolar transistor | 2SB649 | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT6, VT7 | Bipolar transistor | 2SD669 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT8 | Bipolar transistor | 2SC3182 | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT9 | Bipolar transistor | 2SA1265 | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT10, VT11 | Bipolar transistor | 2SC5200 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VT12, VT13 | Bipolar transistor | 2SA1943 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| VD1, VD2 | Zener diode | 1N4744A | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C1, C2 | Electrolytic capacitor | 100 µF | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C3-C5, C11, C14, C19, C20 | Capacitor | 0.47 uF | 7 | Before the notepad | |||
| C6, C7 | Electrolytic capacitor | 47uF 16V | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C8 | Capacitor | 240 pF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C9, C10 | Electrolytic capacitor | 220uF 16V | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C12, C13 | Capacitor | 100 pF | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C15 | Capacitor | 24 pF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C16 | Capacitor | 1 µF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| C17, C18 | Electrolytic capacitor | 1000uF 63V | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C21 | Capacitor | 0.1 µF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| R1, R2 | Resistor | 4.7 com | 2 | 1 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R3, R4 | Resistor | 6.8 com | 2 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R5, R10-R13 | Resistor | 100 Ohm | 5 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R6 | Resistor | 47 com | 1 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R7-R9 | Resistor | 1 room | 3 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R14 | Resistor | 4.7 com | 1 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R15 | Adapter resistor | 4.7 com | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| R16, R17 | Resistor | 47 Ohm | 2 | 0.5 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R18 | Resistor | 180 Ohm | 1 | 1 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R19 | Resistor | 15 com | 1 | 0.125 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R20-R23 | Resistor | 2.2 Ohm | 4 | 1 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R24-R27 | Resistor | 0.22 Ohm | 4 | 5 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| R28 | Resistor | 4.7 Ohm | 1 | 2 Watt | Before the notepad | ||
| Filter block | |||||||
| OP1, OP2 | Operating specialist | TL074 | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C1, C2 | Capacitor | 3.3 µF | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C3-C6 | Capacitor | 100 pF | 4 | Before the notepad | |||
| C7-C9, C12, C14, C17 | Capacitor | 0.1 µF | 6 | Before the notepad | |||
| C10, C11 | Capacitor | 0.22 µF | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C13, C16 | Capacitor | 68 nF | 2 | Before the notepad | |||
| C15 | Capacitor | 50 nF | 1 | Before the notepad | |||
| R1, R2, R5, R6 | Resistor | 2.2 com | 4 | ||||
It all started because I had long wanted to pick up an inexpensive, yet powerful sound enhancer. Not in the simplest way 1555
, which play no better than for the original mini-columns, but would like for hundreds of dollars. Well, the axis and reach are sweeping. Having chosen the power supply for the microcircuit TDA7294. It can easily handle 100 W or more. Having bought a microcircuit for just $1.5, and everything else from Radyansky TV, you know practically everything there.
Microcircuit connection diagram
The advantage of this booster is that it avoids the need for re-verification and re-verification of thousands of radio amators, so that all people can easily pick up this circuit - there are a lot of serious mistakes here. All details can be found at home (except for the microcircuits themselves).
Power transformer TS-160 It is permissible to take it from the same TV, having removed it from the first one, and wound the second one by winding 172 turns of a dart with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Low-power transformers are not suitable here (they even require 200 watts just for sound). The minimum voltage of the transformer is over 100 watts, since the microcircuit operates at a reduced voltage. Apparently, the life of microcircuits 7294
bipolar. The voltage was + 55 volts. Strum 2-3 Amps. I’ll honestly say that I’ve come to my senses without freezing, but rather forgetting. Guess what, if everything was soldered. Conducting life must be done with vigor. With high thickness, thin particles heat up and stick one by one, which results in a short freeze.
This place was taken from an imported TV, but at the time of the sound, the TV was playing loudly. All other details are from Radyansky TB.
Another benefit is the cooler, since the radiator is not that great. I scraped the diagram onto cardboard. Textolite never knew. Many radio amators have such luxuries as textolite, vitriol, and a laser printer - not available. This list also includes: (Then you can earn whatever you want to earn, you can get by with little.
