Reworking a table lamp for a light-emitting diode. Changing a lamp into an LED with your own hands. Dzherelo life for a compact lamp

The current small-sized table lamp, as shown in the photograph, with a light shaft installed in it, looking like a fluorescent U-like compact lamp, was processed by a bunch of rocks and saw.

According to the words of the owner of the table lamp, the rest of the time, while the lamp was still working, there was an unpleasant smell from its stand.

Rotating the base of the lamp immediately showed what was wrong. The insulation in one of the windings of the ballast device was burnt. Obviously, due to overheating or poor insulation capacity of the winding coil of the coil, the short circuit between the turns became short, which provoked the heating of the winding to a high temperature and the residual output of the ballast device out of order.

I didn’t want to bother with rewinding the coils, and it was practically impossible to find a ready-made ballast device for replacement, especially since this type is unknown. So, if you decide to rework the table lamp in a casual way, install a replacement LED fluorescent lamp, and replace the ballast device with an electronic driver, especially since everything for such reworking was at hand.

Replacing fluorescent lamps with LEDs

Apparently, a board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp was manufactured long ago.

The driver burned out and, due to heating, melted the housing-tube. The linear lamp did not prolong this repair, but the LEDs were able to handle it. The width of the strip with LEDs fit just right around the table lamp.

The luminescent U-shaped tube in the dispenser was placed behind the frame of the plastic retainer and base. To complete the required life of the LED strip, the lamp with base must be removed. In order to reach the base of the fluorescent lamp, it was necessary to unscrew one self-tapping screw and remove the fixing bar.

The additional fastening of the base is not enough, and for this purpose only two wires were left to be soldered. The wires are large enough to cut, so they will be cut off to supply voltage to the LED.

After fitting and trimming the light strip using a jigsaw, you will need to cut out the necessary parts. The LEDs on the platform are placed diagonally, which I had to saw with a jigsaw.

The cutting line went to the right place, the other paths that connect the LEDs were no longer damaged.

To fasten the light strip, we used the obvious fastening elements for the table lamp switch. The fluorescent lamp was fixed behind a plastic arm screwed with self-tapping screws, and the cap that was fixed was screwed to a plastic stand.

At the platform between the LEDs, a hole with a diameter of 3 mm was drilled for the self-tapping screw and a hole was drilled for fastening to the stand. After checking the opening of the fastening with the opening in the short stand, you can proceed to fixing the strip with LEDs in the dispenser.

Before permanent installation of the strip with LEDs in the selectors, it is necessary to solder the contact pads on it. One of the wires is short, and it was possible to build it up by soldering and put an insulating casing in place of the connection. So, since the darts were of the same color, then after ringing with a multimeter, the positive conductor of the darts was marked on both sides with frosted rings of white cambric.

I'm ready to make a board with LEDs. It doesn’t matter if you earn such a fee with your own hands. In case of daily use of single-wire LEDs, for example LED-SMD5730-1, it is sufficient to unsolder only 3-5 pcs. You can also, as if it were light, instead of around the light-emitting diodes, vikorize a single light-emitting strip glued to the metal compound. Selecting a driver for each skin condition will have to be done individually.

The photo clearly shows how the board is secured with LEDs installed on it near the table lamp. In order to ensure that the bar is removed from the bottom of the beater at the long stand (photo from Evil), the cambric is added to it until the right height of the short stand is the same.

Before attaching the LEDs to the extractor, the connections to the driver were checked. There was also an incredible amount of cohabitation. The photograph shows a lamp with LEDs installed in it. It was impossible to attach the fixing cap, first placing it on the stand that protrudes, a piece of cambric for the whole day. In this way, the tubes squeezed between the two sections will be securely fastened to the left edge of the bar.

Vibration and electrical circuit of the driver

To supply live voltage to the LED, a transformerless driver is used to supply a faulty E27 LED lamp, using a classic electrical circuit.

In the photo you can see the unsoldering of the darts to the driver. Wire a black wire that goes from the LED board, soldered to the positive and negative outputs of the driver. In addition to the blue and yellow wires, a 220 V supply voltage is supplied to the driver.

The electrical principle of the driver circuit is higher. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 0.8 μF surrounds the flow up to 57 mA. R1 and R3 interconnect the flow through the charge of capacitors at the moment the driver is turned on. One place VD1-VD4 rectifies the voltage, and the electrolytic capacitor C2 smoothes out the pulsations so that the LEDs do not glow at the switching frequency. The driver circuit also has an additional element that is responsible for everything, such as the barter, which smooths out the discharge flow and at the same time becomes a companion. If you need to change or increase the flow of life of the LEDs, you must obviously change or increase the capacitance of capacitor C1. You can increase C1 without connecting it to the board by soldering an additional capacitor in parallel to its pin. When connecting capacitors in parallel, the total capacitance is equal to the sum of their capacitances, so the voltage will also increase.

