Technology for the production of aircraft models from various materials and instructions for their processing.

All good assembled models of aircraft, the axles are still far from being available at a price. I can cover the furnishings here, but at first glance. You can work with the original table top model of the flyer from a paper, and if you use wood or plastic, you can learn how to work with a model no worse than the “branded” ones, and even among them, nothing matters, they flew about the stench.

A similar approach is significantly easier on the right for those who wish to dedicate their efforts to the design and production of desktop replica models. Golovnya - to ensure that the model looks reliable, and why it is split in the middle does not matter. Therefore, in the work above the table-top “air show” you will find your frozen materials: cardboard and paper, wood, plywood and polystyrene products, various polystyrene packaging for grub products.

First, try to make a bench model of the famous Radyansky diving bomber Pe-2 from the Great White War on a scale of 1:72. The main projections, templates for preparing the body and wing are shown on baby 6, and the manufacturing technology is shown on baby 7. In order to create a model, it is better to select wood from soft species: aspen, linden, poplar or yalinka.

The fuselage is made from a solid wooden block, if you want to prepare it empty, then make the workpiece from two blocks, which are glued with a thick paper (Fig. 7, a). This is necessary so that the finished fuselage can be separated and separated from the middle.

The work begins by transferring the projection of the model fuselage onto tracing paper. Then glue the tracing paper onto the workpiece and cut around the outline. So I’ll prepare to transfer the appearance of the animal (Fig. 7, b). During the residual sample, check the correctness of the fuselage cuts A-A, B-B, B-C (div. Fig. 6) with templates (Fig. 7, c).

Krilo - from a whole board. If there are no boards of the same size, glue a bunch of bars together. Once you have finished, trim the blank just like a fuselage. When profiling the fender, use cut patterns G - G and D - D. To create a transverse V stick of the center section and consoles, cut the wings and then glue them under the required cut. Prepare the engine nacelles and tails in a similar manner. The pilot cabin light can also be made from wood. In this case, coat all covered surfaces with black tarpaulin.

In the report we will analyze the preparation of a clear-sighted leader from the orgskla. He is insightful and may even change colors under the influx of sleepy changes. At elevated temperatures, plexiglass becomes plastic, which allows you to knit parts of different shapes. The most favorable sampling temperature is 110-135°C. At a higher temperature, fumes appear on the surface of the plexiglass, which causes the robot to melt.

The method of drawing (Fig. 7, d) is based on the fact that you can easily stretch a wooden mold, which consists of a blank-punch 1 and a pass-through window-matrix 2. The punch is drawn from a blank of solid wood (used ka) on the chair . Then it is coated with casein glue, dried and thoroughly cleaned with fine sandpaper, so that the wood is not exposed. Casein glue can be replaced with epoxy resin or enamel, in which case the glue is removed only in microcracks, and the punch itself is thoroughly cleaned to a shine.

Matrix 2 is cut out of 3...4 mm plywood so that the opening is 1.5 mm larger than the dimensions of the punch. The edges of the tar matrix are carefully rounded and covered with abrasive paper. Wooden blocks are nailed down to the matrix.

Orgsklo thickness 1 mm behind the size is approximately 3 times larger for the opening in the matrix. The heat is heated over a closed fire (electric stove) until it softens. Then place the workpiece on the matrix and continuously stitch the punch into the opening of the matrix using a smooth hand. Zusilla was taken away after the org became cold. The finished lekhtar is removed and excess materials are cut off. To ensure that the folds do not form on the lekhtar, it is necessary to press the matrix 5 and, after an hour of stretching, press the workpiece with it to the main matrix. Sometimes the finished lighters are deprived of any irregularities in the punch or wood structure. These imperfections should be sanded with fine sandpaper and then polished.