The parts are connected with copper wires. The LEDs and other indicators did not turn on, because seriousness and efficiency are important to us first. The speaker is currently 20-30 W, 8 Ohm. I haven’t bought a 100 cotton head yet.
Photo of the finished booster. So, neatness doesn’t come at a cost. But by the way, everything turned out very well - there are no ordinary sensitive tricks. The input signal is supplied from the telephone. The booster started up from the very first time it was turned on and it really bothered me! Z uv. best.boy99
Discuss the article “Strengthened strength for cobs”
Standard car audio systems are a real headache for those who make loud noises. Having already learned about possible ways to upgrade it, today I will focus my report on one of the elements - automobile powertrains. Their specificity sometimes varies greatly among those at home.
Why not waste the regular support?
I guess it would be wrong to skip this meal. Reasons to change the standard booster.
First of all, the tension is visible. Whose appearance needs it not at all for thickness, but, strictly speaking, not only for it. In standard systems, simple boosters and speakers with reduced impedance are often used. Since we have decided to install a new system, it is not a fact that the new speakers will sound good from a regular booster. They may, for example, have higher impedance, lower sensitivity, and from them we reject God knows what with great confidence. The blame goes to the acoustics, which were initially positioned by the distributors for upgrading the “staff”, but we had already attempted more serious upgrades, and this option was later cancelled.
It is important to install standard audio systems not by the car dealers themselves, but by third-party companies for the car dealers' consent. But not everyone puts their nameplate on the front panel In other words, systems are being fragmented to achieve harsh benefits both in price and constructively. To be clear, it is acceptable that Honda's audio components will damage Pioneer and Alpine - but this could damage the reputation of these brands.
Thirdly, equipment. The regular insurance premium for one single version of the system means zero to ten thousand additional adjustments. Why do we just need to turn on the high-pass filter on the front and main channels? Why is it necessary to adjust the low-pass filter on the subwoofer channels in order to connect it with the speaker systems? What are our serious lives?
Therefore, it follows that when upgrading the system, simply replacing the acoustics will not work forever, and the new booster becomes a must-have.
Why publish the correct pіdsiluvach’s search?
As always, choose a track to work according to your needs. In other words, from the beginning we are designing the warehouse of the system, and from now on it is already clear what kind of supporter it is. The simplest thing is to take a paper and draw on what kind of speakers you will have installed.
Select the type of acoustics connection through passive crossovers or channel-by-channel with an active distribution. Both options suffer their advantages and shortcomings, but that is the topic of a serious discussion. For now, I’ll point out that the first option is the simplest, and the other may be more feasible from the adjustment and “view” of the problems. Depending on the selected option, you must select the required number of channels and functionality.
The audio system can be folded. Channel-by-channel enhancement with an active subdivision and processors are primarily on the right for high-end automotive systems Already at this stage it is necessary to evaluate what will be the system’s main goal. If the main device has major line outputs, then there are problems here. If you move your regular “head” to the right, then you may soon have to make tricky roundabout maneuvers. Having already looked at this topic in the report from the article, I will immediately highlight those who are worried about the connection of supporters.
Well, there are only so many options. The simplest one is connection before the output of the regular supporter. For which the new support is due to the mother, besides the primary inputs, which are also high. Since there are none, one can vikorist the so-called “transforming a high level into a linear one.”
High-quality inputs are included to equip most models of automobile boosters This option is simple, but it will not be stagnant for a long time. Most often, the full-time supporter sees a signal at the time of correction, and the worst one is to be brought to the right by the mother with rich strength. And here the output signal can be “selected” by a specialized processor, and then connected to a new booster. Here we also include options for standard systems with a MOST bus, with which a special adapter can be used to “pull in” an SPDIF or an analog signal.
There are more and more fragments of such folding systems, so it’s not at all surprising that those powered by a new processor have begun to appear on the market. Just a little about the equipment.
What are the differences between automobiles and domestic ones?
In fact, the most powerful part is nothing special. It seems that the living unit here operates not from the everyday 220 Volts, but from the on-board 12-Volt circuit. In my opinion, there are two main principles.
The impulse life block occupies a small part of the internal space of the power supply First of all, most car power supplies have universal connection options: they transmit as a primary connection, and bridge up to a couple of channels. This ability allows you to use primary power supplies not only for connecting acoustics, but also for connecting subwoofers. The rest are still “unpretentious” in terms of exertion. The simplest option, which can rightfully be called classic, is a 4-channel booster, two channels of which go to the front speakers, and the two that are missing are connected by a bridge to the subwoofer.