The constant flow, which ensures optimal brightness of the LEDs that are being vicorized, becomes 20 mA. There are three LEDs connected in parallel on the other board. Therefore, the flow required for such a switching circuit must become 60 mA. Apparently, for proper operation of LEDs, it is better so that the flow that flows is a little less than the nominal one. The stream, which provides a driver with a value of 57 mA, is completely satisfied with this.

There were 60 LEDs on the platform. The measured voltage drop on the skin triad of LEDs was 2.48 V. Thus, the voltage generated by the LEDs was 2.48 × 20 pcs. × 0.057 A = 2.8 W, which is equivalent to the intensity of a 25 W light bulb. The brightness of the table lamp is completely sufficient for use as a light, night light, backlit computer keyboard or reading an e-book.

The tension of the driver is insignificant, and therefore I did not fasten it tightly, simply placing a small plastic clamp behind one of the fastening posts of the base halves. Yak vimikac buv zadeyany staff vimikac table lamp. To complete the reworking of the table lamp, it was no longer necessary to fasten the base together with three screws, and you can proceed before carrying out the testing.

Testing of the table lamp showed good results. By simply tilting the stand and turning the tap at two angles, the table lamp allows you to direct the light flow to the desired lighting area.

Reprocessing allowed us to renew the usefulness of the table lamp without waste, but also transformed the obsolete table lamp into a modern lamp with low energy consumption.

Lighting is the most important warehouse interior. Just before the lightening, there is a calm and zeal for the comfort of our lives. The game of light and shadow allows you to play up the winning moments of the interview and bring respect to the recent moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create that atmosphere that we call “home”. Unique lamps and the best way to create a lampshade with your own hands will help you to create your own, special, individual life. Self-contained lampshades and lampshades are the same conic that you will see in your booth from others.

A couple of words about safety

When preparing lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial minds, the minimum distance from the “body” of the lamp to the materials is first carried out. Keep this in mind depending on the strength and thermal vibration of the lamp and the type (flammability) of the material from which the lampshade/shade is made. Household minds hardly want to be fooled by such fools. And in order not to create an unsafe situation, be sure to follow the rules.

And once you have built the lampshade and installed it, for the first few days, pay respect to those whose lampshade is warming up. When heating, it is important to increase the temperature above the midpoint. If the lampshade is perceived as “warm”, change the light bulb to a lesser intensity. Turn it over again. So, don’t let the self-shading lampshade grow.

Where to take the frame

If you want to recycle an old lamp, floor lamp, or sconce whose old lampshade has become useless, you can simply repurpose the base by selecting old material. Before the cob starts working, take a good look at the frame, is it rusty or if the coating is damaged, can you peel it and prepare it again? The water hour and color can be changed. Since there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (from a store or at a flea market) and perform the operations yourself with it. A nasty lampshade can, before speaking, be made from cats for smitty. The stench is of wood and plastic. Head - to know the difference behind the shape and size. Then at the bottom, open the cartridge. Far away - on the right for the color/plating, and here there are a sea of ​​options.

Since this method is not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (or so) or create a frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wood, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially carved elements), plastic flaps.

Yak made a frame for a self-made lampshade with a dart.

The lamp frame requires aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but easy to change. This is not very important if the lampshade is already in use, but this fact requires repair before work: you can seal the form. On the other hand, such plasticity allows you to easily and simply make changes to the shape during the hour. It’s also a bad option. Aluminum wire can be “mined” from electrical cables. Come and remove the dry waste and you can get started.

The steel is stronger than the spring, so it retains its shape better. You can find them at the daily market. It’s easier to work with her. It is important that the hands of a man be strong.

Around the cutting edge, you will need tight pliers and pliers. The frame of the lampshade consists of two rings and stands that connect them. Depending on the size of the ring and the shape of the stands, the shape of a future lampshade should be taken into account. Food can be knocked down due to the number of racks and the ways in which they are secured. The number of stands depends on the size of the ring and how “round” you want the lampshade to be. The more stands, the “smoother” the fabric will lie. So what should you choose, but the optimal distance between the posts along the bottom stake is about 5-6 cm.

Create a frame for the lampshade from the frame

The methods for attaching the stack to the lampshade ring depend on the type of work you are using, as well as the type of tools you have. The simplest one is to make a small hook at the end, then squeeze it tightly. And so that the ring does not slip to the right or left, first sand the fastening with a fine-grain emery paper. This is an option for thick aluminum dart. It is used to grind steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or larger, the shortest method is. Thinner threads can be bent and wrapped around a ring or made into a hook.