With a folded model, it is especially important to ensure the symmetry of the parts and their correct orientation. After the model has been assembled, it is necessary to carefully fill all the gaps between the parts. It is faster to use epoxy putty or nitrogen putty

ASh-22 or ASh-30 or oil putty PF002. You can also prepare the putty yourself. For this product, you need to rub it on a sieve and dilute it on enamel until the required thickness is removed. For soft putty, you can add nitrofarb. Before filling, the entire model is covered with a ball of primer, then puttyed again and carefully covered with sanding paper.

This model is also made from polystyrene. The required parts, let’s say, can be cut from 2...3 mm thick polystyrene sheets, and then “finished” with needle files and sanding cloth. The fuselage is glued together from a package of polystyrene plates. To cover the surface of the model, it is best to use thin sheets of polystyrene from grub packaging or glossy branding papiers. Coating with polystyrene allows you to display various details on the surface of the model, including rivets. The stinks are well “minted” (pricked with a blunt tip) on the blanks in the middle. You can make stitches and seams of the trim, glue hatches and fillers on them, work on blinds and radiator guards, and wicker pilots. The low density of polystyrene makes it possible to effectively formulate it for the feathering of bombs and missiles.

The cutting of the sheathing sheets can be carried out directly on the finished material, especially if you prepare cutters for polystyrene, shown on small 8. Most of them can easily cross-cut on the surface of the polystyrene using a metal line straight lines, some of which easily break into pieces.

A handful of such cutters, cut from the intricacies of a metal hacksaw, should be completely cut (b, c, d) for the skin type. For example, to produce a thin, shallow cut, the cutter needs to be sharpened at 30°, and for deeper and wider cuts, at 55° and 80°. I would especially like to make sure that the trace is made exactly as the line was moved by the oval, as on the chair. Round stitching elements (for example, hatches) are easy to create using tubes of different diameters sharpened at the edges. When you lightly press the tube onto the polystyrene, the weak mark is lost; to remove the necessary depth, you need to turn the tube 2-3 turns.

After all the cutting has been finished, the surface of the model is covered with fine-grained sandpaper, and the defects are sealed with putty. Having completed all these steps, you can proceed to the preparation of the model, once again carefully familiarizing yourself with our recommendations for completing this particular operation.

One or two models produced using this technology (chairs for this robot regularly publish such magazines as “Kryla Batkivschyny”, “Modelist-Constructor” and “Yuniy Tekhnik” together with an additional supplement) - and you will become a reference model stoma-copystom, and Your “air show on the table” is about to be quickly updated with new models of aircraft, chosen inclusively for your needs.
In this case, reviewing various sources, encyclopedias and special magazines will turn you into a specialist in aviation law.

And a few words about organizing your work. In our opinion, it is rational, for example, to work simultaneously on a number of similar workpieces, if this operation itself, which is called, is full of improvements and preparations of a similar tool. In this manner it is very easy to turn wheels, to shovel wind-driven screws, and to stamp cabs. As for the sprout models, it is easier to prepare them: the work will be forgotten, the terms of residual fermentation will be shortened, and the food will be saved.

About Yolops, Matrices and Likhtars
or the Street of Gipsovikh Likhtariv

This article is primarily dedicated to my most successful project - Kamikace Compact. Vishtarovnia Lihtar I, up to the same time for masturbation (for project Phoenix Bird), Ale Vidobrazi in photographers for a pity the process is not a snake (all spontaneously, the test of samples), the same with the Vidori Bovdur Viddov is process in detail Vidobraziv in detail.

I drink lekhtari including from PET dances. There are pubs or places where you can sell kvass. At least 2-3 liters of brown colored fruit. In extreme cases, you can see the light, but then you end up with a car wash in the middle of the balloon (a little for fogging the light) because the light on the flight is completely clear - this is pornography and you can’t see it in the sky.

Polyfoam fool

Likhtar, using the technology of gypsum beads, begins with polystyrene foam.

It is not culver or any granulation that is produced, but Pinoplex or black polystyrene foam, which is used in electric vehicles. Pinoplex is the most powerful, which is... We use 30mm plates to create a prototype of a fool. The height is 70mm across the chairs, so we glue the bag together for 2 strips at a time. Glues can be used with thick Henkel PVA or Titanium. On Titan the bag dries in about three minutes, on PVA it takes no time.