A circuit with a 4-channel booster, which powers the front speakers and subwoofer, is rightfully respected by the classics of car audio systems Another important thing is the functionality of automobile power boosters compared to home ones - not the equipment. Homemade animals are pure “ends”. In a car, at a minimum, you have to change the filters.
For example, it’s still the same simplest scheme with the same channel as the front speakers and the subwoofer. The most common acoustic design for the front low-frequency/mid-range speakers is implemented at the doors. Let's face it, it's not the best, but the lower bass needs to be weakened, and in these channels a high-pass filter is required. The subwoofer, however, is not responsible for singing with the voice, and therefore, these channels require a low-pass filter. The optimal frequency of speakers and subwoofers should be between 50 Hz and 100 Hz, slightly lower than what is commonly used in home systems. The passive floor here cannot be pierced, rollers the size of a spare wheel can be rolled around - no, let go. And the axis of the active floor is the same. Therefore, historically it has been the case that the minimum equipment of the booster is active low-pass and high-pass filters. Basically regulated, but sharpened and with a fixed adjustment frequency.
Adjustment of the low-pass and high-pass filters is essential for most automotive boosters Well, then – more. For example, if the switching on of acoustics with an active splitter is transmitted through the channel, the boost is due to the filters with wider regulation intervals. Some old-school models can change the coolness through the filters. Let's say, JL Audio did something similar at the right time. And so on incrementally, right up to equipping the booster with the new processor and transforming it into a real “sound combiner”.
A song about combine operators, or Pidsiluvach plus a processor
Infection of this class of powered processors with manufactured processors (or processors with driven powered ones, whichever is closer) can be affected by the most promising ones for the lowest reasons.
First of all, just as in a home system you can quietly listen in the shortest listening time, in a car you are always dealing with the same acoustic systems in the cabin and God knows how the speakers are scattered throughout. “Zibrati” sounding in this mess is oh so difficult. And if audiophile snobs and pure passive prices were not disrespectful, you can only work with the help of an additional sound processor. If you go about it wisely, then the result may be similar to those who are interested in “home sound” audiophiles. It has been verified more than once.
Automotive digital processors are usually controlled from a computer or laptop that is connected. The program comes with an initial interface that allows you to quickly customize the required configuration Alternatively, in most cases, only those with a processor can use a system based on a standard head unit. There are many cars in which it is always impossible to extract the output signal from the standard “head” - due to either scorching or burning cuts at the dark frequency.
As a starting point, there is the Italian concern Elettromedia, which has been successfully developing the topic of introducing new systems from standard head units for a long time. The essence of the processors produced under the Audison brand is this. You turn on the standard speakers and feed the signal from the standard amplifier to the inputs of the processor. Adjustment is done this way. Turn on the disk from the kit and start the setup mode in the processor. The processor “listens” to the inputs, automatically “adds” signals that are cut in frequency (including the correction of phase disturbances), carries out de-equalization, and removes updates, such as tomato juice from the mouth, a sound signal. The algorithm for such an addition is a source of pride for the developers.
Audison prima is one of the representatives of the family of automotive processors with an integrated powertrain. Or, as always, boosted by the new processors Snobby, melodiously, making faces, muttering, what kind of audiophilia is there, since we can’t rightly deal with the output signal, but pick up, vibachte, “from the g... і finger”? Okay, no one talks about the High End here. Well, first of all, the system as a result still plays two heads better, less than a standard balalaika. And in another way, and most importantly, the processor in this case is required in order to correctly integrate the additional high-quality engine into the system, while still preserving the functionality of the standard head unit.
However, there are still not a lot of serious devices, including those used for automobile storage. At least the Sony GS-9, which reads everything, right up to the DSD format, and the Audison bit Play, which the Italians can get to the point. Smart people, however, are still eager to use home players in cars (including yours), otherwise you can avoid taking them out of storage. Prote, as the character said in an old joke, “the trend, however,” is that the course towards Hi Res in cars has already been taken. І processors (zocrema and with added boosters) are the key link here.