When you work the gaffs, wrap the threads, the appearance looks far from being as ideal as that of factory frames. But this imperfection can be hidden behind the lampshade itself. If you like, find a stitch that matches the color (be sure to match the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the frame around it. You will become much more beautiful. The stitch can be coated with PVA glue and wet, tightly, turn by turn, and wrapped around the frame.

With dart mesh

If you can find a fine mesh, you can quickly create the perfect cylindrical lampshade for a floor lamp, table lamp, bedside lamp, lampshade for installing a candle, etc. All you need to do is cut the pieces of mesh to the required length and width, fold them into a ring and secure the strings wrapped around them around the posts.

To ensure that the mesh does not straighten out, cut the stitches, cut so that long ends are removed from both sides. They are used to seal a cylindrical lampshade. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a stitch of the required color.

From a five-liter plastic dance

The unique shape of the lampshade can be made from a large plastic flap. Є dances for 5-6 liters and 10 liters. Their axle can be adjusted. From the container, cut off the top or bottom - depending on what suits you best. The cut part has a working ring for the cartridge. If the upper part is cut, for some cartridges you can cut the neck. For those with a larger diameter, they will have to be cut.

Then we cut the molded plastic, shape the rims and stands of the lampshade. To save yourself the trouble, you can first fill in all the lines with a marker. The answer will be simpler. Everything is elementary. The rest is simply embellished. And so, remove the plastic thoroughly, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to reach.

Robimo lampshades on frame

There are plenty of options for making a lampshade cover:

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The simplest and most effective way to repurpose an old lampshade for a floor lamp or table lamp is to twist stitches. A frame or lampshade near the cylinder is required. We can either be naked or covered in cloth. If you remove the “bare” frame, lightly penetrate through the cracks to create the same light effects, otherwise the lightening will be inhomogeneous. It’s impossible to read in such light – this is an internet solution. If you need more lightening, cover the frame with fabric. It can be the same color as the stitches, a couple of tones darker or lighter, maybe contrasting. Everything should lie down in front of your basket. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade will let through.

We take a stitch 1-2.5 cm wide. We fasten it from the twisted side of the lampshade with additional PVA glue, additionally secured with a pin. If you took a frame without fabric, fasten it to the top or bottom rim (you can sew it by hand, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, top down, spreading out the stitching turns close to each other, but without overlapping.

Having finished the thread, the stitch is turned up to 90°. Secure in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a gun, immediately secured with a pin, pressed with a clothespin). Next, the stitch is passed under the first stitch, knitted, laid on top of the other, then stretched down again, through one stitch knitted up. This is how we gradually create the intertwining, filling the entire lampshade.

As an option, you can skip two vertical stitches. Ale then you need to stitch, so that the leather stepping row collapses into one cross-section. This will result in a different type of weave. This type of lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since the light will shine straight down, and there will be little light through the walls.

In this option, the stitches may be the same, they may be of the same color, of a different texture, they may be different by a couple of tones or be contrasting. The strings can be started along the stake, or you can get up through the hole. If you choose a wide stitch and apply it with an overlap, then you won’t need to do it horizontally. And if you twist the weaves or twist the cord (right-handed in the bottom photo), a completely different-looking lampshade is eliminated. So this technique of lampshade processing gives even a lot of options.

Briefly, the ideas are clear. There are no options for how you can decorate standard frames for lampshades in a non-standard way. The first way is to sound it out: you can knit a cover onto a lampshade on knitting needles or with slack. Several options in the photo.

Not everything will be knitted. It’s easier to work with beads, especially for glue. You can decorate old fabric using wax, sequins, and beads of different shapes and sizes. You can make such a “new-old” lampshade with your own hands in a couple of years. Select the embellishments according to the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, and glue on the embellishments. To complete the look, you can use beads to pick up pendants that are attached to the lower rim, or even a small part of the robot. I want the effect of tsikavy.

You can sew a new lampshade from fabric. It’s not a big deal to bother him with a new copy of the old one. Let your imagination run wild! If a lamp or floor lamp stands in the girls' room, a new cover on the lampshade can be made to suit the bedroom. You choose the style of the backrest yourself. They look great at the fold. With ruffles and without.

You can get an old geographical map from the boy’s room. The stink is on the tenacious paper. Since the paper is not thick enough, you first need to glue the card onto the cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from this blank.

Original lampshades come out if the finished frame is woven with threads or skeins. Motuzki can be natural. This time it smells like gray, brown and beige. You can find thin synthetic colored cords. From them will come out “fun” for the color of the virobi. It’s even simpler on the right with threads for knitting. The smell is subtle, thick, textured, with a color that changes smoothly. Zagalom options masa.