Raju cut off the cutting string for polystyrene foam - it’s really loud! However, you can use a knife to cut a 10mm plate (shorter from stock).

The tools that are used for the preparation of virgin yol are steel cutter, coarse sandpaper, thin sandpaper, and even brown sand - two types of skins are glued to both sides of the plywood. A very strong file comes out. Vіn me mainly and vikoristovat in sanding bovdur.

I’ll prepare the yolop for the raja raja to work longer, lower the plateau of the cabin. Dovzhina by 10-20 mm. This is necessary in order to then properly trim the edges of the patch and cut out possible folds (I will say more about this below).

The stump is cut from the raw material, bringing its future appearance to the required shape. I’ll tell you straight away that I don’t give a damn about the liekhtars. I’m not looking for anything just behind the side profile. Most beautifully, there is an armchair in front of the eyes and roughly creates its shape. This way it will be simpler and there will be fewer compromises and blunders.

We bluntly cut the stump layers and remove the following workpiece:

The main part of the work is polished with plywood “file” and rough sandpaper. Rukhs are all around and the lieutenant is dying. Be careful not to tear up the polystyrene foam. Once the larger shape has been established, the other side is finished with a “file” with fine sandpaper.

If you can’t get too close with a “file,” then we take a piece of skin in our hands (“with a bun”) and, pressing it with our finger, carefully scrape the desired area. I used this at the transition of the pilot’s forehead into the edging, which repeats the shape of the cabin cover.

Gradually try on the top to the fuse in order to achieve the closest possible shape to the front part and especially to the gargrot.

As a final rule for all sandpaper jobs, we pass a “fine grain” sandpaper over the entire surface to smooth the surface as much as possible. The result looks something like this:

I always pay for scraps like this:

Nadbudov glue on the speckles of polyethylene tsiacrine with an activator.

Preparation before casting

Well, the most difficult part of the operation of preparing the ligand and, at the same time, the most difficult part begins.

I bought a painter’s bucket with a handle and a basin for something so special from the state pharmacy.

A container of 6 or 8 liters (I don’t remember yet) serves as a container for the matrix. The window is straight with a slight sound. There’s a bathhouse in the distance for 95 rubles!

This is what the distillery shop looks like when it is 100% ready.

The block is glued with Titan glue to the cardboard, which in size corresponds to the flat part of the bottom of the brain. Place a 50 liter liter smitten bag on the head and lower it with a piece of cardboard (you can see it in the photo). The cardboard straightens the surrounding bottom space around the edge and prevents it from getting damaged (this happened).

Grown in an alabaster basin. Be respectful! It is necessary to understand that you do not fill the matrix at once, as a rule, you will not break it down and it will come out thick. Therefore, as a rule, I fill it at 2-3 times.

The supply we need is rare. The consistency is approximately similar to rare sour cream or yogurt:

Lit technology

First pour water into a basin and hang alabaster there (I made a bark flask made from a bowl) with a steady, respectful grip, and the cooks can roughly imagine the process. Once you have the required consistency (not water or thickness, but a little sour cream), without worrying about anything, you start pouring it into the cebro. We pour the fool itself on the cob, and then we form the walls of the matrix. This is very important. The first step is to remove the shell around the bowl, and the other step is to finish the walls until it is thick (which is determined by the size of the bucket and the bowl itself). As a rule, within an hour of departure the other approach is overtaken by the first. Remember - alabaster is even stronger!

The height of the fill cap above the bovdur is not less than 2 cm. This will be the thickness of the bottom of the matrix.

The axis looks like this after another run:

Let it dry for about a year, pull the matrix from the center of the bag and remove the bag and cardboard. Our fool is going wild:

Much later, an idea appeared - when the matrix is ​​flooded, place some elements - voltage concentrators - in the space between the core and the walls of the core. Squeeze the cardboard vertically, placing it flat diagonally to the center. It will be easier to break them later, since the stench will destroy the integrity of the matrix mass.