The size varies: the D-class varies
Once we’ve left, let’s turn back again to the support. If there are five reasons why the AV-class has an undeniable authority, then today’s cars that support the D-class in many cases already look more beautiful.
First of all, compactness. At home, it is the same size as a nightstand and looks bulky, but still does not cause such serious problems. In the machine, the difference in the body of only 5 cm may appear extreme. These days, people don’t want to put audio system components on display and spend a lot of money on installation. And the compact D-class allows for complete installation. The ability to accommodate power, say, under the seats, or the panel seems even more attractive.
For all their compactness, the automotive power boosters on the current D-class chips show very high levels of output strength and a decent sound In other words, energy efficiency. Again, with modern appliances, food in a car is especially expensive. Especially with the increasing number of electric vehicles and hybrids. Letting more than half of the harvested energy go into heat, wait, is not the most rational way to waste it. However, even with the upholstery, such boosters are still not good, thermal imaging is not the same as in the AV class, but not zero. I want to ensure that any wind exchange is to blame.
A new generation of power boosters uses D-class vicor chips with an efficiency higher than 95% Well, the third argument for the D-class is, as it is not surprising to be rich, the vigor of sound. I don’t immediately take into account the dear friends of the high class, there’s a different situation there. But in the lower price category at equal prices, the AV-class most often rightly loses to the current D-class. Five years ago, this would be due to the emergence of new chips, which operate at non-current frequencies under sub-megahertz, which is already a fact.
Features of connecting a car booster
There is a well-known phrase about those who say that “the boosters really don’t boost anything, they just modulate the food.” One of the most important functions of a car booster at home, which you can quickly guess at the very beginning, is the work of the on-board side of the car. The nominal voltage is set to 12 Volts (really a little more, but it doesn’t matter at all). This means that in order to remove sufficient pressure at the output, the pressure flow can be quite serious - tens, and at the peak of the signal, hundreds of Amperes. Stars and individuals benefit from life. At first glance, it all looks a little flimsy, but in reality, if you follow a few simple rules, you won’t have any problems.
First of all, the booster cannot be connected to standard wiring every time. Vaughn is not insured for such expenses. Take the cables side by side and lay them from the power supply directly to the battery. You can have a plus or a minus, or you can only have a plus (a minus in any case). There is no clear answer, which option is more beautiful, perhaps, but I especially give preference to the first method. I wish that today's cars have a lot of electronics, which are also connected to the body.
Accurate wiring - ensuring reliability and safety Don’t skimp, use special car cables to connect - they have soft insulation that is resistant to temperature changes. Fans of vikorism of various kinds KG-25 and other similar industrial cables will already be pumped through the river in the engine compartment with humic insulation, which disintegrates. Having posted this more than once, fortunately, I was out of my mind.
Before speaking, be aware that cheap cables may not be copper, but so-called CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum), “exchanged” with aluminum. The stench is less durable, more corrosive and weaker at the points of contact. Pure copper in this plan is still beautiful, albeit more expensive. And even better – tinned copper.
Otherwise, select a sufficient cross-section of the life cables coming out of their life and power supply. Ten parts of an ohm in the life line can cause a voltage drop in the peak signal of a few volts. And this not only contributes to the sound, but can lead to the exit of the life support block. For this reason, be sure to immediately rip through the necessary cable to remove any stuck sticks.
When choosing a cable cut, you can refer to the tables, which are the same as the rules for any auto-sound recording Thirdly, be sure to place a life-defender in the gap between the cable and the cable. It is your fault that the battery is located closer to the battery. By taking over from the supporter himself, you are not protecting the equipment, but the cable itself. Select the denomination that comes out of the cut. For example, for a cable with a span of 4 Ga (21 sq.mm) you can supply a power supply of no more than 100 A, and for a cable with a span of 2 Ga (33 sq.mm) - no more than 150A.
Five tips about automobile powertrains
Well, I'll guess. If you seriously wanted to upgrade your standard audio system, you need a new one. It's here.
Get in touch with Dzherel. If you are a regular GU from which it is impossible to output a linear signal or a “digit”, then you will need to convert the high-level signal to a linear signal connected to the device, or select a booster with high-level inputs. Or, since the system is designed to enhance and correct the signal, it will be necessary to “renew” the output signal by the processor. That's two.