We take the frame and weave it around the song pattern. You can print these racks. Weave the leather stand with a pussy (the amount of thread required is 3 times the height of the stand). Once the work is completed, we begin to weave threads/skeins between the uprights. They will need to be passed through the pussy, so with threads it is easier to work with the help of the head, and the skeins can be inserted like this.

Another option is to weave the entire frame horizontally from the beginning, and then braid the posts. The braid will no longer come out here, you just need to fasten the turns to the stand with the help of stilts and a singing braid. This option is much simpler in Vikonanna, but the “pussies” look more decorative.

Self-contained lampshades without frame

A lot of materials need to be rigid in order to maintain their shape independently and, at the same time, be made plastic so that you can make something out of them. There are plenty of such self-contained lampshades. And practically everything is due to your respect. We’ll show you a part here, the other part will be included in the photo section (div. below).

From knitted mesh of living servets

The servers are knitted together with the rich and lie stinking in the “stashrooms”, so they don’t know how to throw out harm and vikory. It’s a great idea to use them to make a lampshade for a hanging chandelier. Cream of servettes will be needed if a large bag or inflatable ball is used, glue for important trellises (vinyl, seamography, etc.), pencil.

We soak the glue according to the instructions, until it gets rough. Let's hit the ball or take the ball, let's hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out the serverette on a clean surface, coat it with glue, and place it on the die.

You need to put it in such a way that in the center there is no opening for the cartridge. One by one we glue the serverets. They need to be folded so that the edges of the pieces overlap. Once all the servers are laid, coat them with glue again and leave until dry. When the glue is dry, blow the ball or the ball (the ball can be pierced, but that’s not a problem) and remove it through the hole. That's it, the living lampshade is ready.

In some situations, problems arise when a ready-made lampshade is hung on a socket. The problem is simple - take a plastic piece, cut its neck, if necessary, expand the opening to the required dimensions (so that it fits firmly on the cartridge), then cut the plastic so that the ring comes out 5-7 cm wide. Coat this ring with PVA glue, And in the middle the coolers are glued to the lampshade.

Round lampshades made of threads

Using the same technology, it is possible to produce round and round stylish lampshades. Choose threads of a similar color. Their style is absolutely unimportant - the color is important, the texture is unimportant. Stinks can be shaggy, smooth, curled, thin or thick. Whose view is there? It is best to work with the extra threads of the middle class. It is good to absorb the glue and then, after drying, it is good to trim the shape.

The ball will still be needed. This will be the basis of the lampshade, which sets the shape. The dimensions of the bases are selected for the jars. The threads will need to be glued together; for this you will need PVA glue. Pour it into a container and dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:1.

You can use other glue. It is important that we become clear-sighted after hanging up. This is WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 glue for carpentry. If you are interested in any of these types of glue, read the instructions.

A circle is painted on the balls or balls, which will be slightly smaller in size than the lower lamp socket. On the proximal side we paint more around the lower edge of the lampshade. Now everything is ready, we can start.

We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It’s easier to work by pouring glue into a container - you can put the whole skein in there and just pull the thread. With tube glue, everything is not so easy: you have to coat the sections up to a meter long, reel them in, then coat them again. I'll walk a lot longer. Tse yakscho vikorystuvati not PVA. They will not come out stiff and will not sag or change shape over time, as can happen with thread lampshades on PVA.

When winding threads on a spool, carefully avoid the daubed stake. As soon as they suddenly climbed into the “fenced territory,” we simply put down the threads that form the right (less right) edge. If the thread runs out or you believe there is enough strength, the process can be skipped. The edge of the thread is threaded between the others. That's it. Next, the ball with wound threads is coated with glue again (PVA can be watered) and left until dry (at least 2 additions). To prevent the ball from rolling, use a bowl, saucepan and vikorist as a stand.

The remaining stage is blowing the ball and ball. As the ball has a nipple, it is pressed onto a new thin layer, which is released into the air. The ball is released. With this, you can pull the lamp through the middle and try the lampshade.

The technology is the same, but the external appearance is changing.

Using the described technology, you can use as little as a round lampshade. Straight, tricut, trapezoid-like. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wind threads soaked in glue, braid, sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, you remove the base and the axis and made the lampshade with your own hands. The number of butts in the photo is below.

You can also use sticks. Just wrap the ball with grub fluff and use carpentry glue instead of PVA glue

This paste-like polymer clay is placed in a tube, applied to a bag of frozen milk, then dried and the bag is removed.

Creative self-made shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers

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