As a rule, it is not possible to remove a bug from its entirety; therefore, it must be eradicated. There is no need to stain the surface of the polystyrene foam - you just need to help him get out on his own. Take acetone and pour it from both sides of the bowl to sanitize its surface. With a twist, or so it is, we can force ourselves to twist and pull the yolop. Wine, as a rule, rests there, so we add acetone around the edges and seal the necessary areas. When it’s done, it sounds like a smack, adding to the meltiness. This is carefully twisted, as it is lost on the walls of the matrix, and is always unbreakable! Let a little dry out. The acetone evaporates and melts the polystyrene foam harder. Then we carefully remove it from the appearance of the sparkle.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of the filling stage, but I’ll describe it in words. The cutting ball can be used as a different one. For Likhtar Ptah Phoenix, I used the same Smith bag, otherwise there would be inevitable folds. So we mix the porridge with milk and smear the matrix in the middle with a spoon. After drying up, spittle comes out. We put 2 balls of porridge, so that the first plaster is added.

How many times have I visited another segregation center - Oliya. It's also nasty, but it's richer, it's nicer.

The preparation for yol requires a little more work. This is so important! If you re-trim the holes in the basin, then the wickedness will not be at its best and you will need some putty. What power did the man have? :-(

After pouring the crack, we viitrate for three years and then carefully break the matrix. Using a chisel and hammer, we use a chisel and a hammer to chip off the end wall and then very carefully create a shallow groove at the bottom of the matrix (where we have a hole in the bottom). Thus, the matrix is ​​valued along this line of voltage. Then, with gentle blows of a hammer and a chisel on the walls of the matrix, it is possible to split the matrix in two (or rather, sticky scraps from the walls). The result is identifiable:

This bovdur through dissolution (having rubbed out the yol and wine, having already become thick, when poured, it became like potato puree) had to be puttied with very rare alabaster and then actively sanded. Ideally, the result is a perfectly smooth yolk, which then requires minimal sanding.

The wrapping process

I also didn’t know the tightening process (I didn’t have strong hands), so I’ll describe it in words. At the back, the selected dance is cut off at the bottom of the base. The dance is very cylindrical, without any sound in the middle and without any pressure on the little ones. By the way, the dance is as smooth as possible. I know I’ll make a dance with kvass (more of that kind, as there was a lot of it).

We insert the bobdur into the dance in such a manner that the throat of the dance goes to the front end of the bodur and slightly at the bottom (the bob of the dance will be slightly distorted). It is placed in the space between the wall of the dance and the bottom of the side of the trees to speed up the tightening volume (the dance does not tighten endlessly!).

Using a heavy-duty hairdryer, we first “curl” the flap so that it warms the “back” of the design that came out, so that the edges of the flap are wrapped around the back of the skirt (this is to ensure that the flap does not appear from the flap when the main part of the surface is tightened). Moreover, it is recommended to warm the top of the animal's head, and then from below. The folds didn’t disappear at all (mine still came out at the very top).

Then we warm the main part, tightening the entire expanse of the dance on the bowdur. The temperature of the hair dryer is not set to maximum (I have a hair dryer with two temperatures - 300 and 600 ° C), but to medium (I have a heat of 300). The dance may begin to melt if you heat it as much as possible.

Using a tanner, after maximally smoothing the flap on the block, we cut the flap at the ends, cut the turn at the back end and the throat at the front, and also cut the flap from the bottom. Let's take the light from the bodur and the axis to the intermediate result!

Final photos of the result:

Oleksandr Niskorodnov (NailMan)

1 leaf fall 2019 Another 17th virtual bench model competition DiSHow-2019 has started.

Advanced schedule of competition and post-competition publications:
Monday – final work;
Tuesday-Friday – competitive robots;
Saturday-week – free days.