Any car booster can be equipped with additional equipment - from simple low-pass and high-pass filters that allow you to separate speaker systems and subwoofers, to the most advanced processors produced by the booster itself. Choose to work diligently in accordance with the assigned tasks. That's three.
Select the type of installation. If it’s not “for show”, then it’s not something else. If installation is required, then it will give priority to the compact powertrains of the D-class. Tse chotiri.
And decide, give proper respect to the food. Evidently, food is a barrier to the normal work of the assistant. That's five.
To go by the way, and now, in order to pick up some simple help, you no longer need to suffer with the problems and riveting of a hand-made payment of great dimensions.
Nina may have all the cheap and powerful technology to work on microcircuits. The greatest expansion was achieved with TDA microcircuits to enhance the audio signal. At this time, stench is detected in car radios, in active subwoofers, in home speakers and in many other audio devices and looks approximately like this:
Advantages of TDA microcircuits
- In order to get power on them, it is enough to supply life, connect the speakers and a number of radio elements.
- The dimensions of these microcircuits are quite small, but unless they are placed on a radiator, otherwise they will get very hot.
- The stinks are sold at any radio store. On Ali there are roads that are so dense.
- Various protections and other options are available, such as turning off sound, etc. But for my precautions, it is not good to ask for help, because microcircuits often die either due to overheating or failure. Also, it is important not to shorten the circuits of the microcircuits with each other and not to overheat the microcircuit, which contains all the juices.
- Price. Without telling you, the stench is even worse than the roads. For the price and functions that come together, they have no equal.
Single-channel booster on TDA7396
Let's take a simple single-channel booster on the TDA7396 microcircuit. At the time of writing this article, I took it at a price of 240 rubles. The datasheet for the microcircuit said that this microcircuit can output up to 45 watts into 2 ohms. If you keep the dynamics of the speaker coil at around 2 ohms, then you can completely reduce the peak power of 45 watts on the dynamics.These pressures should be completely removed in order to control the disco in the room not only for yourself, but also for your neighbors, and in this case, remove the middle sound, which, of course, does not compare with hi-fi boosters.
Microcircuit pinout axis:
We will take our help from the standard diagram, which was provided in the data site itself:
Leg 8 is supplied with + Vs, and leg 4 is supplied with nothing. Well, the diagram looks like this:
Vs – this is the life force. It can be from 8 to 18 Volts. “IN+” and “IN-” – a weak sound signal is sent here. Up to 5 and 7 noses are cooled by the speaker. Most of the legs are set to minus.
My axle is assembled by hanging mounting
The capacitors at the input of the life supply are 100 nF and 1000 μF, I didn’t test them, since I have a clean voltage in the life block.
Disable the speaker with the following parameters:
As you know, the coil is based on 4 ohms. The range of frequencies indicates that it is a subwoofer type.
And this is what the axle looks like in a self-made body:
I tried to record a video, but the sound was really bad. But I can still say that with the phone at medium pressure it was already so powerful that the ears caught fire, although the combination of all the circuits in the working view became almost 10 watts (multiplied by 14.3 by 0.73). For this application, I took the voltage, like a car, to 14.4 Volts, which is entirely within our operating range of 8 to 18 Volts.
If you don’t have a strong life force, you can take the axis for this scheme.
Don’t get hung up on this microcircuit yourself. There are many types of these TDA microcircuits, as I have already said. They produce a stereo signal and can output sound to 4 speakers, as is the case in car radios. So don’t hesitate to scour the Internet and find the TDA you need. After the folding is completed, let the pressure be adjusted by turning the volume knob all the way to the balalaika and pressing the loudspeaker down to the wall).
And I selected the axis of the stat on the TDA2030A microcircuit
It turned out really bad, the TDA2030A fragments have better characteristics than the TDA7396
Also, for the sake of diversity, here is a diagram of the pre-payer, which supports the TDA 1557Q and works well for over 10 years after:
Subscribers on Aliexpress
On Ali, I also found kits on TDA. For example, the axis of this stereo power supply is 15 watts per channel for the price of $1. All these pressures need to be removed in order to hang out and listen to your favorite tracks in the room.
You can buy it.
And from vin is already ready
And yes, there are a lot of modules of support for Aliekpres. Press on it's hard to do And choose whatever support you deserve.