Depending on the number of applications for the competition, the schedule may change. We would like to encourage authors to respectfully follow the publication of their works and check the nomination of their published works. If you have any questions, please contact the administration immediately.

Good luck to everyone!

Two simple ways to prepare palettes on aircraft model aircraft.

Sergiy Mashnov aka Sam Blake

look back at the photo in real time
looking at photos in lightbox mode

One of the types of work when folding aircraft models is the preparation of a fold on the cabin light.

And a bunch of technological techniques for this. Two of them, in my opinion, are the simplest ones, I would like to get to know you.

For the first (1) we need painter's, car or even special modeling tape and even a sharp bottom. For the other (2) - glue BF-2. It is best to buy it in pharmacies and most importantly - to use ethyl alcohol. yogo before stosuvannya on the unnecessary clear-sighted flyer. In no time, the Chinese can refine the mausoleum on Chervonia Square without changing the glue recipe.
The glue itself is fluid, but I will dilute it with even more alcohol for a quick spread.

1. We cut the tape and stick it on the panel as much as possible in such a way that its equal edges are covered with the ligher’s palette. Bazhano is unique and also applies adhesive tape to the ball. Using a toothpick, draw a line across the palette, making sure to adhere as tightly as possible to the tape. Then the worker draws lines along the edges of the palette in order to make it easier to see how to cut through the mask.
2. Using a thin stick (I use a vikorist stick for this piece of hard wood or a piece of needle like a parasol), apply glue evenly to the entire surface of the panel. The procedure is repeated every two years, applying another ball of glue.
Residual drying requires at least three years

1-2. Use a sharp knife to carefully follow the drawn lines, being careful not to seal the openings.

1-2. It is visible that the adhesive tape and glue have been cut, so that the adhesive areas may have been sealed.

- Your guide to the world of large-scale modeling!

To be honest, I’m already eager to pick up the pen again (in a portable sense, of course!), and start publishing new materials for our information and publicity portal about large-scale modeling.

The last few months have passed with great work, developing new promising business opportunities. I also had a chance to travel around towns and villages. However, the final result of my activity is less than positive. Important management decisions have been made to help other areas find new strengths for development.

I also decided to create my own online store for scale modelers. I had plenty of reasons for this. Perhaps, the head of them - tse gliboka dissatisfaction with current market propositions in this sector. And so as not to freak out, not to fall into extreme depression, I implement my own processes through my special portal.

Website design is already in full swing. Purchase domain. It's called scaletao.com. Follow the instructions and you will get a working version of the site. This application is specifically designed for the implementation of architectural elements that are not available for implementation on a local server. About all the details of this work, about the name of the site, its mission, the range of products - I will write a lot of material.

All this did not deprive me of my free time in modeling and writing articles for the site. It's time to stay home. I can now print one of the same models. God willing, I can still earn whatever I want. I think it will be the PAK FA model. There is a simple option. Mayzhe z boxes. Only fabrication and decals.

Well, I’ll start writing materials for the site right away.

Today we will talk about how to close the already formed parts that are located in the middle of the aircraft model.

I understand….

Even the robot’s work on the flight model begins from the opening of the cockpit. Complete bonding, fabrication and gluing of all parts of the cabin storage volumes. A unique capsule is created, which is then carefully glued to the fuselage.

So, the flight deck can be the most important and visual element of the model. It’s often already half an hour when it’s closed. There are expanded options for the folding model due to the fixed aftermarket.

So it would be much easier to spend all this beauty through one hand-made touch with an airbrush or pencil. If you smear the partition of the cabin with farba. Which, after all, does not fit the model.

WHAT ROBITI??

Every skin modeler knows how to work in such situations. Required think about these problems before their guilt . І carry out regular visits in order to prevent such occurrences.

The result of such thoughts is most often stagnation foam rubber. The material, which has beautiful powers, will fill the entire space in which it is found. When doing so, absorb the meaning of the farbi.

You need to take a piece of foam rubber and wrap it tightly in the middle. The main problem with this one is simple. It is necessary to seal the foam rubber 2 times more than the real one. Moreover, it is necessary to do this carefully so as not to damage the other and tensile parts of the cabin.

Be respectful. The edges of such an improvised “plug” are not supposed to climb onto the surface that is being prepared.

This is such a simple, yet very effective method. In this regard, the main thing is to constantly vikorize the materials at hand.

Ale sho sche more important- Required steadily think. It’s much more complex, it looks worse. Ale is critically important in life :)

Robimo prozor sklinya salon

There are a number of ways to imitate a transparent flap for a plastic model of a flyer.

1. The simplest thing is to glue the windows from the set until the two halves of the fuselage are glued together. When preparing the model, in order to keep the windows clear, they must be covered with masks.

The masks are cut from Tamiya tape and a tube of the same diameter as the telescopic antenna of the radio receiver, which is formed into the required oval shape. I first sharpen the edge of the pipe cut, pressed into a drilling tool or electric drill, and then very carefully, step by step, I squeeze the offal from the opposite sides with needle nose pliers (they have sponges without notches), until the required shape is obtained. Then I glue Tamiya stitch and viruba masks onto a piece of hard gum.

You can buy ready-made masks from manufacturers in the aftermarket.

2. If the windows from the kit do not fit well enough to the plastic - it’s better not to paint them, but to open them under the illuminator and fill them with clear epoxy. First, a lining with tape is glued to the fuselage. A little bit of resin may leak under the tape and will need to be sanded off. A good insight is provided by a two-component epoxy warehouse for the production of jewelry.

3. When the mask is removed, the fringe is often lost at the edges. To achieve this uniqueness, you can do without masks: we prepare the fuselage before gluing, glue the window, glue the halves of the fuselage and prepare the seam along the seam, being careful not to allow a convergence. Robiv so on Boeings (767, 787), SSJ-100, Tu-154M Zirki . It’s very labor-intensive, but still effective.

4. But most often I paint like this - I don’t glue the window together, and after the final blowing with varnish I apply a thin layer Microscale Krystal Klear . Using a toothpick, I apply a few slashes around the perimeter of the window, and then make a new slit from one edge to the other. After drying up, a thin line of spitting emerges, which has the appearance of large-scale labor.

With thick fuselage walls, it is necessary to select a thick plastic window area in the middle, so that it is not easily pulled inwards. If the windows are round, you can carefully countersink them with a sharp drill; if they are oval, you can cut them with a milling cutter (drill).

The axis of the photo of the Zirkivsky SSJ-100 with two window options: the very slope (at the top) and the rare slope (at the bottom) - specially for the experiment, two models were selected differently.

Rone slope (at the top) and at least one slope (at the bottom)

Some models simply apply decal to the window opening and fill it with varnish.

The laser decal on the Magic Touch paper has a thick base, and the seam ball of varnish is very thin. Having dried out, it becomes stretched and becomes creaky. Over the course of a year, due to changes in temperature and moisture, the windows may burst. However, it does not turn off when this option is selected, and if the windows begin to burst over time, you do not need to carefully cut through and remove the decal from the window openings and apply them rarely.

I first paint the models with a semi-matte varnish, then in order for the windows to show texture, I cut openings in the decal under the illuminator in the OLFA cutter with a new blade, in two or three slits along the perimeter of the window. If the decal is thin and the windows are small, I simply run it through with a toothpick, and then make a cut on the edge of the window. If the decal is welded, then when cut, nothing will tear.

I fill the windows with a thin layer of glass even after applying the varnish, so the windows appear not only clearly, but also closer. Strength effect is possible Future.

It’s a good idea to use Futura when transferring decals.

The decal of the cabin palette practically does not stick to the “bare” visible plastic. Tablets that, after drying, try to blow the model with varnish - you may simply fly like an autumn leaf. After I had such an incident, I decaled the windshield on clear plastic and glued it onto the Futura. Well, then the beast gets some varnish.